Replacing carrier bearing

[RNation]

My carrier bearing has about a 1/2" worth of play, and I'm told that's really bad. To clarify what the bearing is, it's the one in between the 2 sections of drive shaft from the transmission to the rear axle, I just learned this today haha. Anyways I guess that could explain the bad vibrations when the truck gets up and going on the highway.

My questions is, after some google searches it appears that the bearing is pressed on the drive shaft, is that correct? If so does that mean special machinery to get it off and new one on? Midas wanted about $200 to do it. I'd rather save the money, but if it's something that's better left to someone who knows what their doing I'll pay.

Also if it is something that I can do, there's apparently 2 sizes, anyone happen to know which one would be on my truck?

Thanks

 

[3500GMC]

3/4 ton Sub?

Carrier bearing is as you described. They are pressed. Can be done at home with a 'shop press'. Have seen guys use a pipe and a BFH too. Getting the old one off is doable because basically you destroy things until you see 'shaft' The inner race can be scored with an abrasive cut off and then broken off.

 

[RNation]

Well that sucks, haha. I don't have a shop press, and wouldn't know how to use it if I did. So looks like I'll be paying $200. I'll be happy to have the vibrations gone anyways. I think the vibrations already helped mess up the starter.

Oh and it is a 3/4 ton sub, rear wheel drive

 

[Burning oil]

I cannot remember, does the CB ride on a short yoke then attach to the drive longer shafts via ujoints? its been a long time since I did one. Anyway the point is you could do the hard work then bring your new bearing to a shop for them to press on. Then take it back home and assmble the rest.
If you brought it to me I might charge $20-40. One of your better local auto parts store may have a press? Most any alignment shop should also, Just a thought.

Also, for the ujoint removal and install I use a ball joint press and an impact. Its a big hand held "c" clamp looking thing. AutoZone has them in their loner tools. Makes the job about 1/2 hour to R&R joints.

 

[3500GMC]

Yeah there's a slip yoke that you take apart. The CB presses onto that shaft that is splined. Be sure you R+R the same position to keep your ujoints in phase. Good idea to do ujoints while you're at it.

Some CBs have a front and a rear direction too.

 

[RNation]

By the time I saw your posts I had already told the guy to do it. Anyhow the truck doesn't do that awful shaking thing anymore. Ended up being the carrier bearing and 2 tires had broken belts. It was shaking so bad that when I stopped in the morning to get a soda, by the time I'd get to the job the soda was almost flat haha.

Does anyone know off the top of their head the reasoning for the 2 drive shafts rather than 1 that goes the whole length? The back half of the truck is uncharted area for me so this is all new to me.

 

[3500GMC]

Flat soda, ha ha..:hihi:

Critical speed is the buzzwords on d-shaft lenghts, diameters, materials, weights etc.

Too long combined with too skinny = Booom!

Plus a center support gets the angles correct for the ujoint phases.., input output shafts etc.

 

[RNation]

Ahhh gotcha. I figured there was some purpose other than something else to break haha.

Once again thanks for the help everyone

 

[3500GMC]

Still curious, your 'burb a 3/4 or 1/2 ton?

From the dog dishes, guessing 3/4?

I like the ol' 'burbs.

 

[ak diesel driver]

ahem.... read post #3

 

[RNation]

haha, 3/4 ton it is. Not a bad truck, I've been replacing a lot of things over the past year or so. But I think k that's just due to age and previous owners not fixing things properly, haha my grandpa is the number 1 culprit there, he'll jerry rig anything to save himself $5.

 

[3500GMC]

Oh and it is a 3/4 ton sub, rear wheel drive

^^ Oh you mean THIS?? :rolleyes5::skep:

Geesh.