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quick question fan clutch

you should hear it when it fires off. If it is more than 5 years old, it is no longer good.
 
Well thank u very much on that so thats good i have a much bigger problem at the moment now harmonic balancer has apperently been split at the rubber all the way around heads of bolts are beat to hell cheapest one i can find is 300 bucks at oriellys any suggestions bc i dont have that kind of cash right now
 
Have you checked out rock auto? We have a post on here someplace for a discount code. I always check out amazon for pricing also.

My fan clutch has been bad for many years. Just drive by the temp gauge. I never let mine get above 200F.
Change it out when you have the funds.
 
Kool deal ill look more into it thanks again im calling it a night ill get back with yall tomorrow. Thanks again
 
Im sure it is ive been hearing a knocking sound so when the water pump went to leaking yesterday i assumed that was the knocking sound boy was i wrong
 
"Heads of bolts are beat to hell"?

Is it the balancer or the pulley?
 
DieselCash said:
you should hear it when it fires off. If it is more than 5 years old, it is no longer good.
Click to expand...
I personally don't buy into the whole if it's 5 years old it's bad myself. Mine is almost 6, and still locks in just as solid as it did the day I put it on. If it's leaking around the spring, garbage, if it doesn't engage cold garbage, if it won't couple in when it's HOT out idling, garbage, but they don't all go in 5 years. Now if it's 10 years old or 75K miles, then I would say change it, but on the other hand I have had clutches run for 150K miles that still locked in no problems. To me the biggest indicator is when it is cold, try and turn it by hand. If it moves easily, it's garbage, if it has a good bit of resistance to it, then it is probably still good.
 
Ok so the pulley has the rubber correct the rubber split all the way around in middle of pulley
 
Bad BowTie said:
Ok so the pulley has the rubber correct the rubber split all the way around in middle of pulley
Click to expand...
They both have rubber in them, and if ones bad, you should do both. Rockauto has them in the DORMAN brand for about $81 + shipping.
Bad BowTie said:
Cool deal it does have resistance it doea not spin easily
Click to expand...
If your already doing a water pump, I would do the 2000 model year pump with a spin on fan clutch, and put in a new fan clutch. The fan clutch should have alot of resistance to it when you try and spin it, not just some.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
I personally don't buy into the whole if it's 5 years old it's bad myself. Mine is almost 6, and still locks in just as solid as it did the day I put it on. If it's leaking around the spring, garbage, if it doesn't engage cold garbage, if it won't couple in when it's HOT out idling, garbage, but they don't all go in 5 years. Now if it's 10 years old or 75K miles, then I would say change it, but on the other hand I have had clutches run for 150K miles that still locked in no problems. To me the biggest indicator is when it is cold, try and turn it by hand. If it moves easily, it's garbage, if it has a good bit of resistance to it, then it is probably still good.
Click to expand...

If it was locked in hot it will still be locked in cold. If it was freewheeling when the engine was turned off it will want to freewheel when cold. If the leak out hole is in a position to allow the silicone to leak back into the working chamber it will want to be locked in cold. This is what makes morning sickness appear random.

5 years is biased off advice on a fan clutch OEM website saying they loose 200 RPM per year. I am not clear if this is assumed 10K-15K miles per year. It is clear the silicone fluid breaks down and the clutch does wear. This is a grey area to tell if the clutch is good or not. Heat and use are likely factors.

A good clear way to tell the clutch is shot is if it is covered in it's own silicone fluid showing up as a caked on dirt. Leaks around the spring, bearing or porous body. No silicone working fluid because it leaked out = not working clutch.

Another clear cut test is the bearing - grab fan: does the fan wobble on the clutch bearings?
 
Bad BowTie said:
Well thank u very much on that so thats good i have a much bigger problem at the moment now harmonic balancer has apperently been split at the rubber all the way around heads of bolts are beat to hell cheapest one i can find is 300 bucks at oriellys any suggestions bc i dont have that kind of cash right now
Click to expand...

Seriously call a GM dealer as their prices are better than that. Even better if you have a wholesale account as the harmonic damper is like $99.00. I don't think the pulley was much more, again wholesale - retail is more. And it's been a few years since I got one from the dealer.

Dorman has a bad rep for not lasting very long.
 
If you are gonna spend 3 bills at orielly's, IMO you may as well spend the rest and get a fluidamper from Leroy. Just my opinion though. The pulley was 69 bucks at Napa a few years ago. 300 is way to much for HB.
 
I need to order a new fan clutch as well. I reused the my old one when I did my engine swap. That's going on 5 years now, and may be oldest part on truck. It might be only thing I haven't taken apart, and I'll bet it came from factory. It passes Ferm's tests still, but now that I have been reading this thread its gonna die soon. Murphy's law.
 
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