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Opinions on reverse cooling our 6.5's

M

Mike K3500

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I did a lil bit of Google searching, but haven't came up with much info about it... Do any of you guys think it would be beneficial to the 6.2 / 6.5 platforms to cool the heads first.. ??

Mike
 
Interesting. Don't circle track cars use it to help shed high heat? I don't know much about it? Hard block doesn't adversely affect the 6.5 I don't think.

Wonder if heads would run too cool or shock cool. Guess it depend on how you get thermostats plumbed. That is one advantage of current set up fast opening to max when fuel is added as stats see heat quick.
 
Do we have issues with heads running hot? Anyone measure head temp? How is the Dmax or other new diesels done? Reverse cooling helps but AFAIK, gas engines benefit the most as it reduces detonation, which we have plenty of, :skep: :rof:
 
All of teh DURAMAX's still use standard cooling flow, but I think the new FORD 6.7L has reverse cooling flow. I believe GM toyed with the idea on the 4.5L 1/2 ton engine that never came to fruition. The trouble I see is ny reverse cooling flow you then would be putting extra heat through the block which asd many know is a weak area as well.
 
I don't think as much heat is transmitted through the block vs the heads. Otherwise putting hardblock in the water jacket would cause problems I would think.

I am guessing the thermostat reaction time is maybe one of the biggies??? Then maybe trying to normalize the head temp to keep all cylinders realitively even and warm but not too hot. Of course I am just thinking about running coolant pretty much in reverse through stat housing w/o stats. Might need add input flow to back of heads???
 
If the heat is causing the heads to crack, which I don't think it is, then reverse flow will probably solve it but IIRC, the heads crack because they are cast too thin.
 
A while back, iirc, heath sold a thing to aid in the cooling of the back of the heads. I can't remember the name right now, but I do remember turbine doc had one for a while on his truck. I don't think heath sells it anymore, why? Didn't work out so well, not enough of a market, too pricey? Just not sure.

I would think that a product like water wetter would of some value, imho.
 
Balance Flow. I've got 635's old set up in a box downstairs.
New and Improved GM Water Pump he uses in the cooling kits made it moot as the volume went from around 70 / 30 to more like 52 / 48 percent driver to passenger side.
 
I've been running Balance flow setup for years now, Bill quit selling them because his source to make them became cost prohibitive, plus his "Balanced Flow" setup he sells now with restrictor, retuned clutch- pump & stats keep things cool.

I don't think head heat is as bad as some think, with a well maintained system one should be fine, biggest problems in past IMO were folk relying on the 260F redline for temp vs. 210F as the limit to start looking for issues. Dirty cooling stack probably did more to cause issues than we will ever know, then bad fan clutches as the next culprit, and WGs that did not close fully making engine have to work harder to do same work.

Adding a remote electric fan cooled transmission cooler IMO helps a bunch when towing big, less trans temp for the radiator to manage less issue with high heat overall.
 
littleboy said:
Vans don't seem to have the trouble cracking heads. At least on the ones i have worked on .
Click to expand...

I think vans have a bigger rad and better air flow thru the rad. My van never gets above 195 even when it was 30 deg C, I was in the mountains foot to the floor and A/C cranked. I have only had my turbo on for a few weeks but even going up hills, temp doesn't move. Towing my enclosed trailer foot to the floor n/a, never got hot either.

Turbine Doc said:
I've been running Balance flow setup for years now, Bill quit selling them because his source to make them became cost prohibitive, plus his "Balanced Flow" setup he sells now with restrictor, retuned clutch- pump & stats keep things cool.

I don't think head heat is as bad as some think, with a well maintained system one should be fine, biggest problems in past IMO were folk relying on the 260F redline for temp vs. 210F as the limit to start looking for issues. Dirty cooling stack probably did more to cause issues than we will ever know, then bad fan clutches as the next culprit, and WGs that did not close fully making engine have to work harder to do same work.

Adding a remote electric fan cooled transmission cooler IMO helps a bunch when towing big, less trans temp for the radiator to manage less issue with high heat overall.
Click to expand...

I've cleaned out my customers 98 rad, his is all stock cooling and he tows a massive 5th wheel, doesn't run hot.

What about tying the cylinders together at the rear for more flow and to alleviate stagnant water back there?
 
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