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Remote unlock quit

btfarm

btfarm

America First!
Messages
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Location
Sandwich, Illinois
My remote stopped unlocking the doors. Lock works fine but no unlock. It was acting 'reluctant' the last couple of days then quit today. The 10A fuse looks fine though. Ideas?
 
Any chance it might be time for a battery Mike? I have also had to take it apart and run an eraser over the contact points before.
 
I replaced the battery a couple of weeks ago Bill but didn't do anything with the contacts. I tried my 'unused' #2 remote tonight and it was the same. It locks but no unlock. I think there is a relay in there somewhere. I guess it would be behind the dash side fuse panel. The door switch unlocks fine.
 
btfarm said:
I replaced the battery a couple of weeks ago Bill but didn't do anything with the contacts. I tried my 'unused' #2 remote tonight and it was the same. It locks but no unlock. I think there is a relay in there somewhere. I guess it would be behind the dash side fuse panel. The door switch unlocks fine.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty certain there is a fuse for the remote locks Mike, I was going through my fuse box the other morning checking out my truck and I think I remember seeing a couple.
 
8100 Power said:
I'm pretty certain there is a fuse for the remote locks Mike, I was going through my fuse box the other morning checking out my truck and I think I remember seeing a couple.
Click to expand...
The fuse is good Jeff. I would think the switch on the door wouldn't work either and it still does.
 
When you click the door switch is it sluggish or hesitant at all? Does it fail to unlock with the remote when you are standing right next to the truck?

I will bump this along to David as I know he's intimately familiar with the PDL wiring.
 
Mike, its more likely a passenger door module issue. The pdm is the receiver for the keyless entry and it is responsible for sending the class 2 data to the bcm. The bcm then tells the appropriate module how to act. Meaning, if you only press the unlock once it will tell only the drivers module to unlock, two presses means that it sends to both the ddm, and pdm plus the bcm grounds the rear door relays to unlock them if you have a crew cab or tahoe. I would be looking at the pdm. They are not overly common, but have done a few over the years. If you can access a tech 2 you might have codes stored in the pdm and it may lead you to the issue.
 
Thanks Joe. Unfortunately I have no tech 2 access anywhere around here except the dealer but I do need to have my CD player reflashed to the latest TSB anyhow so I can get that done at the same time. Where are the modules and is it expensive to replace one or both?
 
The module and the door lock and power window switches are integrated units, and yes are very pricey. They need to be flashed with a tech 2 and door panel removal is required to gain access and for replacement.
 
The only relay it could be is the 25 amp circuit breaker on the dash box, looks like a fuse but silver in color iirc. The module is recieving power and working otherwise so I am doubtful its a power ground issue.
 
I just went out and it unlocked on the 3rd press then relocked on the 3rd press. WTF? I didn't try it again though. Disconnect batteries?
 
Try it Mike, the module might just be screwy. I wish we were closer so I can look at it for ya. Once you disconnect both batteries, touch the positive and negative CABLES together for a couple seconds on both sides. MAKE SURE BOTH BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED FIRST PLEASE:) This basically closes the circuit from positive to ground and discharges the capacitors and what not in all the modules.
 
Well whadda ya know...

I disconnected the batteries, jumpered drivers side then jumpered pass side, held both jumped for about 5 secs, hooked 'em back up and Lo & behold... the remote works as normal. For now anyway.
I was kinda surprised to get a spark when I hooked the first battery back up. Is that normal? I figured I would have discharged all the capacitors so no spark. But what do I know...
 
After a couple of days of the remote working again it quit and I tried the battery disconnect trick again. This time no luck. I stopped at a dealer tonight and the BCM shows no codes. He did get it to work a couple of times after the Tech II was disconnected but it didn't last long. He screwed around with it for awhile but it's obvious they'll have to get into the door to see what's wrong. I don't have the spare $ right now to do anything about it so I'll have to hold off.
 
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