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quick oil drain valve and remote / bypass oil filtration

VW_Lupo_TD

VW_Lupo_TD

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i heard mention of this before here, i think from Unit45xx himself.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

F101N-2.jpg


anyone sporting one of these ?

opinions ? comments ? worth it ?

my goal(s):
- ultraclean oil changes (no spills, drips or other shenanigans) by attaching oil drain pan, canister whatever directly to the nipple while oil is hot

maybe i have to go with a remote oil filter / bypass in addition to that, since even when you drain all the oil, you cannot really take of the oil filter without making a mess (even though i drill a 5mm hole into the filter when oil is still hot) and drain that for at least 30 mins before taking it off also.

any chance any one is running something like this ?
http://heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1639/

106400_3.jpg

what do you guys think ?

rgds
 
I want both of those but need some money. I have more important mods to get first. Like exhaust, gauges, and turbo master! :thumbsup:
 
I have the Fumoto Valve. It is a great piece for the $25.00 I spent. Be sure to get the one with the nipple (N-Series). This way you can add all the 3/8 hose you need to get the used oil where you want it. The only additions I made to it was a 3/8 vacuum cap to cover the nipple to keep it clean and two spring clamps. One to hold the vacuum cap on securely and the other to put on the body of the valve, just as a little extra safety to make sure the valve never opens accidentally. The only draw back is the oil drains slowly. During this draining time I usually grease the front suspension and come back afterward, so not really a big deal. If you plan on doing any UOA's this is the easiest way to collect your oil sample.
 
awesome recommendation on the cover and the spring clamp.

i wait and drain my oil for at least an hour or so even without using a fumoto valve (i really really want as much of the old crap out of there as I can) so it does not matter that it takes time, as long as it does not hold any crap back that normally would flow out with the old oil.

UOA = used oil analysis i am assuming. another benefit i guess.

any chance you would like to disclose the brand and source of the vacuum hose cap and spring clamp which fits good - that would be great.
also wondering of you got yours at the website mentioned here or some other place ?
 
ok, i watched the FS2500 videos and if you get that then you pretty much do not need the fumoto valve.
 
VW_Lupo_TD said:
UOA = used oil analysis i am assuming. another benefit i guess.

any chance you would like to disclose the brand and source of the vacuum hose cap and spring clamp which fits good - that would be great.
also wondering of you got yours at the website mentioned here or some other place ?
Click to expand...

The vacuum caps and the spring clamps were picked up at Auto Zone or Pep Boys. They were both found in the section of the store that has all the red packages marked HELP. I did not get my valve through the mentioned vendor but I am sure they would be a good choice.

VW_Lupo_TD said:
ok, i watched the FS2500 videos and if you get that then you pretty much do not need the fumoto valve.
Click to expand...

The FS2500 looks like an oil sample would be easy to get. I still think you would have to pull the drain plug which could still be messy.
You might want to send RI Chevy Silveradoman a PM if he does not see this. He has pictures of his FS2500 system in his garage.
 
I have the fumoto on the truck but not the burb, & have mixed feelings on it cleaner/easier yes to drain oil/take samples, takes forever to drain with it, due to the way it mounts in the pan always leaves more dirty oil in the pan that a std plug does.

As for the FS2500 video goes, lets say it's a good video, I have FS2500 on the burb, oil is just as black as without it, but I'm only on my 2nd complete oil change with it and 1st FS2500 filter maybe 15K since installing it, oil samples were very similar to sample I see on my Amsoil bypass filtration kit, on my "to do list" this week is order a replacement FS2500 element and do a regular oil change on the truck, FS2500 says it takes 1 oil cycle to "clean" the oil, I've done 2 oil changes approx 7500 mile interval with new engine filts and oil, when I get new FS2500 filt I'll do both filts and oil. So far what I see is no better/worse than the Amsoil bypass setup.
 
I recall when Matuva did his bypass filter his flushed his system oil system till it came clean. I wonder how long/many miles it stayed clean.
 
On the Burb I drained it for 3 days until no more oil came out the pan and parked it on grade so oil would drain to the removed/open drain plug hole, then put a new oil cooler & new Lube specialist lines on it so about as clean as I could get it. Which is why I was so surprised after all the sales literature I had seen on the FS2500 that oil within a day or so was dirty as any regular engine oil change was.
 
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Turbine Doc said:
On the Burb I drained it for 3 days until no more oil came out the pan and parked it on grade so oil would drain to the removed/open drain plug hole, then put a new oil cooler & new Lube specialist lines on it so about as clean as I could get it. Which is why I was so surprised after all the sales literature I had seen on the FS2500 that oil within a day or so was dirty as any regular engine oil change was.
Click to expand...

I know what you mean. I did the same thing when I put in my bypass and lube spec oil cooler and the new oil was dirty almost immediately. When Matuva did his he filled it w/ fresh oil ran it till it was up to temp and drained it a couple of times. He said it was crystal clear. I'm just wondering how long it lasted.
 
Turbine Doc said:
On the Burb I drained it for 3 days until no more oil came out the pan and parked it on grade so oil would drain to the removed/open drain plug hole, then put a new oil cooler & new Lube specialist lines on it so about as clean as I could get it. Which is why I was so surprised after all the sales literature I had seen on the FS2500 that oil within a day or so was dirty as any regular engine oil change was.
Click to expand...

What system did Heath have that blew a seam and he lost an engine due to it?
 
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