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Refreshing a 28 mt

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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alaska
So I need to freshen up the starter on my dually so I yanked it out and tore into it. It mainly needs a solenoid butit cheaper to buy a reman starter at the parts store tthan a solenoid. So I ordered 3 and a kit which includes bearings orings and brushes. All told about $150ish in parts. I have 5-6 of these starters so I plan on having at least 3 working starters. Most remans are garbage so I prefer to fix the OEM ones myself. I have 306k on my original starter in my 96, the only thing I did to it was at about 180k I pulled it apart and repacked the bearings. I was prepared to put brushes in it but they were fine.
 
Here's all the starter parts cleaned up waiting for new parts to come in. Also I might mention here the number one killer of starters is too much cranking without letting it cool. A good running 6.5 shouldn't need that much cranking so unless you like replacing starters fix it so it starts better.
 

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Chuck up and indicate the armature in the lathe. True it up while you have it torn down.

Contour your new brushes to the commutator to ease break in and further erosion or the copper segments.
 
So as I was perusing thru the the manual tonight while putting it back together I noticed it said NOT to turn the armature. Evidently there's not hardly anything there to turn off. It also said not to repack the bearings which I did but I think they're worried about getting crud in them or filling them too full and flinging grease all around in the electrical area. Anyway as I was putting it back together I noticed one of he brushes felt different than the others when you depressed it. I decided to put new brushes in it and discovered I could barely get the old one out. Evidently the spring or the holder was arcing to the bare brush wire next to it. The inside of the brush holder was all pitted and the bumps made the holder too small so I filed it down and everything felt good. The new brushes had insulation on all the brush wires.
 

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What's your trick for prying out the bearing dust shields without boogering them up?

FYI if you need to true up the commutator, it won't hurt a thing as long as you don't get carried away.
 
those were just the plastic covered ones a sharp pick with a fine point popped them right out. the bearing by the gear reduction is shielded metal covered so no go there without a lot of effort. Specs on the armature were .oo8 was the most you could let it wear even. Mine looked pretty good so I left it to have longer wear life.
 
couple of things you should do while it is apart is make sure you don't have any continuity from the copper where the brushes ride to any part of the steel areas. if you do it's junk. that test isn't foolproof but gives an idea. usually when the starter is overheated it cooks the insulation off the copper. you can do the same test for the fields.
also where the brushes ride you should clean out the grooves with a small screwdriver or similar tool, don't gouge out material tho, just a light pressure is all you should use.
 
if your starter hasn't been cooked you can do a basic freshen up for less than $100 which would include solenoid and a small parts kit. I bought 3 solenoids and a small parts kit for about $175 and I should be able to get 3 out of my 6 starters working.
armatures are about $40 didn't prices the fields
 
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