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OPS: Standard vs AC Delco

handcannon

Well-Known Member
Messages
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Location
Albany, OR
I'm posting this mostly for information for others to hopefully keep them from going through what I did. If this info helps others understand and keeps them from wasting time and money on non-AC Delco OPS's my time and frustations are worth it. If somebody is in the same spot I was in with an aftermarket OPS and is having unexplained problems maybe this will help them.

I got my 94 K2500 Chevy in Feb this year. It was a project as the PO slid on ice and smacked a tree in Dec 09. In early April I was able to finally start driving it. I did a bunch of checking and discovered the OPS was bad, not powering the LP. I went to the parts house to get a new OPS but all they had was a Standard brand item, part number XIP PS245. Being anxious to get a new OPS installed so I could drive the truck I got the Standard OPS and installed it. Then I read in one of the forums I haunt (don't remember which one) that only the AC Delco will hold up over time, too late. I noticed right off that the oil pressure gauge was reading about 15 pounds less than before. No problem I thought, I can compensate for that mentally since I am aware of it.

Fast forward from April to late May. I was in town running at an idle in a parking lot, fortunately not in traffic, when the truck just out of the blue died. It would not restart right away. After a bit of cranking it stumbled to a rough start. My first thought was PMD problems since I had been reading so many posts about that problem, but mine was remote mounted.

Nothing happened for about a week, Then it happened again, fortunately still not in traffic. Restart was the same. By this time I was connecting the hard restart to similar times I have had with my 83 6.2 truck and air in the fuel problems with it. I had also noticed my fuel pressure gauge at times showed 0 PSI. After this time I put a chunk of clear tube on the IP return and sure enough, air bubbles. Also, when I pulled the stock return line off I heard a "boiling" sound, that lasted for about a minute, coming from the fuel tank. Hmmm, vacuum in the tank. I loosened the cap a little bit, drove it some, and checked it. Sure enough, vacuum again. I left the cap loose and drove it some more. No more vacuum.

The third time it died I stopped at the end of my driveway to go to the mailbox. I checked the fuel cap, it was still loose so no vacuum. Somewhere along here I had noticed that with a cold motor I had fuel pressure, but with a warm motor I lost fuel pressure. I had done the OPS relay mod when I origionally changed the OPS and had also wired in a push button to run the LP to bleed air out when changing fuel filters. So with a warm motor I would use the push button any time I had to let the motor idle and had no more problems. It did die one more time, but it was my fault since I forgot to use the push button to keep the LP running.

I then did a temporary wire bypass for the LP. I ran a wire from a switched hot under the dash to the LP fuse on the firewall. This worked, no more dying. However, I soon discovered it worked too good. When the motor was warm everything ran as normal, but when it was cold the motor would not shut off. The OPS would supply 12v when it was cold and this 12v would not shut off with the key, essentially feeding back and bypassing the ignition switch. I could turn off the ignition switch and pull the key when the motor was cold and it would stay running until the OPS warmed up enough for the LP circuit to fail. By this time I had already ordered an AC Delco OPS and was just biding my time waiting for it to arrive.

My conclusions---I was dealing with multiple problems. (1) I need to modify my fuel cap to keep from building vacuum in the tank. (2) My new aftermarket OPS failed less than two months after install. (3) The LP, age unknown, is getting very weak and was having trouble overcoming the vacuum buildup in the fuel tank. (4) Since the LP was not working all the time, the IP was sucking fuel from the tank, creating vacuum in the fuel line. I had been having trouble with fuel leaking from the filter after doing the feed the beast mod, but I thought I had that cured. However, the vacuum in the fuel line created by the IP was apparently allowing some air to be sucked in somewhere around the fuel manager. This showed up as dying when allowed to idle for very long.

I replaced the OPS today with the AC Delco that I ordered. The LP is now working all the time, only at much reduced PSI since it is getting weak. As soon as I can come up with the funds I will be replacing it. Also, I will eventually replace the fuel manager with probably the Racor 230. And I still need to modify the fuel cap to keep vacuum from building.

Because of having a fuel pressure gauge and having done a lot of reading on this forum I had learned a lot about diagnosing these kind of problems. I just hope my post here will help somebody in the future.


Thanks to everybody who contributes questions and solutions.

Don
 
good work, you worked through it like a champ.

It is good to note that there should be some vacuum in the fuel tank, or at least there is meant to be some by design and the cap is supposed to vent it only to a certain negative pressure. The more fuel you use the more volume of vacuum there will be but maintaining the same negative pressure. So a properly working cap should regualte that.
 
Thanks buddy!

I understand that a slight vacuum was a design feature, but I'm old school. I grew up in an age before all this smog garbage. All fuel tank caps were vented for the gassers. I'm not sure about the diesels since there weren't very many around, even on the local farms, and I didn't know anybody that had a diesel.

It is well known how GM made many compromises on these motors. I just can't help but think this was a brain fart on their part. It just doesn't make sense to me to have a vacuum in the tank and make the Lp, that is weak to begin with, have to overcome that vacuum to keep the IP fed.

Don
 
I am not sure if I can link this from the other forum about the OPS:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249105

They actually admitted the problem. I am not sure if the fixed one has arrived at the store but my suspicion is that the not up to spec one is still out there. There are some users that reported success using the aftermarket lately but it is still very scarce.
 
The vacuum serves a purpose to keep constant surface tension on the fuel, its not necessarily for emissions. Gasoline doesnt froth and foam like diesel fuel sloshing around in air.
 
The cap should never allow a vacuum; air has to get in to replace the removal of fuel by the pump It should only not allow venting. Otherwise, the vacuum would start collapsing the tank once it was high enough. Normally on approximately 1/2 full or less tank when cap is released in warm weather, you will hear a whoosh. This is the release of the pressure build up. Suck on the nipple on the inside of the cap. (clean of course) There should be no resistance. Blow on it; there should be no flow. If these both pass, the cap is OK.
 
The woosh is air being drawn in, then you pump fuel and it displaces the air back out of the tank. The cap holds a constant vacuum so it doesnt ever get too much, that is its purpose. If vacuum gets too great it vents back to low vacuum. Or it is supposed to, a bad one will allow too much vacuum.

If you suck on the inside and it allows it to vent thats because too much vacuum vents. Vaccum (sucking) opens the vent to allow some air in until negative pressure is back to correct amount. It doesnt sit at atmospheric pressure, that would be difficult to prevent swapping of fumes.

When I went searching for a reference I actually came by a post from gmctd on another site, where he also says cap should hold it to 2" of mercury.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-38165.html
 
The whoosh is actually air being blown out. Take a kleenex and separate the plies...lay it over the top of the cap while you loosen the cap on a warm day, say with 1/2 or less fuel. If the kleenex gets sucked into your tank, I'll remove it for you.(unless you have a defective cap) It'll blow away from the filler neck. The slight suction??? is from overcoming the spring tension to open the check valve to avoid a vacuum situation to prevent tank partial or complete collapse and also to avoid fighting the suction of the fuel pump as it draws fuel out of the tank. Granted a fair amount of fuel is returned to tank after supplying, lubricating, and cooling ip and possibly injectors, but it'll be less than supplied by pump. Less as throttle and load increased. As far as the bubble theory from the other site???, I won't argue that point as maybe it is possible, but since we draw fuel from the bottom of tank, bubbles will rise to top of fuel level and not be really be a significant issue worth debating. Point is, you have pressure in some small amount (never used a gauge to check it), and virtually little to no vacuum. Suck on the check valve as I suggested...you'll see that the valve unseats with next to no suction. Wipe fuel off nipple first to avoid diesel breath and taste.:eek:
 
Hmmmm.... so I should probably get a fuel cap to replace the gas cap the PO put on that I drilled a hole in? I did it to get rid of the vacuum... too late since my 42 gallon tank now holds 32 gallons to to being collapsed.

I am in the market for a new tank.
 
My very first issue after purchasing my 1995 was the OPS was bad, I was out of state on a fishing trip & installed the Standard brand OPS that was last year in Oct about 17K miles ago. No LP relay still working fine...

I have a brand new AC Delco OPS setting here & will install it but not until the Standard chits the bed...

Maybe I got lucky & got the updated Standard OPS...???
 
I suffered the same Standard OPS problem about a month after I installed it. I returned it and got an exchange. Although, only after I promised to purchase a socket made for the sensor......seems they didn't like me taking it out with water pump pliers! I usually don't do stuff that way, but it was hot and I was.....well, not happy, lets say. I can promise that the next time it will be replaced with an AC Delco unit.
 
Yeah it was.(it was actuall it was a 94, but I'm suprised you remembered it!) I also replaced one in a neighbor's 94 K3500 last summer and it's bad now. I'm gonna use a Delco unit and put the relay mod on it for him next week.
 
I suffered the same Standard OPS problem about a month after I installed it. I returned it and got an exchange. Although, only after I promised to purchase a socket made for the sensor......seems they didn't like me taking it out with water pump pliers! I usually don't do stuff that way, but it was hot and I was.....well, not happy, lets say. I can promise that the next time it will be replaced with an AC Delco unit.

Mine only lasted about 6 weeks. I could have asked for a replacement but I don't want anything to do with another Standard. Not reliable enough for me. If they have changed them to make them work properly I'm still not going to consider them. As the saying goes, "Fool me once shame on you, Fool me twice shame on me".

I used a 1 1/16th" deep socket for the AC Delco, fit real good, but the Standard was too small so I managed to make a 1" socket fit, just barely

Don.
 
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