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Replacing leaky turbo drain tube.

D

dka99burb

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Location
Reidsville, NC
I have searched and only found where some have used braided line and AN fittings to patch the drain tube. Which looks like a good idea but I was just wondering if I can bend my tube slightly to get the new hose on?
My plate on the block will not come off. I can only assume that it gave a lot of leaking trouble to a mechanic somewhere and he gooped it with something good like JB weld?? I don't want to lift the turbo just to replace 4" of hose! :rolleyes5:
Anyone 'flexed' their tube before? I'm afraid of it being too brittle due to years of heat.
 
The drain tube is bolted to the bottom of the turbo with 2 bolts that can be removed. Be careful not to tear the gasket.
 
I had success on my old '84 Subaru turbo replacing the rubber turbo drain hose that would harden and then leak with a piece of high-temp silicone hose that a buddy who worked as an AP mechanic at Duncan Aviation "acquired" for me back when that stuff was only available to specialty shops for high speed aircraft applications like that. It was very thin-walled reinforced and the silicone hose was flexible enough that I could insert a 4 1/2" piece onto the turbo drain nipple and the block fitting with using only the 2" gap between them and thus avoided pulling the turbo like the manual said to do when replacing the leak-prone rubber drain hose. Along with a section of woven fiberglass insulation to slip over the hose and help reject heat soak and a pair of high quality hose clamps, I never had any problems with the hose leaking after that.
 
I will look again tomorrow. Looked like could be a pita to get to when I looked yesterday. I hope not..:skep:
Thanks for replying to such a simple question.
 
No problem. It's not so much of a PITA if you pull the passenger tire and inner splash guard to get access. If you do pull the drain tube from the bottom of the turbo and tear the gasket, RTV Orange (hi temp exhaust sealant) will work.
 
I used a siicone hose to replace mine. It took a little bit of effort but managed to wiggle it in with both the upper and lower metal tubes in place. Cut the new hose to the same length as the old one, lubricated the the lower metal tube and slipped the hose as far down as possible and worked it back up over the upper.
 
X3,
Cut off the old hose. Lube and slide the new section down and then back up on the turbo drain tube. No block plate removal required - Although it is easier to do so...
 
Paveltolz said:
:rof::rof:

Yeah, I knew how it was going to sound and trust me, I re-wrote it a couple of times so it wouldn't sound even worse but I knew someone would "go there" with it.:eek:

Congratulations. :hihi:
Click to expand...

Hey, what can I say, if you open the door a crack, somebody's bound to step through. It might as well be me as I'm the one usually to do it. Chalk it up to DOMS!:mischievous:
 
be prepared! i worked on the fuel tank drop yesterday, not a lick of oil in sight. thought 'this was going to be the cleanest i have ever been after working under a truck'. wrong! the more oil, the more it gets attracted to me. i have an oil magnet on me somewhere.
X2 on removing wheel, greasing new hose and slipping it on.
 
I guess that's the benefit of having a Suburban, tank's clear in te back away from the engine. If the tank's all oily, then I've got a serious differential leak!
 
I guess that's the benefit of having a Suburban, tank's clear in te back away from the engine. If the tank's all oily, then I've got a serious differential leak!
 
Done. Pulled the tube from the bottom of the turbo to get access. There is only about 1/2" gap between the two tubes!
I ended up using a piece of hydraulic hose. That should hold up!
 
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