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PowerMaster Starter Install with Block Carnage

dbrannon79

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Seguin, TX
Hello all, I figured I better start a new thread rather than post a ton of pics and what not to the "What did you do to your truck today" thread.

Here is a link to my post there where I started getting in depth about my issue at hand.

What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Got the seal removal tool from ebay. It worked great. Had to file the shift shaft slightly to remove some burrs, in order to get the seal removal device to slide over the shaft. I tried pressing in on the tool and rotating it with the 3/4” wrench, not enough pressure, I must have turned into a...
www.thetruckstop.us

to recap on what happened, recently I have noticed that when the engine is already been running a bit and warm it has some issues with the starter solenoid just clicking before it actually cranks up. mainly when I pull into a drive through food joint and shut it off to talk over the loud speaker.

shortly after I bought the truck it started having issues with the starter grinding on the flex plate teeth. during that time I discovered that someone before me didn't install the bracket for the starter and the block broke at the outer ear for the mounting bolt. the block had also been welded up and a thread insert repair installed.

when I found this I was at aw and learned real quick what happens when the bracket is left off. to make matters worse, the flex plate had a good amount of ware on the teeth. I wound up replacing the flex plate, the starter at the time still had a good Bendix gear so I was able to re-install with new GM bolts.

Fast forward to now, the starter solenoid issue arises. I decide to go deep and buy a PowerMaster starter and a set of ARP bolts, along with another attempt to brace the starter to take some of the side load away from the block where it's been welded in t he hopes to keep it on the road until the rest of the engine wears out.


Tonight I got a chance to pull off the starter and take some pics of the carnage. Now take note of the pics below, when I did the flex plate and reinstalled the starter, I used GM bolts with nord locks to keep them from backing out. also installed a new bracket. The way the block was repaired with the thread insert, I had to cut some extra threads on the outer bolt for it to fully seat on the starter to tighten up. also the bracket was new when installed.

when I removed it all, I noticed real quick that the bracket was bent severely but the bolts were still tight and not bent. I also noticed looking at the starter real good, you can tell that the rear housing with the stud for the bracket has twisted a slight amount (look at the long body bolts on the starter for the angle)


Here is the bracket...
IMG_4230.jpgIMG_4231.jpgIMG_4232.jpg

The starter...
IMG_4233.jpg

And the GM bolts I used with the nord locks... (notice the extra threads I cut for the bolt to fully seat)
IMG_4234.jpg

Now for the Carnage..
IMG_4229.jpgIMG_4225.jpgIMG_4226.jpgIMG_4228.jpgIMG_4227.jpg

Yes the other bolt hole had two cracks in it too! sad, very sad. I also see I have a valve cover leaking, what joy!!
 
In the morning my plan is to install the Powermaster starter (no shim like the old starter had) and go about trying to figure out what I can do for stabilizing and help taking some of the side load away from the mounting bolts.

I had test fitted the new starter to a donor 6.2 block I have just to visually see what my options were. I came up with using a piece of angle iron slightly longer than the original bracket so that the end would rest against the block just above where the oil pan face is. other that that, I really can't see anything else I can do here. Maybe some of you all might have some suggestions and ideas. Here are a couple of pics of the mock up fitment on the 6.2 block.

One thing I noticed was when fitting the factory bracket, it has to be slightly tilted for the bolt hole to line up. Not sure if that is an issue, I still have work to do on the angle iron like making the bolt hole ether larger or slotted like the factory bracket. what are yall's thoughts on this?

Note: this factory bracket is another one I had in my tool box, it's not the one I just pulled off my engine that was bent and twisted.

Img1.jpgImg7.jpgImg9.jpgImg10.jpg
 
If it was me I'd make a copper bolt and then vee out the cracks pretty good install the bolt and preheat pretty good then mig weld it and then post heat it to let it cool down slowly. Unscrew the copper bolt and you'd be good
 
dbrannon79 said:
unfortunately no, I don't know anyone who can weld cast near me. those two cracks were there back when I did the flex plate.
Click to expand...
Leroy diesel sells a kit that has a bellhousing adapter plate that goes between the engine and transmission with custom starter if you really want the problem resolved.Probably isn’t cheap but looks like a great product that’s been developed.
 
That ear is going to fail. How long is anyone’s guess. It isn’t just a couple cracks- I zoomed in so the bolt hole cracks are easer to see- the hole thing has spider web cracks throughout.

I don’t know how well welding that would work without repeated grinding a V, welding it, grind flat. Then V the area next to it, weld, grind flat.
Then after doing it everywhere- those fractures are still so deep it might still fail.
But might be worth a try. The other option is crossing fingers and when it goes, get the kit from Leroy, saving the Powermaster for the 6.2
IMG_8049.jpegIMG_8048.png

I noticed on the pic with the old bolts, you had 1 washer on each. When using Nordlocks: the way they work is the two together interacting with each other. You don’t use them with any other washer of any kind. The two nordlocks are blue in the picture to demonstrate.
 
on t he old bolts the washer is the nordlock, one on each bolt. I didn't know it took two together for each bolt! on the ARP bolts, they came with some sort of thick spacer. not sure what the spacers are for though.

I have seen the bell housing kit Leroy sells. that did peak my interest a bit. and I think power master also sells a starter with front face mounting too. I think I am going the route Will said... cross my fingers, install the starter and hope it lasts a while longer.

I will take the old starter to use as I start working with the 6.2. the starter will still work for things like doing a compression test and what not.
 
I also ordered a starter wrap off amazon to help protect it from the manifold heat. it was the simplest thing I could find. seems it encases the entire starter. Not sure that is such a good idea though, it can trap heat in the starter as well.
 
Ok need some help here. I went to my local Napa and had a new cable made since my old one was too short. The new on is much better than the old crusty one I had.

Upon first crank I’m getting the same “click click vroom”. BTW it sounds like a dodge cranking lol.

Here’s a video of it in action. What are y’all’s thoughts here?

 
The old starter had a single shim. I know others have said many times not to use one on these engines, but should I put it on this starter? or would the starter work it's self in over a few uses.
 
looking at the pic you posted of the heat shield, I looked on ebay and found this one. it looks a bit different, looks like the one end used the factory solenoid to secure it. how does the one your posted get secured on the one end. I can tell the other end uses the bolt from the bracket.

www.ebay.com

CUCV 6.2L Starter Heat Shield | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CUCV 6.2L Starter Heat Shield at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
 
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