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Pics of fuel filter before lift pump

hookedup50

hookedup50

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Location
MA
I got my MRFSU and fuel filter from Leroy and getting ready to install I'm wondering where others are locating it. I figure on cutting the aluminum oem line before the lp and clamping rubber fuel lineto make the connection. I am a plumber so I'm considering bending and and flare fittings, but want to know simplest method that will function properly. If there is a link to a thread that I missed, that works for me as well. I'm having T storms out so my wireless is to slow to search forum before connection is lost. Thanks. I plan on taking pics of the MRFSU install if it ever stops raining every hour here in MA. So far I have the mounting bolts off for the bed. I'm a bed remover on this one as fuel tank is full and have Reject sticker that the local pd has problems with. Also the bed is moved to weld in lower panel(cancer) on EC.
 
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Here is what I did, metrum fuel rod ( Don't really care for it!!) -6 lines from tank to pre lift pump filter I used a Walbro FRC 10 then a another filter then straight to the IP and deleted the FFM
 
Thanks BB, going with Metrum fuel rod cause I'm on 3rd oem sender since 06. I can't keep doing same thing and expect different results. Hoping it lasts. Every vehicle except 07 colorado goes through senders every 2 years. I'll weld a mounting plate in the morning and get some ss braid hoses as well. Thanks again
 
I liked Raceday's set up but I'd need a lot more time than he did to do fab it up.

IMO, no need to cut the OEM lines.
On my FRB-5 and Prefilter purchased from Leroy, I used some scrap metal to make a set up that was functional but not a showpiece by any means. I was trying to copy this set up which was pictured on Leroys web page a couple of versions back.
fuel line fittings 003.jpg
Mine was a lot rougher but is still functional and will serve very well on 635's truck soon.

Leroy came up with a set up for using Unistrut (post 36 here) and Orionthade used the same material using lengths sufficient to create a system that could be adjusted / adapted later.
 
I was not totally satisfied with mine. If I had kept the burb it was going to get braided lines with AN fittings, at least on the suction side. I used the fittings from Leroy and mounted it all on a piece of scrap aluminum plate that I found. I bolted it to the frame with some spacers. I went with a WIX prefilter and did away with the tank sock.
fuel pump.jpg
 
Make sure the filter doesn't hang below the frame. The tire guys hit mine and crushed it some while lifting. Lucky it didn't leak.

The Metrum fuel rod is all but indestructible. I have had wet biodiesel that ate the tank lining off and ruined the OEM sensors. Didn't bother the Metrum fuel rod at all. Do make sure you cut the vent tube out of the way if needed.
 
Thanks for the tips. Hoping my back allows me to do some work today.
 
I send the MRFSU out UNCUT now. That allows the installer to custom cut it to length. Before I was having problems with getting the exact length for each truck.
Seems as though every truck is different from Suburbans to ECLB's to ECSB's, CC's .....ect are all different.
Also, this is a completely different design than GM, so it probably is going to read different. Example: it will probably read full longer than your used to.
If you have any questions please ask before cutting the MRFSU.
 
Burning oil said:
I send the MRFSU out UNCUT now. That allows the installer to custom cut it to length. Before I was having problems with getting the exact length for each truck.
Seems as though every truck is different from Suburbans to ECLB's to ECSB's, CC's .....ect are all different.
Also, this is a completely different design than GM, so it probably is going to read different. Example: it will probably read full longer than your used to.
If you have any questions please ask before cutting the MRFSU.
Click to expand...

Wish that was an option a year ago when I installed mine, when I have a full tank it only reads 3/4, sure does bug me.
 
Not sure why that would happen? In your case an uncut version wouldint help as the float is all they way up when your tank is full so its at its max reading of 93 ohms at that point. Next time you have a full tank put a multimeater on it to confirm, then you can check it as you burn fuel out. When empty it will be close to 0 ohms. So if full and it reads 93 and empty 0 or near 0 you have another problem. Grounds, guage or ??? The MRFSU is just a real fancy switch. Again it may not read the same way your used to seeing, but it should read full to empty.
 
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