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Rear Main Replacement

DieselSlug

DieselSlug

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Fabius, NY
Well, looking to replace the rear main on my new engine. It has signs of seepage down the back of the oil pan. I know it is a one piece design, i can get a felpro for about 28 bucks, however i am not dis assembling the bottom end. I mean not taking the crank out. Is it possible to replace the rear main whith the crank still in the block???
 
Ya gotta remove the transmission and flywheel and then carefully pry out the old seal. Then install a new one. Make sure everything is clean and there are no burrs to damage the new seal--
 
vail426 said:
Wow-you got the engine out in 14 minutes!:hail:
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:D:D:D No, it was never in the truck to begin with, i was just saying that all i need to do is take the fly wheel off. I wish i was that quick the truck would be done already:thumbsup:

Bison, i think it looks as if it a little of both. Im just sick of stupid oil leaks.....
 
When I got my engine back from the machine shop, I noticed the main seal was crooked. Stupid me thought it was installed wrong, so I removed it and put in a new one. Turns out all I needed to do was tap it in the rest of the way.

That said, I removed it by putting a hole in the metal part with a small screwdriver, then used a Harbor Freight seal puller to take it out. Then I used the old seal as a driver to install the new one. Nobody had a main seal "press" big enough to fit the honkin' big seal.

If it's a new engine, are you sure it's not the oil they put on the seal when they installed it? If the engine hasn't been run or primed, how does the oil get out the rear main seal?
 
No, its not a new engine, check out my thread on resurecting the new engine. Its got 90k miles on it....
 
Anybody ever replace one using the Kent moore install tool ? I have it but have not tried it yet. I am yanking my motor out today to replace the seal.
 
I used the GM tool is it the same? Borrowed it from a nice dealer. Had to give copy of credit card on an invoice for the purchase of the tool if I did not return it and my contact information. Probably was willing to do it since they rarely if ever used it due to age of 6.5.

The tool works just like a bolt on press. Clean and lube up surface and seal then crank in the screw. It presses it in square, smooth, and even depth easy as pie. Just something I feel better using on such an important seal with my limited experience putting in seals.
 
I also bought the Kent-Moore tool off of E-Gay. I haven't used it yet. According to the GM manual it sets the depth slightly different from original to get a fresh surface to seal on. I wouldn't feel comfortable just tapping it in with a hammer. If the engine is on a stand , remove the pan[should peek anyhow] and remove the rear bearing cap. The seal will pull out with your fingers than and no possible damage to the seal surface. Install the new seal with the rear main bearing cap in place and re-torqued.
If you watch e-gay for a while the installers do go as cheap as $25 or less.
 
DieselCash said:
Kent Moore J-39084, there is one on ebay that sold for $30, new is around $236
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New is $236? OUCH!!!!

Can anybody tell me what the OD and ID of the seal is? The rear main seal in the old I-6 motors used in the Toyota Landcruisers is just the right size that a PVC pipe fitting makes a good driver. Maybe there's something similar to be found that will make an inexpensive installer.

Don
 
I also used the Kent Moore tool, i purchased it off ebay for 38 bucks, used it worked good. 25K later and no rear main leaks yet. Sold the tool for 30, was worth the 8 bucks making sure it was correct depth.
 
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