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safe sustained egt. temp.

robzombie4551

robzombie4551

robzombie4551
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land of the lost. TAKE YOUR COUNTRY BACK
I installed an egt,in the driver side c/o pipe and took it for a ride to see what it was doing. under full throttle going from 60 to 85 it went to 1,000 like it was a tach. I'm wondering what the safe temp would be if I were to climb an 8 mile grade with a 6,000 lb. camper in july. What would be a safe temp for about ten or fifteen min. staight. It runs like brand new not like day twoand want to keep it that way. Thanks Rob
 
forgot how to start a new thread/hijacking this one.

I went on a week long camping trip and the truck ran hot but didn't overheat. I was running at 220/230 going up hills with the egts at 1/1100.It would come back down if I kept egts at 8/900. I was also wondering if you can fry g/plugs because the next day it would crank for awhile and blow white smoke before starting. Once started it runs fine and all other starts of the day are fine,just the first start of the day is slow. Also I think I'm loosing the p/s pump, making noise at idle and pulsing when I'm on the brake. Is there something I can do to stop running hot when I'm towing. What is the most effective thing I can do. I can't afford multiple solutions right now,Exh/chip/methinj. or something else. It's only getting closer to june and I'll have to pull fancy gap w/family and don't want to blow it up.
 
to a few free mods, first... like pull the Rad, and clean it and the 3 other coolers, REALLY good,, then do the tweak on the stock fan clutch to come in sooner, and maybe swap out the T-stat for a 180 unit.
 
Towing with stock PCM program must be miserable. That would help a lot. What do you mean by fooled boost sensor with steel wool?

I have low volume water pump and 180 T-stat and havent ever seen my gauge go over 190 degrees. Although high volume pump would help you.

The free stuff Dave mentioned is a very good start.
 
I already cleaned the exterior of the rad/condenser/and oil cooler. I will flush the rad put a 180 t-stat in it. I'm wondering if I'm not getting enough fuel which I know in a gas motor will run hot when lean. I made a t/m and run 10lbs. at f/t. But I also turned the boost down to 5 and have the same high egts,at f/t. Is this a fuel or breathing issue? I'm going to replace the d/pipeand c/o pipe. If a heath chip will make all the difference I will bite the bullet and get it before I head to pa,in july. I want to be able to pull fancy gap with no problems.
 
high EGTs are from not burning the fuel in the cylinder, and it escapes out the exhaust valve, so you need to increase boost, not lower. And on the stock PCM you need a boost fooler to do it. So thats why I ask what you meant by a fooler with steel wool? Did you wire the potentiometer in there for a boost fooler?
 
I would do the computer right. They tend to make you miserable with the wrong program. Garbage in Garbage out with boost foolers and other sensor mods.

You need the engine to breathe. Exhaust is the place to start and the snorkel in the fender has to go. You get the best gains from exhaust work. (100 degree air is less volume than 1000 degree air.)

220-230 up hills will crack everything on the engine. (Are you nuts? 215 ECT is the shut it down temp!) Heads, block, precups… Your engine oil is about done at that temp as well. Oil fails you scuff a piston and have to pull out the engine… Ask me how I know.

Unbolt the oil cooler and pull it away from the radiator. Look in awe at the mat that will be there plugging cooling airflow.

A H.O. Water pump, 180 T-stat, a Kennedy Diesel low turn on temp fan clutch, 9 blade 20” fan, new radiator and condenser keeps me cool pulling Payson (The hills never end and 35 MPH flat out.) with a 24’ trailer 13K LBS total. My radiator was plugged internally. With that setup I do not have to let off WOT due to ECT.
 
robzombie4551 said:
I went on a week long camping trip and the truck ran hot but didn't overheat. I was running at 220/230 going up hills with the egts at 1/1100.It would come back down if I kept egts at 8/900. I was also wondering if you can fry g/plugs because the next day it would crank for awhile and blow white smoke before starting. Once started it runs fine and all other starts of the day are fine,just the first start of the day is slow. Also I think I'm loosing the p/s pump, making noise at idle and pulsing when I'm on the brake. Is there something I can do to stop running hot when I'm towing. What is the most effective thing I can do. I can't afford multiple solutions right now,Exh/chip/methinj. or something else. It's only getting closer to june and I'll have to pull fancy gap w/family and don't want to blow it up.
Click to expand...

Anything over 210 makes me worry. 220 is asking for problems, 230+ is making them a reality.

Can't push these so hot, hopefully that white smoke coming out causing hard starts isn't coolant that seeped into the system from a head gasket or crack head/block.

do the fan clutch mod. Its Free. That fan should be ROARING and you will see temps instantly fall (as well as power). I think its up in the Tech Library. If its not it should be.
 
I was doing 70-75 mph, and dropping down to 60-65 uphill. I had to take my foot out of it and stay at 1/4 throttle. It seemed a little better when I took it out of o/d but not much. anything more than 1/2 throttle and egts would go over 1,100.and boost would go to 10lbs. but it wasn't pulling any harder than at 1/4throttle, On the way home it was better,but I had my eyes on the gauges and played the throttle and charged hills when I could.
 
I have 3.42 gears in my CC Dually and I can't pull my 38' TT in OD. I pull in 4th (i have the manual not the auto) and it does great. To me it does even better than the 4.10's that came with the truck. But you have to realize than in OD with 3.42's you just don't have enough torque to try to pull hills. Leave it out of OD while towing and i think your motor will be happier. And take your radiator to a good shop and get them to rebuild and clean it. Mine was spotless outside, but 60% clogged inside. It makes a HUGE difference, and cost less than $100.
 
Oh and if you see black smoke from the exhaust while you are towing, you either need more boost(safe limit is 10-12), or new injectors. Diesels have nothing in common with gas engines, so forget the whole lean/rich theories. Diesels are throttle limited, gassers are air limited.
 
When taking rad out it might be good to find a good radiator shop that can do a real thorough outside clean but also inside flush. They can make it like new and shouldnt cost too much, and the cleaning process could take you 4 hours and not be as good. I think one of my local shops wanted like $50 for a cleaning.
 
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