Rear Main Leak?

[Matt Bachand]

I have oil mainly around my Starter, and around the inspection cover. I can't remove that cover as my xover is in the way.

I don't see any signs of it forward at all. The oil pan is dry on the sides. (and brand new)

The other spot I can think is the rounded back of the pan, but I can't see it not leak and start leaking in a year? I used Permatex.

Either way. I need to get a new crossover and donuts to remove the inspection cover. And I want to upgrade.

Who sells a good one? I heard Heaths is chincy. My winters won't tolerate chincy. I'd like a SS one.

Also, I want to use SS hardware so I can remove it if I have too.

:grouphug:
Please discuss my truck with me guys! Its time to give her some lovin...

:idea:

Any tips / suggestions about the xover or possible leaks please share.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

 

[Matt Bachand]

Oil adapter rings have been changed by me about 2-3 years ago. Its uniformly wet, only drippies are hanging off the starter and those 2 tranny lines.

Perfect double whammy shot also shows the crossover BOO that I want to replace. Them bolts aren't going to come out nicely. I can guarantee that with everything I own.

 

[Matt Bachand]

SS Diesel sells a SS Xover, 2 piece, for 99 bux, not too bad...

Is this my only option here?

 

[bk95td]

Any leak on the top of the engine or in the valley ends up on the starter and dripping out of the torque converter cover. Valve covers and oil pump drive are suspect or maybe oil pressure sender.
Hearthrob makes the stainless pipes for ss diesel supply. Hearthrob may have a dealer in your area. J C Whitney also sells hearthrob. When I get home from work I can send a link to their site. It has all the dealers. You can get the stainless bolts from fastenal.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Thanks

If you have the specs on the bolts please let me know.

SSD does sell the donuts and flanges, so Maybe I should just get from him. It was a big pain finding those donuts locally, And having 2 extra flanges for 5 bux each would take alot of pressure off of removing the old ones???

 

[Matt Bachand]

My valley is soaked atop the engine...I wonder if its diesel... I didn't smell diesel on it... OPS? do they leak?

My FFM is covered in crap as is my valley.

I need to get in there and diagnose. Good time to FTB. Especially because I have my new FFM already.

 

[bk95td]

I get the donuts at napa. I have that number at home too. Just bought 3 yesterday. The bolts are M10 x 1.5 x 40 or 50mm A8 stainless. I'd have to dig through alot of slips to get the fastenal numbers.

 

[Matt Bachand]

I get the donuts at napa. I have that number at home too. Just bought 3 yesterday. The bolts are M10 x 1.5 x 40 or 50mm A8 stainless. I'd have to dig through alot of slips to get the fastenal numbers.

Those are the numbers I wanted, not the p/n.

So, this will be assuming my bolts come out?

I see a stud kit, but I really want stainless.

Do you order Napa donut for a different application than 6.5? Last time I was there I had to mix n match.. P/N didn't match actual.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Ordered up the FTB Fittings, New OPS and ext hose.

Its not dripping enough to get on the ground, probably because it sits in the valley until i'm driving and gets blown out.

I wonder if my T-Barb is leaking from when I added fuel pressure gauge... I think i used cheap clamps knowing I was FTB'ing.

Do they make a 1 piece Brass T-Barb 3/8?

 

[ak diesel driver]

other possibility is the IP leaking oil

 

[Matt Bachand]

other possibility is the IP leaking oil

From what I could see IP looked dry... I'll get into it next weekend if all my goodies arrive by then. Unless fate has other plans of course.

Do they make a 1 piece T with barbs on all 3 sides? My thread sealed self made U is leaking under truck slightly. I need to fix that, and that may be the issue under the intake where I have another unit like that.

My IP was replaced warranty at 40k, so it has 110k on it, I owned it since 85k, Started using additive religiously probably at 90k.

Now I'm hammering on miles lately ....

 

[Matt Bachand]

I get the donuts at napa. I have that number at home too. Just bought 3 yesterday. The bolts are M10 x 1.5 x 40 or 50mm A8 stainless. I'd have to dig through alot of slips to get the fastenal numbers.

So what usually happens when someone in the salt belt goes to drop the xover? Are these going to come out, or is there even enough room to cut in there?

 

[Acesneights1]

Get the flowmaster crossover/down pipe kit from Summit. It's way better quality than anyone elses and way cheaper. I got the studs from SS but they can be had cheaper from a good HELP! rack. Donuts are a PIA. for some reason auto parts stores always give me the ones for a 6.2. I got them from the stealer last time. Also not sure if there is one on the starter side but on drivers side of my motor the oil was leaking from the galley plug just above the oil cooler lines.

 

[Acesneights1]

So what usually happens when someone in the salt belt goes to drop the xover? Are these going to come out, or is there even enough room to cut in there?

Have some drill bits and taps ready.
Better yet go on eBay ahead of time and buy new manifolds...

 

[Acesneights1]

Powerwash and degrease. go to highest point of leak. it could be your valve covers running down the back of the block. Typical.

 

[bk95td]

Exhaust donut part number:Fel-Pro 60718 fits:262,305,350,350lpg and 395 engines.
The studs and springs are a pia and not necessary. There is a very slim chance that the bolts will come out of the manifold. Highly unlikely without a torch to heat the manifold red hot before trying. I have only had to drill one bolt out. I usually end up welding a nut to the broken off bolt. Sometimes several times before it will let go. I heat to red hot every time after welding the nut on. A small wirefeed welder works great to weld the nuts on. The weld won't stick to the manifolds.I chase the threads or run a tap through them to clean all the rust out. I anti-sieze the piss out of the stainless bolts before they go in.
Here's the link to hearthrob. They should have the stainless flanges also. I go there in person because it's only 25 miles away http://www.heartthrobexhaustinc.com/

 

[Matt Bachand]

Now I'm starting to think twice about it...

 

[bk95td]

You could buy the crossover and have a exhaust shop install it. They deal with the rust every day. It's a whole lot easier to work on with the truck on a hoist. I did end up pulling the passenger side manifold off :nonodn the 92 to get the broken bolts out after having some molten metal go in my sleeve and give me a good whiff of burning flesh:mad2::mad2:

 

[3500GMC]

Here's what Autozombie has for donuts. I was floored when I saw they were made in the States. They fit nice.

#60718

 

[Matt Bachand]

You could buy the crossover and have a exhaust shop install it. They deal with the rust every day. It's a whole lot easier to work on with the truck on a hoist. I did end up pulling the passenger side manifold off :nonodn the 92 to get the broken bolts out after having some molten metal go in my sleeve and give me a good whiff of burning flesh:mad2::mad2:

I agree, but my truck barely fits IN most bays, let alone them lift it...

I know a few that have a 'truck bay' with the drive on lift, and that works fine, but it always costs me 3 - 400 .... And I use to work there!

Then the places HATE when you bring parts so they don't rape you on markup.....

I actually was going to order a xover when I ordered my gauges from Kennedy, and he told me on the phone its not worth it in his opinion and didn't sell me one....

Maybe I'll leave it....

I cut off my gay looking U that was made up of brass pieces that had a weep, and hardlined my Racor directly to the tank feed.... No more f'in around.

That solved the small weep I had pre Filter, however I never noticed any driveablility issues, but I lost the ablity to drain water out of my racor by using the prime button.

Works like a damn champ now.

When I bled my FFM, the Small excess fuel dripped down the back and down my starter like all the rest.

I'm really thinking its fuel, not oil, just black as Obama by the time it gets down there.

So its probably FFM, or my other pieced together barb T (remember I just cut out one under truck do to leaking)...

Either way, I will rebuild my FFM I have here thats FTB'd, and my fittings and stuff should be here for next weekend.

Hopefully I'll get FTB and FFM resolved.

I may move my FFM on the firewall like big bad Bison did.

I don't want to have to extend my Factory heater / WIF wires though. Thats just more spots down the road that WILL fail.

I'm also not using any apparent oil, but then again its not leaking bad enough to ever make the pavement where I park, at home or at the customers houses (which is why I'm so anal about leaks)... When this thing was parking at full blown job sites, I couldn't have cared less if it leaked 1/2 gallon a day... but Pisses me off to leave a nice house with a nice driveway and my damn truck has to mark its territory...

Everynow and again when I park Downhill good grade (which I HATE parking on hills), it takes a while, and tranny fluid starts to leak from somewhere.... Then it doesn't do it for 6 months as I try to avoid nose down, sometimes I can't , but sometimes it doesn't leak...

Who knows.

Chit chat guys, suggest ideas... shoot the shit... my thread, I can do what I want, and so can you!:BDH: