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Replacing 1994 K2500 Hub/Wheel Bearing Assembly

DieselSlug

DieselSlug

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Figured id try a write up on how to do this since there wasn't much out there for me. First i started with removing the plastic center cap.
Next was to loosten the spindle nut , it is a 35mm, however i used a 36mm and it seemed to fit better.
Loosten the lug nuts, then jack up the truck and support with jack stands for safety.
Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off.
Remove spindle nut the rest of the way.
Next is to remove the caliper, it takes a 3/8'' allen wrench, i went out and bought a lisle kit from Sears, comes with 3 common sizes as sockets for $7.99. (Good time to grease sliders and check brake wear)
Prop the caliper out of the way, i had it resting on the top of a cinder block to relieve strain from the rubber line.
There are 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly on the spindle, they are located on the back of the spindle. They are all 15mm in size.
Once they are all removed you are going to have to pry the hub assembly out of the spindle. This can take some time. I used a few crow bars and some large screw drivers. Turning the wheel both ways allows you to get at the front and the rear. You can see the seam where the hub meets the spindle, start by hitting the driver or bar into this seam to force the two apart, once there is a bit of a gap you can grab both sides of the hub assembly and pull it all the way off.
Next is to remove the pressed in studs, sed the rotor on a table with studs facing up, grab a lug nut and thread it on about 1/2 way or over to the stud. Hit lug nut square with hammer several times and it will push the stud out through the back. Remove lug nut and thread on to next stud. Repeat for all 8 studs.
Next we have to get the hub off of the rotor. Grab some pieces of wood, i used two 4x4's and place them so the rotor rests on them like in the last picture.
Continue on next post.........
 

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Once positioned on the blocks of wood grab your small sledge or hammer and hit around the opening on the back of the hub bearing. Continue equally around the bearing and it will drop right off of the rotor. There are reliefs built into the rotor so the hub can fit through it in 4 different positions.
There you have it, ready to get your new hub and repeat backwords!
This was for a '94 Silverado K2500 8600LB GVW without ABS.
 

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make sure you clean the rust out of the hub bore and anti-sieze the heck out of it when you reassemble. It supposed to just be a slip fit.
 
I use the round end of a ball peen hammer on the end of the wheel studs and hit that with a 3 or 4lb. hammer. Before I start I go to the stealer and get raped for new bolts to hold the hub on. That way I can hit the bolts with a hammer to knock the hub off the knuckle. I also shine up the bore for the hub with emery cloth. The part of the hub that goes in the bore gets covered in anti sieze compound as do the bolts.
You were lucky that the bolts came out easy. I have had the bolt heads round off. The socket for the hub bolts needs to be thin wall. A impact socket won't fit .
 
Not to rag on ye,but I sure hope you cleaned them rotors or replaced them?
looks like that one in the pic has been laying in the bush for a couple years!
Are you sure these calipers still move?
 
bk95td said:
I use the round end of a ball peen hammer on the end of the wheel studs and hit that with a 3 or 4lb. hammer. Before I start I go to the stealer and get raped for new bolts to hold the hub on. That way I can hit the bolts with a hammer to knock the hub off the knuckle. I also shine up the bore for the hub with emery cloth. The part of the hub that goes in the bore gets covered in anti sieze compound as do the bolts.
You were lucky that the bolts came out easy. I have had the bolt heads round off. The socket for the hub bolts needs to be thin wall. A impact socket won't fit .
Click to expand...

Same here with the bolts rounding...Not fun. I ended up pulling the spindle off to replace the hubs on both sides. Not fun when that happens.
 
Just went thru this last week, my rotors were junk. Pads were fine though; obviously when changing rotors is such a nightmare they get pad-slapped over and over. Same thing happened as with my 97, I couldn't get the four bolts out in the back. Thin wall socket, 30 gal air compressor at 180psi and a 550ftlb impact gun wouldn't budge them. I knew that a breaker bar would snap the bolts if it didn't round them, and I don't have a heat wrench at home, so I finally gave up and took it to my buddys shop. Where they heated up the bolts, borke a couple of them and replaced all of them with new ones from the stealer. Same thing as before. Used my new rotors and pads, and while it was there I had them throw on my new rear airshocks and a swaybar endlink. Only parts they had to buy were two new calipers, mine were beat. $600 later I've got my truck back but I can't sit in it because my backside still hurts. I hate paying someone else to do stuff for me!!
 
I'm really glad they said the wheel hub assemblies were still good, I figured I'd be replacing those at $250 a whack. I've gone through so many with my 97, it's definitely the weak link in these frontends. At least it is when you carry a 950lb snowplow.
 
bk95td said:
I use the round end of a ball peen hammer on the end of the wheel studs and hit that with a 3 or 4lb. hammer. Before I start I go to the stealer and get raped for new bolts to hold the hub on. That way I can hit the bolts with a hammer to knock the hub off the knuckle. I also shine up the bore for the hub with emery cloth. The part of the hub that goes in the bore gets covered in anti sieze compound as do the bolts.
You were lucky that the bolts came out easy. I have had the bolt heads round off. The socket for the hub bolts needs to be thin wall. A impact socket won't fit .
Click to expand...
I actually did strip one! But somehow got it off. I used a regular 1/2 inch drive 15mm socket. The CV shaft gets in the way a little..
 
bison said:
Not to rag on ye,but I sure hope you cleaned them rotors or replaced them?
looks like that one in the pic has been laying in the bush for a couple years!
Are you sure these calipers still move?
Click to expand...

Was wondering how to clean them. That rotor is normal looking for up here. The truck sat for almost a month from when i got it towed, till i started tearing into it. That rotor is sadly not even 1 year old!!! And it was a premium...
 
DieselSlug said:
Was wondering how to clean them. That rotor is normal looking for up here. The truck sat for almost a month from when i got it towed, till i started tearing into it. That rotor is sadly not even 1 year old!!! And it was a premium...
Click to expand...
That damn road salt ain't kind to metal, is it?
A steel brush on the angle grinder will clean them up.I usually turned these rotors in my lathe but for the price of new ones it ain't worth it.
I did replace the brakes on the my 95 the other day.
One wheel was dragging(stuck caliper)The rotor was blue and warped.

A set of new rotors $44,pads $50 and calipers $ 45 was just shy of $140

I never had a hub go bad yet on any of my 3 trucks,see sig for milage.
 
This thread was moved into the drivetrain section of the forum. Replacing 1994 K2500 Hub/Wheel Bearing Assembly should be the same whether it is a 6.5 diesel, or a gasser.
 
Dude. Thank you so much for this post. I am going through this right now, trying to get the rotor off so I can replace the axle. PIA!
 
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