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Optic sensor maybe ?? using WVO & No start,

C

Chefboy

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pneese973 said:
here's my plan of attack....

1) change out LP with a known good one
2) change out injector nozzles with a new set of marine nozzles. I also have a pop tester, so I will pop test all the injectors and see if they have a good spray pattern before reinstalling. I ordered the marine nozzles last evening.
3) I just got a new battery, so I am going to install it.
4) bypass LP controls so it's always on with the key (at least for debugging)
5) check glow plugs and relay
6) try unplugging optical sensor since IP looks like it's never been off and may likely be bad
7) try advancing IP because we're very suspicious the problem I have is a dead stepper motor (it acts like it's retarded while cranking)

After doing this, we've eliminated the PMD, lift pump, fuel filter, optical sensor, glow plugs, and injectors.
Click to expand...

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, but am learning a lot. My question is in regards to the optical sensor... how does unplugging the OS affect the IP? Forgive my ignorance, but I'm unclear on what the OS does. Can the 6.5 run without the OS plugged in?

Thanks!
 
Chefboy said:
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, but am learning a lot. My question is in regards to the optical sensor... how does unplugging the OS affect the IP? Forgive my ignorance, but I'm unclear on what the OS does. Can the 6.5 run without the OS plugged in?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

The vehicle will run without the OS plugged in. The OS is a timing source, there are two, the OS and the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). It needs at least one to work. They check eachother for faults. Sometimes, if the OS has failed, unplugging it will resolve a conflict between it and the CPS and allow the truck to start. If either timing source is bad or unplugged it will force the vehicle into backup fuel mode, aka limp mode, where it will have high idle, and limited fuel capability as RPMs increase.
 
I would suggest a different approach than throw parts at it. First, your computer is not happy with the solid SES light on.

If the computer is not happy - nobody's happy!

You need the codes out of the computer to see what is going on. Then you can decide if this is related to the no start condition.

The lift pump pressure check is critical to easy starting - these engines are very hard to start without a working lift pump. I burn mine out often as Biodiesel eats them up.

I would then get a 5 gal bucket of diesel and feed the engine off that. Who knows what is in the tank and if it doesn't smell like diesel it can be old, Biodiesel, pure vegetable oil... No hot restart can be from thin fuel.

Pull a glow plug or two that is easy to reach. Ether can quickly reduce hot glow plugs to charred nubs. (As well as bend rods or blow the heads in to low earth orbit from a extra strong whiff.) Glow plugs are not the reason for a no hot restart.

See if you can get an optical tach that works off a light and reflective sticker. You need 100 RPM min cold to start the engine. Starters, internally corroded battery cables, grounds can all slow you down.
 
Okay from your other post in Dec. I see you are dabbling with alternative fuels need to know more on that front as optic sensor can be compromised with wrong blend of fuel you are experimenting with. So post up what you are doing with that and your questions here in this thread I assume are about a new to you issue ???? or an ongoing one you have had for a while now ?
 
What is the opacity of the fuel in your tank now, possibly too dark for optic sensor to "see" through, how long have you been in a no start condition, does it never start, or are you having an intermittent no start?

I'm going to separate this out into it's own thread it may help someone else out later to search for similar condition vs being hidden in another thread.
 
If youre just adding it, thats not very good, since to be even close to the viscosity of diesel fuel and opacity it has to be more than 150F. Or how do you mix them?

WVO should never be left in the system when you shut down, would need to be a dual tank setup with separate heaters, pumps and filters. Before shutting off the truck you cylce diesel through so very little WVO is ever left in the IP. If WVO and diesel are mixed it can make the diesel cloudy from different opacity and they probably dont mix as well, especially when cold.
 
X2 WVO added by itself is not good practice I suggest trying to run some straight #2 from a separate source if possible, if that can't be arranged you need to pump out what you have in the and refill with #2.
 
I may have given the impression that my vehicle won't start, but that is not the case. My initial comment/question was merely my desire to understand what the OS does because of the original comment thread. But since we are now on this topic, I'll address some of my mods.

I have a 44 gln fuel tank in my '95 Sub, and I've never used more than 10 gallons of filtered WVO. I built a filtration unit out of a 55 gln drum that I can heat and the filter down to 2 microns. The oil I use is allowed to settle before prefiltering. The unit uses a 10 micron prefilter, heats up to remove any residual water, and then runs through two more filters and a goldenseal water blocking filter.

The way I mix it is to prefill 5 gln diesel cans with some diesel, add my filtered oil, and then add some Diesel Kleen and Heet (red bottle- just for good measure) water remover. This cocktail is shaken well, loaded into the sub, and then a trip to the local fueling station follows. I then fill the tank with about 20 gallons of diesel, and top it off with my concoction. This is followed by a 10 minute "drive", during which I use my maneuvers to mix the fuel. The process is completed by topping off the tank with more Diesel.

Results: the engine runs much smoother and quieter, and I get about 14 mpg. In the heat of summer, with 12 glns of WVO, the temp got a little high, so I upgraded to a 180 degree t-stat. In the cold of winter, I rarely added any until temps hit the 40's, and still was careful of the quantity. I've recently added fuel line heaters, but haven't finished the install. I'm installing a new fuel filter (built in elec. heater and coolant heater) with water/sediment filter, & I'm also upgrading to the double t-stat cooling system with a fan upgrade. 4" exhaust is also on it's way.

Sorry if I caused any confusion! I'm always looking for input though.
 
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