• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

pulled codes today

Nico

New Member
Messages
84
Reaction score
0
Location
Sabinas Hidalgo NL, MX.
finally got around to pull the codes on the 1500 today, I got 31, 32, 33, 35 and 36, truck's been running good 'cept for one time that stalled on my brother and took a while to re start, I immediately thought PMD but who knows... thoughts?

also seems to be using oil... hope I didnt get a money pit :mad2:
 
Didn't realize you where OBD1 since your a 94. Here are the correct codes:

31 cam position sensor fault
32 egr circuit fault
33 map sensor signal out of range, high
35 idle air control sensor circuit fault
36 ignition system circuit error

These are all electronic problems. And based on the variance the first thing you should do is grab a wire brush, some wrenches, and anti-oxidizing paste. Clean up all of the ground wires(there is a thread in the main 6.5 forum that tells you where they are), by polishing both the wire and connection point to the frame or block to a shine, then apply a liberal amount of anti-ox and tighten everything down. Also do the same to all of your battery terminals as well. Heavy corrosion can strain the electrical system. And since electronics only require an either a connection to ground or power, corrosion in any terminals can wreck havoc on the system. Lets start there(its free and only costs you time) :thumbsup:
 
I will do the grounds when dad gets back with the truck tonight, the pmd is remote mounted but its a pretty sloppy job (located inside the engine compartment attached to a crappy heatsink and a fan that looks like a computer's to cool it off)
when I bought the truck it had a bottle of diesel kleen and I also have some lucas additive, will that work instead of stanadyne? Im in Mexico and the latter is hard to come by.
 
The diesel kleen will work equally as well as the standyne product. As for the oil, it goes into the fuel in about a 120:1 ratio. Reason you are using 2 stroke oil(think weedwacker or hedge trimmer) is it adds lubrication to the fuel system to keep the injectors and injection pump properly lubricated with fuel. Something that the ULSD diesel available today lacks.

As for the PMD, I recommend getting rid of the jerry rigged setup in there ASAP. not sure what your budget is on this thing, but theirs not much that sucks more than driving a 6.5 when the PMd quits because of to much heat.

At a bare minimum, there is a gentleman here named Leroy who ownes www.PMDcable.com At the very minimum, he can hook you up with a 6ft extension harness so you can take that rigged assembly and get it outside of the engine bay until you have the funds for a full kit. Having that PMD outside the engine bay makes a world of difference.
 
We have regular sulfur diesel here in Mexico so no big deal about that, the PMD already has a long harness I can just relocate it (two years ago I did that on the dually but kept it inside the engine bay where the fan cools it off and its working great) budget is kinda tight but I definitely need to look into replacing that half assed heatsink its attached to right now.. got a lot of rain this evening so no grounds cleaning was done, will get back with yall tomorrow with results, or more questions.
 
He's in Mexico,, check the fuel your using to see if its Ultra low sulfer Diesel, or just low sulfer. They maybe still selling the old fuel where he is. But for sure do all them grounds and battery connections.
 
I started cleaning the grounds today, didnt think they'd be so hard to get to..did just three of them, both batteries and one behind the engine on the passenger side.. I think Im gonna have my mechanic neighbor do it or show me how..
 
The one on the passenger side is probably one of the most important connections of all. Many different electronic parts are grounded off of just that one piece so even just doing that one will make a major improvement.
 
all I could manage to do was one off of the several connected to that very spot.. its raining like crazy and more rain on the way as "Alex" approaches, cant do any work on the truck
 
The codes for the 6.5 are different than defined in post 2.

Those are just all EGR (31-33) and pulse width (35-36) codes. Did you disconnect any vacuum lines or vacuum sensors? Or mess with the sensor on the firewall where there was a vacuum line going to a sensor that looks just like the boost sensor on the intake? If your Baro/Vacuum sensor or one of the vacuum solenoids are messed up could cause some crazy crap, and on a scanner it would just set like an 11.5psi baro reading, instead of 13.8ish like atmospheric pressure should be.

Grounds is also always a good start. If you move the ground that used to be on top of the IP, could cause some issues too.

First thing you should do is clear the codes and see what comes back. There is a pedal method to clear them if you arent using a scanner.
 
looks like the crappy fsd finally gave.. went to start the rig this morning, it did and then started rattling bad for about 2 secs, I killed it and tried to re start but no luck.. it had been randomly stalling at times but usually it would start right back... Leroy do you take paypal?
 
Back
Top