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Question ref head removal

S

Steeveo

New Member
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Location
Newfoundland
Hello all,
Found this site because I have to pull my heads on my 98 z71 extended cab.
Been going through some antifreeze for a while now and been putting it off. Can't smell antifreeze through the exhaust and nothing showing in the oil. Just pukin' out the overflow bottle.
When I found the site I read thru all the posts I could find relating to head removal. The posts and advice have been great and Simon's thread was a big help.
One question that I have not figured out yet is the removal of the AC pump. From the looks of it, It would have to have some parts/lines removed in order for it to be pushed out of the way and lay over the fender. What needs to be done?
I will be starting after work tomorrow and pretty much have dedicated the weekend for this job. Just keeping my fingers crossed that it is just a worn out gasket at 340,000 KMs.
Any help would be great.
 
Unhook electrical connections. Pull 4 vertical bolts. Lift compressor off of bracket and lay to the side with lines still attached.

Then unbolt the bracket from the head and block.
 
Thanks. I was looking at the pipe that is attached at the the top of the compressor. Does this have to come off?
 
Do you plan on venting the system or are you trying to not have to charge the system afterwards? If you are trying to keep the charge you can carefully after removing the electrical connections lay the A/C compressor over to 1 side. When you reinstall the compressor, I like to partially torque the compressor in stages before going to final torque in "criss-cross pattern" so the housing seal isn't stressed with binding front of compressor half to rear compressor half, in full torque on a single fastener.
 
I had hoped not to have to recharge......and as it turns out it is laying over to the side and out of the way. Pretty much have it all back together. Had a lot of issues with the exhaust manifolds. Ended up having to take them out with the heads and snip the bolts/studs off with a torch on the turbo side. Did the same on the Driver's side but the came out with an impact after they our on the bench. Heads did not look so good in the area where the gasket let go, so I located another set, cleaned them up and installed them. Mine were cracked between every valve. I know that peeps here claim that it is okay, but the set I located were good.
I left it for the night just getting it back together to the point of completing getting the fuel injection lines back on. It is a rather large job, and having the truck living in Newfoundland all it's life really adds to the task......Salt and Cold = Rust and Newfoundland Weld.
Going back at it in the am an hope to have it back on the road in the afternoon.
Thanks for the notes.
 
I hear ya on the manifolds bro... we live in heavily salted area here and I plow to boot... it flat out stinks. It is worse thanw welded because the heads are garbage to start with... Every single thing you take apart is a fight....

Wrenching on older vehicles in salt belts is just plain horrible at times. The Blue wrench is mandatory...

Good luck man. Hope the BS is behind you.
 
Be sure you install the pushrods with the copper colored ends to the rocker arms.

If you do not have them this way the rockers and pushrods will go away in short order and fail.

The one end with the color is hardened and needs to be in the rockers.

On some engines it is easy to see and others it takes some careful looking to spot the copper color on the one ball.


Missy
 
Have that one covered. I followed the suggestion that you guys gave Simon in using cardboard and poking then thru to keep then in order and right end up.
I have run into one problem. When I cut the stud bolts off the Turbo side I poked a 1/8" hold into the manifold. Going to try and get it welded for a temp fix until I find another. Those manifold are pretty thin in the area of the bolts.
 
If you have someone that is competent doing the job, the welding or brazing will last a long time.

I cracked the manifold on my father's S10 trying to get the EGR tube out and had it brazed.

It's also commonly done on the rarer muscle car exhaust manifolds. When they are made out of unobtainium you do what you gotta.
 
Got it back on the road. Drove it home last night. Almost 100k drive with no issues. Fingers are crossed that she will fire up with no pressure in the hoses and still lost of water in her. It only took a second to weld the manifold up. I weld but never played with cast before. Must say if flowed real good after heating it up on top of the wood stove for about 30 minutes.
 
Notice one small problem. The heater hose with the push in fitting is leaking (just a few drips) when there is little to no pressure. Once running it does not leak that I can see. I take it there is an "O" ring and clip replacement kit that goes there.
 
Just replace it with a 5/8" hose barb with 1/2" pipe threads. There should be info in the stickies at the top of the page.

Leo
 
I may have missed it. Was just curious if you replace the head bolts. They are a one time use item. you may be sealed now but may have problems in the future. Just an FYI.
 
Yes got new head bolts. I heat dealing with TTY bolts but to swap them out is a bit of money. I changed to a piece of heater hose for the quick connect. I heated the thermostat housing before attempting to loosen it up. Came off real nice and slick. Everything seems good to go for a while.
Still have a couple of issues that I have to work out. I have a bad transmission shudder when TC locks up and unlocks. Been doing it for the 7 years that I have had the truck. The PO did a lot of towing and I think he did so in OD. I have read that it is a solenoid that causes this (since getting on this site) and I have always thought that it was the TC that caused the problem. The other issue is I have lost my cruise control. Have not had that problem since my IP went. After changing that I remotely installed my FSD with a heat sink. Have not had an issue with it for 5 years. I have another FSD so I will swap that out this weekend and see if I get it back. No code reader so can't check them without cost.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions people.
 
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