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Replacing X-over

M

mmcna

Recruit
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Location
land of lincoln
Any hints and tips or things that you would do?
I already plan on a good soaking with PB Blaster a couple of times.
Is there any grounds nearby that would be easier to get at with the X-over out?

Bought a Warpspeed crossover. Maybe I should wait until the ATT arrives? That would probably be a better idea.
 
I don't remember it gaining any huge advantage getting to anything when off but its been a while. - Anti sieze on nuts going back on.

Have you gotten new crush seals / donuts you'll need new ones.
 
Yes I have the new seals. They came with the crossover.

It looks like I might need to use some heat to get the old hardware off.
 
x2 on the hot wrench. The fix after you've broken off a siezed fastener invariably takes far longer than breaking out the torch & applying some heat.
 
PB Blaster now and next several days before you go at them, may have to resort to torch, and when turning them slow steady pressure, on breaker bar and hit hammer against the backside of the breaker bar joint will help "shock" them loose, using a impact gun hits it too hard & fast and tends to snap them, plus with breaker bar you should be able to "feel" how much pressure you are putting on the fastener to know if it's nearing breaking point.

If it moves a little in loosen direction, run to tighten direction squirt a little more PB on it "work it" in and out, threads can sort of work like a tap to break the loose rust free.

Run tap thru the flange before replacing x-over, anti-seize is your friend when you reassemble for next time you have to dis-assemble, how soon before going ATT, might give you more room to work them with the inner fenders out, if leak on x over isn't that bad, could you apply "muffler bandage" until you are ready to do the ATT
 
Well got the X-over out. Only broke one bolt, drilled and tapped it out. Started installing new crossover and I can not seem to get the last bolt in. It seems that the 90 on the drivers side is just a tad overbent. I am going to get some longer bolts and see if I can pull it in.

The downpipe I have is a BD, installed by the previous owner.
 
Good job, MMCNA.

I had a horrible time with the crossover on my Tahoe. Tried to do it at home, was quite a mess with PB Blaster dripping down on me as I tried the breaker bar, torch, etc.

Finally took it to Midas, they ended up snapping off a bunch of bolts with the impact wrench, and had to call in their senior guy to actually use a welding torch to melt the remnants out. They resorted to smaller nuts/bolts which would fit through the now-melted holes.

I still need to do the 'burb. I will likely go with the 'candle trick'. My understanding is that you heat the flange with a torch, and when it's red-hot, apply a beeswax candle to it so that the wax wicks into the threads.

Another option is to try and rent an electric 'nut heater' which uses induction heat to heat the flange red-hot so you can back the bolt out.

-Rob :)
 
Some of the old Forney stick welders came with an accessory similar in results to the induction heater concept. The cables basically went to a handle that has a couple carbon electrodes, one of which can swivel in/out to fit different size nuts. Believe it was called a carbon arc torch??

You plug the cables into your selected amperage, then hold the handle with the electrodes over the nut. Then close it, creating a short across the nut. Presto - almost instant glowing red nut with limited heat transfer into the bolt/stud. For technology that's been around so.. long, they're still very handy & fast in certain situations.
 
Well I finished installing the crossover earlier today. I had to get some longer bolts to help pull the crossover into place, because it was not an exact fit.

PB blaster did the trick for me. I hit once about noon yesterday another time at about 4. Then when out and drove it hard for about 20 min. I figured that the heat from everything in engine bay might help expand the bolts, maybe it helped.

I did what TD suggested and loosened it a little, shot some blaster at it then back and forth repeat, over and over till the stubborn little bolts came out. The bolt I ended up breaking I think I went a little overboard on loosen and tighten sequence, it was a clean break like it was work hardened. But tring to drill out that bolt was a real bear, at least it was on drivers side. Trying to drill at the proper angle on a broke off bolt is no fun.



All in all it went pretty well could have been worse. After I finished that I removed the vacuum pump and installed the shorter belt.

I want to thank everyone here, I did a lot of searching before before I even ordered any parts. It is people posting what they learn when they do a project that helps everyone here in the long run.
 
TurboTahoe said:
Good job, MMCNA.

I had a horrible time with the crossover on my Tahoe. Tried to do it at home, was quite a mess with PB Blaster dripping down on me as I tried the breaker bar, torch, etc.

Finally took it to Midas, they ended up snapping off a bunch of bolts with the impact wrench, and had to call in their senior guy to actually use a welding torch to melt the remnants out. They resorted to smaller nuts/bolts which would fit through the now-melted holes.

I still need to do the 'burb. I will likely go with the 'candle trick'. My understanding is that you heat the flange with a torch, and when it's red-hot, apply a beeswax candle to it so that the wax wicks into the threads.

Another option is to try and rent an electric 'nut heater' which uses induction heat to heat the flange red-hot so you can back the bolt out.

-Rob :)
Click to expand...


Start with a torch and candle, small cheap propane one if you don't have a real one....

Nut heater always sounded cool to me too, but not sure where you'd rent one, or how much.... I'd guess ol' torch works better, but who knows.

If you live in salt areas, there is a great chance they won't come out clean at all, which is probably what will happen. Having a way to cut snapped bolts is a good plan to prevent downtime, especially if no 2nd vehicle to drive.
 
I also found out that the grounds by the down pipe are on their last leg. I bumped it a couple of times while working on the crossover and it started falling apart like old bale twine.

I am going to have to fix that when I am replacing the turbo, hopefully next weekend. It was really bad it was like dust.
 
mmcna said:
I also found out that the grounds by the down pipe are on their last leg. I bumped it a couple of times while working on the crossover and it started falling apart like old bale twine.

I am going to have to fix that when I am replacing the turbo, hopefully next weekend. It was really bad it was like dust.
Click to expand...

After doing that twice in 3 years as it burns up, and causes stalls (on mine anyhow) when it failed, I re-routed mine with doubled up dryer hose cords I had. I used the bolt by the front tire that holds the brake line all. I also added extra grounds from neg to frame on each side there.

It all started when the original frame bolt threads on the frame stripped..... never easy
 
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