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our product for the "Humbler"...LOL

turbonator

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Location
Lac Superieur, Quebec
okay guys, this is a little break-down of the motor that we are running right now.... just to clairify things a bit, this is not anything really special, the "project motor" that we talk about a bit is nowhere ready to go to the dyno yet, unless we put all the pieces on a pallet in the back of the truck :hihi:...LOL

so, the motor we are running is a 1994 599 casting 6.5l block with N/A 6.5l heads / pre-cups, .010" over felpro head gaskets, fire-ringed deck, o- ring modded heads with ARP head-studs ( also this motor was the one we built for our "pugg" project 2 years ago, so it is not a fresh rebuild) it has one of our 5 pin girdles in the bottom end.... the compression on it is 19.5:1.... it is tied to a 4l80e, which is filtered by a spin-on donaldson unit, as well as the factory filter, and cooled by a hayden cooler mounted under the bed with a electric fan for cooling....

on the out side of the motor we have wrapped all the exhaust manifolds with header wrap as well as the mandrel bent x-over(2.5") , and 3" down-pipe. running into a 3" magnaflow stainless muffler, and 3" exhaust, dumping into a 6" chrome tip in front of pass. wheel. for the intake we are running a 6.5l f-code lower with a peninsular upper (thanks to mike), the bottom of the intake is all double thermally insulated , to cut down the IAT's....
we have a rebuilt holset H1C non gated (18cm2 housing) feeding the motor, with a turbo blanket to help with spooling. for the air intake we are running a custom sealed 24" airbox with a 18"x9" donaldson air filter made for a hino, the box takes its air from a custom ram air inlet on pass. fender.
we are also running a DIY WMI system that is boost actuated(8psi) with a #625 cc nozzle.
for a lift pump, we run a carter 4070, which gives us 7-9 psi at idle, and never below 5psi at WOT

our injection pump is a DB-2831-5088, with a ground leaf-spring to allow full plunger travel with no restriction, it is fed by a machined by us 3/8 inlet. the injectors are run-of-the-mill bosch units with a yet to be determined pop-pressures.
we pulled it out of pugg, cleaned it, inspected it, fire-ringed it , quick head job(changed out all the cracked N/A pre-cups) and installed it in less than a week, last fall when we blew our rebuilt 599 6.2l after 200 km:eek:.... so our new marine injectors are still in the blown motor, which will be installed along with further pump mods and an hybrid hx-35w/intercooler combo, when we hit the dyno again in may... so this time will be our baseline.... :cool:
when we arrive at the "humbler" i (jeff) am hoping to see 235 at the wheels.... jim says he will be real happy to see 225 at the wheels..... but most of all we will both be happy to dyno, and leave with a still running truck...LOL.... so prepare to be treated to a couple of full throttle dyno runs, lots of smiles, and hopefully some worthy diesel porn.... pics will follow....:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Okay, first two are of the girdle, made to fit with any of the 6.2/6.5L oil pans. The next two are the O-ring mod to the heads, to eliminate the ARP studs from allowing coolant seepage into the valve train area of the head. When motor was originally prepared for the "Pugg", we were thinking to use a mechanical fuel pump. Not enough volume of fuel for the turned up 2831/VGT351 combo at that time. The next is the pics of the fire-ringing of the block, an idea that we picked up from 6.2turbo.....he boosts higher than us though...LOL.
 

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The girdle on the left, opposite the lift pump looks like it's damaged half way down.

Is it a notch for the dip stick?
 
Gonna try to post for the wrapping of the manifolds and cross-over and down pipe. After that, the tail pipe and muffler were removed and wire-brushed prior to a high-heat black (rust inhibitor). The next is the heat shielding done to the bottom of the F-code.
 

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turbo pics... this is a turbo we bought at the pick-n-pull, and rebuilt with a kit and new wheels and shaft...
 

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The girdle on the left, opposite the lift pump looks like it's damaged half way down.

Is it a notch for the dip stick?

yeah its for the dip stick, that is version 1.0, now we cut it alot lower , but with the first one it was machined to run the hummer pan, and it has a slightly different angle to the dip-stick...or might be a relief for the contours of the pan. The next one we made, we moved the stud holes in .125" which eliminated the need to relieve the exterior of the angle iron....it was through the fitting of the first (this one), that we decided on 1 1/2" X 1 1/2", instead of 2"X 2" angle. Saves a lot of grinding and hand filing....LOL.

KBC

Time for coffee and cake (and ice cream...), been at this now for almost 2 1/2hrs.....back in a bit.....
 
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Red, we have been running this motor now since Dec 2011, it is our DD/WT....got a Caprice sitting here waiting for its 6.5L. With the first pump settings we used (to allow parts to get to know each others...LOL), we had 10 psi boost @WOT. With the mods to the 2831(.310" plunger), we now get to 25 psi boost @ WOT.

We will continue with the pics tomorrow......
 
We saw how Andrew Ashwell, did his with the 3/16" thick phenolic spacers (never found any in the garbage yet...LOL), but we did the best we could....Jeff says we don't live next door to NASA's garbage can yet....so we just use the OEM gaskets.....still need to set up a IAT gauge, just got the differential temp gauge installed.
 
How high you guys planning on revving it on the dyno.. or in general for that matter. ?? I also would like to think that you could hit upwards of 250
 
Will be going pedal to the metal..... on our tach now, it shows 3800-3900rpm. Will be hopefully an opportunity also to check the calibration of our tach (depending on where they will take signal from).

From all of the reading and research we have done on the different pumps, we have came to believe (verified Stanadyne info is difficult to access), that the DB2831 pumps have the fuel potential for around 40hp/cylinder. At 8 cylinders, that calculates to 320 hp at the crank. After removing 25-30% drivetrain losses we get 213-240hp at the wheels. This will be a good base-line for us, as we have a few more things we want to try yet this spring.

As things are looking and advancing now, we should be ready sometime in the summer to really shoot at the 300rwhp mark. This will not be with this truck though, as this is our bread-winner.
 
Hmm, My buddy that I got my pump from says he had his motor running upwards of 4,600 -4,800.. Didn't get exactly what he did to the pump though.

I've read those same specs on Stanadyne's site, kinda makes me wonder if those specs were for the 2 plunger or 4 plunger pumps, as well as, they are probably maxing them out with the dinky inlet, low supply fuel pressure and what ever they conjure up on their test stands... I do recall 6.2 replying to me that the 4 plunger was capable of a LOT of fuel, I think even stating "enough fuel to push 60 psi boost" IIRC, but I'm sure that was with him working some magic inside one. The thought of 50 -60hp / cylinder with lil effort would be awesome, though.
 
Sounds like one hell of an awesome project you guys got going on.

What did you use to wrap all of the exhaust pipes? Could you also tell me details and possibly post some pics of you transmission cooler set up? Thanks
 
Hey guys, you said you pulled our the cracked NA precups, but did you put NA precups back in their place. I am a firm believer that the larger mouth precups aid in combustion of higher volumes of fuel, and faster at higher torque angles to the crankshaft to get more power. Might get a bit faster spooling too.

So if you get ahold of some diamond precups it would be interesting to compare the difference just a precup change makes, before adding more fuel :)
 
We were already getting the parts together for the next build at that time and it was an emergency replacement, so we used the single square cups in it. We have Diamonds here, as a back-up in case our modded cups do not perform well in the "Leprechaun" motor build......still looking for a lime-green S10.....LOL.
 
We were already getting the parts together for the next build at that time and it was an emergency replacement, so we used the single square cups in it. We have Diamonds here, as a back-up in case our modded cups do not perform well in the "Leprechaun" motor build......still looking for a lime-green S10.....LOL.

Any new developments?
 
Any new developments?

yeah, we spent 3 days this winter in at the machine shop, got our block checked(1986 660 casting, filled to the bottom of water pump holes with cement, no main distortion, or bore distortion from cement,magnafluxed, bored .030") machined/ ceramic coated our pistons( 17:1 compression, machined in house) got the original crank magna fluxed, and shot peened, turned .010" on the mains and rods, full balanced assembly, rebuilt the original heads, with hardened valve seats, lifted the valves up in the head .010", 5 angle valve grind, full ported, with custom machined diamond pre-cups( in house), custom built (in house) roller rockers(1.75 ratio), fire ringed, head studs, main studs, 5 pin girdle, .330" plunger pump, marine injectors,compounds (holset hx35w custom 12cm2 housing, gt4501 1.22 a/r) center mount turbo set-up built with weld els and v-band flanges ( all center mount and compounds and turbos built in house).... done a little bit, looking for 350-375 RWHP... maybe after we dyno we will post up some pics......;)
 
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