Priority Modifications

[Rodd]

After going 3 years without a 6.5 Diesel I am once again back on the wagon. Not having worked on one in the past 3 years I'm trying to prioritize the mods that need to be done versus what I want done. The only mod that I have that I don't have to pay for is my KOJO tune. When I totaled my truck I had my stock PCM was in the truck so I took my KOJO. The only problem with that is it was tuned for an ATT which I don't have. I also have my heath waste gate controller on my old turbo so I really have 2 mods, but not sure if I should put in the KOJO or not. The PMD is relocated under the bumper as well. Oh, it also has 174k miles.

I'm going to list what needs to be done by what I think is the correct priority. Let me know if you think I need to change the priorities or add something to the list.

Leroys Oil cooler
Leroys Ops Ext
Air filter K&N or Leroy's not sure the difference
Get rid of the pink coolant crap
Change Trans fluid to amsoil
Change diff/transaxel fluid to amsoil
Delete oil filter 90 and add bypass add amsoil
Racor prefilter & change all fuel lines
Leroys Walbro Lift pump
Cross over Pipe
3 or 4" Exhaust
Marine injectors / glow plugs
FTB
Gauges - egt, turbo, fuel pressure
#9 resistor
ATT

I think this completes the list.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Great Start!

Here is how I'd make a few adjustments to the list:
> Use the stock ECM until the ATT goes in. When it is time for the ATT, get a newer ATT tune from KoJo by way of Leroy.

> For the air filter, there was no mention of what type of element (paper or oiled). I'd stick with paper elements and change based on the 'filter minder'. Also, I'd go with a K47 setup using the cylindrical filter.

> For the fuel pre-lp filters, watch for Leroy to come out with a fuel heater in the future. (Leroy: Hint, hint . . .)

> Prior to switching the motor or tranny over to synthetic, I'd get analysis on the current fluid to find out whether the components need a rebuild, or are still good-to-go.

> For the marine injectors, make *absolutely* sure the guts are Bosch and have them set to 2300 pop. When you install the ATT and KOJO tune with the marines, you will get near zero smoke a WOT with this configuration.

> #9 resistor. Meh . . . I'd skip this as it is really not going to do much in an OBD system. Just go with the tune as that is where the fueling control occurs.


Given the age and no known repair history, from experience I'd add:
> complete fuel system replacement including the tank and removing the in-tank filter.
> brake overhaul (lines, master cylinder). If you can handle the expense of stainless lines, there are pre-bent ones available that are worth the money.
> presuming this is for the 98 Sub, I'd go with a 30" FTE resonator if the decision is to use 4" exhaust. It has some drone at less than 55 mph while the motor is warming up. At 65 mph it is rather quiet.

 

[schiker]

I guess it depends on what maintenance has been done to the truck and condition then how hard are you going to use it.

Are you doing it in stages and how much time between mods.

IF no oil cooler leaks I would.

Stage 1
1. Lube fluid maintenance.
2. Gauges (will give baseline and help with diagnosing things).
3. Exhaust

Exhaust never hurts could do that as No. 2 then gauges.

Stage 2
Your list order not too critical depending on what gauges tell you.

 

[WarWagon]

Air filter K&N - Save the $60.00 and run without an air filter or use a window screen as you will get the same results. (Actually less oil on the MAF, if equipped, so you are better off without a filter than with a K&N.) K&N's don't filter very well and dust the intake and engine badly. Search for K&N problems on Google before you waste your money.

A K47 air cleaner assembly with the round filter is the best and you may already have one.

Don't forget to clean out the debris behind the oil cooler.

If the fan clutch is over 5 years old replace it.

 

[btfarm]

"Get rid of the pink coolant crap"

There is nothing wrong with good quality ELC. In fact, if you don't do a REALLY thorough job of flushing it all out and pour green coolant in, you are going to have a bigger problem because they don't mix and may sludge up.

BTW - Grounds is job 1

 

[JayTheCPA]

Forgot a braking TSB on the Burb. Check your pads and shoes. If the pads look like they are pretty worn and the shoes look nearly new, check to see whether your Burb qualified for a TSB regarding the proportioning valve (indications commonly were premature front brake wear and rotor warping). If you do qualify for the TSB, follow mods per this thread:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...rge-rear-brake-cylinders-on-my-99-burb.37663/

After making these changes, the truck will 'dig' when you stop (as opposed to porpoise) and have a noticeable pedal feel for the better.


Regarding fan clutch replacement, do *NOT* use the part recommended by AC Delco in the online lookup as it engages too late (do not ask how I know), go with either the one by Kennedy Diesel (with the ~180F air engagement temp) or the Hayden 2886 (or bolt-on equivalent).

Also, if you are thinking about replacing the water pump, consider changing over to the spin-on version (if you do not already have it).


Regarding the coolant, if you have the budget for it, consider going with waterless. Once and done. As long as there are no leaks, it is the last time you should need to add any.

 

[Rodd]

Schiker,

It does have a leak at the oil cooler lines by the filter, that's why I had all the oil mods near the top to do them all at once.

 

[Rodd]

Jay,

Where is a good place to look for the stainless brake lines?

 

[WarWagon]

If you are going down the brake road - make sure to get the expensive shoes that cost over $100 per set as they stop better than the cheap ones. Semi metallic for front pads. Avoid Autozone Krap as they fall apart and changing ruined rotors isn't fun as studs have to be pressed out.

I use Wagner Thermoquiet with good results.

Adjust the rear shoes every other oil change.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Where is a good place to look for the stainless brake lines?

Inline Tube. Had the shop do the install and they were extremely happy with how well the lines were exact fit with all the correct bends and flares. Only regret was that we could not get a set of stainless / braided flex lines, so you are on your own for that part.

If you are going to use Inline Tube, call them and make the order over the phone as their online selector tool will drive you crazy.

 

[Rodd]

Inline Tube. Had the shop do the install and they were extremely happy with how well the lines were exact fit with all the correct bends and flares. Only regret was that we could not get a set of stainless / braided flex lines, so you are on your own for that part.

If you are going to use Inline Tube, call them and make the order over the phone as their online selector tool will drive you crazy.

Thanks Jay.

 

[Rodd]

If you are going down the brake road - make sure to get the expensive shoes that cost over $100 per set as they stop better than the cheap ones. Semi metallic for front pads. Avoid Autozone Krap as they fall apart and changing ruined rotors isn't fun as studs have to be pressed out.

I use Wagner Thermoquiet with good results.

Adjust the rear shoes every other oil change.

Thanks for the advise. I was also thinking of doing the rear cylinder mod that Jay mentioned above. I have some other more in-depth questions I'll start a new thread for.

The thing that really sucks is it took me 6 years to get my old suburban exactly how I wanted it and then less than 3 months after it gets totaled. Now I'm starting all over.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Air filter K&N - Save the $60.00 and run without an air filter or use a window screen as you will get the same results. (Actually less oil on the MAF, if equipped, so you are better off without a filter than with a K&N.) K&N's don't filter very well and dust the intake and engine badly. Search for K&N problems on Google before you waste your money.

A K47 air cleaner assembly with the round filter is the best and you may already have one.

Don't forget to clean out the debris behind the oil cooler.

If the fan clutch is over 5 years old replace it.

I've used the K&N for a long time w/pre filter w/o issues however most oiled filters can get damaged when cleaned improperly so a pre/filter is best defense against fine dust.....

Only real defense against fine sand dust is specialized canister filter like UMP or commercial Donaldson moving one battery into aanother area is a must to fit such big filters canisters but the flow is there http://www.pacificcustoms.com/umpfilter10925.html

 

[WarWagon]

I've used the K&N for a long time w/pre filter w/o issues however most oiled filters can get damaged when cleaned improperly so a pre/filter is best defense against fine dust.....

Only real defense against fine sand dust is specialized canister filter like UMP or commercial Donaldson moving one battery into aanother area is a must to fit such big filters canisters but the flow is there http://www.pacificcustoms.com/umpfilter10925.html

I really don't need anything better than the factory paper filter. I DO know K&N messes up IAC, idle air control, by coating them in unfiltered dust in the same conditions a standard paper air filter handles.

Here are the test results proving the difference:

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

 

[Burning oil]

I always suggest a dry element http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/air-filtration/

 

[FellowTraveler]

I really don't need anything better than the factory paper filter. I DO know K&N messes up IAC, idle air control, by coating them in unfiltered dust in the same conditions a standard paper air filter handles.

Here are the test results proving the difference:

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

Last time I was in AZ I caught up in a hellish sand storm for quite some time and the K&N pre-filter did it's job to keep dust from entering intake however HVAC intake sucked in dust that covered everything. I've been using S&B oiled filter and will be switching to a dry canister and outside snorkle of my own design after move passenger side battery into vehicle lucky military surplus battery cables can be had on the cheap.

 

[jrsavoie]

Jay,

Where is a good place to look for the stainless brake lines?

I like http://www.inlinetube.com/

I would add Fluidamper to the list if you get to needing a damper

I would also add feed the Beast the next time you have to pull the intake.

4" stainless exhaust. I am on the 2nd down pipe on the 1994 because aluminized was used. I also like the down pipe to disconnect from the exhaust so it can easily be completely removed. There has been a few times this would have been handy.