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possible towrig for the parents

red

Being a lake bum in Texas
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Location
Lake Brownwood, Texas
Well my parents are going to be retiring here pretty soon and are interested in having a 24-30ft travel trailer and want a cheap towrig to pull it. Found an 85 chevy 3/4 ton reg cab long bed 2wd that should fit their wish list. Their requirements:
1. Reliable
2. Easy to fix
3. Cheap to fix
4. Decent fuel economy
5. Auto
6. 2wd
7. AC
8. Fuel economy in the teens when empty (specific on no big blocks haha)

They would like me to rebuild the truck for them before they start traveling since I have the time right now, waiting for Haliburton to call me back as to whether or not I have the job so I have free time for the next few weeks. The truck that we found runs/drives and we would be buying it from the original motor, other than some rust it looks pretty good, has not been modified.

Truck is an 85 chevy reg cab long bed 3/4 ton. 2wd, 6.2 diesel with a th400 auto. My dad wants the truck to have a turbo but is not worried about being a heavy hauler like my truck, just a little extra power.

My plans for the truck to make it a little more powerful without comprimising reliability and cleaning up the truck:
Axle
1. limited slip diff in the rear axle
2. Replace front wheel bearings
3. Inspect brakes. Would a rear disk brake conversion be worth it considering its a 30ft travel trailer (bumper pull)
4. Trailer brake controller if the truck doesnt have one

Trans
1. Replace output seal
2. Deep pan
3. Stand alone oil cooler, thinking of mounting it underneath the bed
4. Locking torque converter from a 4L80

Engine
1. I'm picking up a 6.5 from a 92 for my truck. Thinking of donating the exhaust manifolds and turbo from it, or is that era turbo a bad choice?
2. Head gaskets from a 6.5 along with the precups from the 6.5 motor (or maybe swap the heads)
3. ARP head studs
4. Main studs a good idea or overkill?
5. Replace injectors with stock power bosche ones, or possibly rebuild them myself (would be my first time).
6. Replace fuel hoses
7. Test lift pump, replace if needed.
8. High output water pump. The truck will see time towing throughout the south for sure so heat is a big concern. Any other cooling system upgrades to consider? The truck should already have a 4 core radiator, maybe get a different one that does not have the built in cooler?
9. 2.5" exhaust crossover and a 3" downpipe

Body
1. Repaint the body
2. Bedliner for the bed and the floorboards
3. Insulation on the floor and inside of firewall
4. Bucket seats from a 73-91 suburban
5. They want a huge center console, would have to build one
6. Add AC if it doesnt have it
7. Brush guard

Am I on track here or going overboard/heading in the wrong direction? Anything that is missing from the list?
 
Gonna be tough getting out of low teens (unloaded) with a TH400 and enough gear to pull with 3.73-4.10's. Suspension mods will be needed for a bumper pull that size behind 27 yr old springs. Shocks (for a comfy ride for the folks)

The 6.5 turbo manifold gets in the way of the AC box at the firewall. A banks 6.2 manifold with an ATT would be good.

Check the main webs before you do any engine mods (you dont want the folks broken down with busted mains)

If the mains are fine then BUILD IT. New bearings, studs, honed center line, LIGHT hone on the cylinders, rering, Head studs, felpro gaskets (0.010 over), fluid damper

OD trans (4l80E w/ controler from Leroy) or Gear Vendor.

For better cooling i would keep hot oil and tranny fluid OUT of the radiator.

That is where I would start atleast.
 
I talked to the owner of the truck today, he's the original owner. Injectors were replaced 2 years ago, no known issues besides the radio doesnt work. Most likely going to pick it up this weekend. says he averages 19-20mpg on the highway, has gotten a best of 22 when he went on a road trip to florida.

Good point on the suspension, maybe remove the overload leaf from the spring packs and install a set of airbags to help when the trailer is connected. That way its a smoother ride unloaded but still able to handle the weight.

Forgot about the manifold issue with the AC box.

Why the 4L80E, isnt it basicly a th400 with an overdrive added on? (strength comparison). Trailer would be too heavy to safely use the overdrive on a 4L80E wouldn't it?
 
Wrong direction. Start with a 2004+ Duramax or 2003+ Dodge Diesel.
You will have to replace and rebuild every part on the old truck to handle hard work of towing. Been there done that. Cheaper to start with more cash to buy a newer vehicle.
After you go one of a kind custom build... Something breaks or a wire comes loose. you are offshore with your new job and the folks are in the middle of nowhere. odds are a stock truck can be fixed cheaper than a custom one of a kind.

The newer stuff is stronger and doesn't have to work as hard to tow. Your MPH will be higher as well as MPG.

If you insist on going with an old truck the Cummings is still an industrial engine...

Stolen or wrecked you will not recover the custom work and cost out of the old truck from your insurance. Be aware of that as the low cost truck isn't after you whip it into shape. You may need special insurance.

Insist on a 6.5 and my advice is to use an A Team Turbo. The factory turbo's are restrictive costing you 5 MPG unloaded (vs. NA) and 3+ MPG loaded (GM3 vs. ATT) and lots of power in the top end goes to fighting the turbo choke.

In summery after towing with my Duramax and 1993 6.5: I could make the payment on a fully loaded $50,000 new truck with what I spent at the parts store for the 1993 every month. I purchased a 2005 Duramax for $12,500. $4K in parts, tune, exhaust, intake, cooling mods later I have a truck that will out tow the 1993 and is way more reliable. I have at least $12,500 sunk cost in the 1993 and it still needs paint.
 
Those are all good points WW.
Especially this one:
"Something breaks or a wire comes loose. you are offshore with your new job and the folks are in the middle of nowhere. odds are a stock truck can be fixed cheaper than a custom one of a kind."
 
Not trying to start a fight. But first of all, it is Cummins. Second, doing a Cummins swap you will probably have $7000-$15,000 in it doing the swap. I am doing one right now for a guy into a 71 Ford. I have been a GM guy my whole life, it's all I have ever owned. I wanted to sell my 99 K2500 for a Duramax for about 3 years. After seeing all the ($400-$4000)injector issues, ($400)instrument cluster issues, ($100) blend door issues, tie rod end issues, I have decided to keep the 99 until it gives me problems. I must have gotten one of the good 6.5's because it has not been a money pit. It has been a great truck. I know, or hope there are a lot of great Duramax's out there, but there is always that chance. I say if your parents have the money, buy new. If not, be picky and by a lower mileage used truck. My Daughter picked up a sweet 1983 Blazer with 143,000 that already has a turbo on it. They are out there, you just have to be patient, and jump when you see them.
 
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