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Rear diff swap question

Do you mean a SF as in semi floater. G80 is just the locker a Gov lock I think or semi locking limited slip differential. Mine has a G80 and slips a bunch then will lock occasionally. If you have a 8600 GVWR? are sure its not a FF rear end? My 97 has a FF. Their are several builds of 14 bolt rear ends though so I aint saying its suppose to be anything.

If you want to swap out entire axle I think it would have to be a 3/4 ton FF to match the spring perches. Might consider a true 1 ton and reweld new spring perches to get the wider stance I think is doable. There is some info on pirate 4x4 dot com 's 14 bolt bible on different model 14 bolt versions.

There was a post someone said late model 8.1 gas trucks have a disc brake axle you could reweld perches on but then proably have to redo driveshaft to get u joints to work.
 
To get a GMT 400 14 bolt FF rear axle under there I would say maybe brake lines would be the main issue. Spring perches are the same on the one ton.

Look for a SRW 3500 with 3.5" wide drums for the best there is. Those trucks had a bigger booster too iirc. brake line fittings MIGHT be different, U joints should be the same I would think. If not get a slip yoke and drive line from 3500 NV4500 w/ same chassis. There is a very good chance you will end up with 4.10 gears in the donor axle.
 
I would say the yoke and brake lines are the only possible issue. I would measure perches before buying, as I bet the less common chassis cab 14 bolt will differ.
 
Oops forgot about the 1 ton single wheels that should bolt right up for perches. Again the variations of the 14 bolt are many.

What are you wanting with the 1 ton rear end? The full floating axle, the stance of the wider hubs, or better brakes?
 
With his increased power and the pics of what he tows I'd bet he is worried about grenading the rear end with high heat and load. Brakes are a bonus. The rear axles should have the same "stance", with hub caps no one will know which axle he has.
 
schiker said:
Oops forgot about the 1 ton single wheels that should bolt right up for perches. Again the variations of the 14 bolt are many.

What are you wanting with the 1 ton rear end? The full floating axle, the stance of the wider hubs, or better brakes?
Click to expand...

I have a lot of weight own the rear end when loaded and I can put enough torq on it that mine is heating up a bit, the ton FF will carry the weight better me thinks...

And I have it full of dino 90w (I think) now, I don't have a rear end in mind yet, just planning to look for one..

I also have the build code here and it doesn't say anything about FF axle, I don't know what the RPO code is for the FF axles.
 

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I though the rears are the same between the one ton Srw and 3/4 ton trucks? Aren't they just 14bolt full floaters?

My truck is a 3/4 8,600lb gvwr and has a 14bolt ff with 4.10s, same as my buddy's 2000 1tone srw
 
If this helps per my RPO codes;

G80 OSITRACTION LIMITED SLIP

C7A GVW RATING 10,000 LBS

GT5 AXLE REAR 4.10 RATIO

My truck rear diff gets hot when I tow heavy.

These rolling hills kill my truck. It maxes out all my temps to include rear end, trans, EGT, and engine coolant.

Outside of running a GM8 and K47 my truck is rolling stock.

I have not got up to your weights of towing.
 
I know about the hills in your area, drove OTR many years, we will see how she does in a few months in the heat. I am making some changes right now and next week I will be pulling the trailer up & down the road tuning it so I will know a little more later.
 
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