Opinions needed on suspension lift

[HemisAreSlow]

I am looking at going with the new BDS high clearence 7" suspension lift for my truck....mainly looking at BDS because aside from cognito (which no off road shops on the east coast seem to have ever heard of) it is the only lift I have found that does not drop your torsion bars.

The quote i got from a local well know lift shop is 1,399 for the lift using blocks to lift the rear end here is the factory link installation is 699 and shocks are 39.99 each for basic ones or I can upgrade ( I was thinking bilstiens resivour)

or 1,899 for the lift that uses springs to lift the rear at a cost of 799 to install and same deal with the shocks here is the factory link for that one

I would add a steering stabalizer to which ever kit i go with


What would you guys go with? I am pretty ignorant when it comes to suspension components....i do use my truck for work from time to time and still tow decent loads with it....also I'm pretty rough on the right pedel...truck has intake, full turbo back exhaust and edge race evolution typically run on level 3 when not towing..... any and all feedback would be great...also looking for any vendors to chime in via pms if need be on alternatives and suggestions with prices. Thanks...Mike

 

[Ed HD]

I'd go with springs. 1 or 2" is ok for blocks, but that's a lot more twist on your springs and rear end.

 

[12ga diesel]

I agree with Ed, if you are using your truck work-wise and towing, I would be smart with lift and keep the blocks at 1" or 2" for the rear end. If you were just going for show or off road clearance, then I could see you going as big as you could or wanted to. Anything more and I would imagine you would be putting more strain on the rear end of the truck when you are towing and for reliability while working, I would put the lift on it, but not go balls to the walls.

 

[Cumminalong]

I'm not a fan of lift blocks AT ALL.

We just had this discussion on another forum about this very issue.

I have a customer with a 3500 dually, 22.5" wheels with the G-rated tires and he put a 6" lift on. He's running, some of the usual upgrades, but he's also running a bigger turbo and sticks.

I told him this was not a good setup (suspension wise), but he bought the truck that way.

He took it to the track a few weeks back and those blocks allowed so much axle wrap it spit the block out, dog tracked the rear axle, broke the driveshaft and made a helluva mess of the track.

My .02.....avoid the lift blocks.

The blocks are for pavement princesses, mall crawlers and driveway divas. If you're going to put any real power to it (which even a stock diesel does), do it right and replace the springs.

Besides, blocks don't add any performance, you still have the same suspension travel. Replacement springs packs usually add a bit of travel and USUALLY ride better than factory.

See what kind of springs that BDS kit uses. If they use Deaver springs, it'll ride better than stock.

 

[HemisAreSlow]

my only concern with the springs is their capacity...I have a 3500 SRW...the kit is designed for a 2500hd....my 3500 has more rear springs from the factory that a 2500hd would...so would I technically have a 2500hd after the lift? not that there is a huge difference anyway

 

[Cumminalong]

The only real difference is, what, the overload springs.

Nothing a set of airbags can't cure.

:thumbsup:

 

[Nor-Cal Nick]

On the rear spring question it comes down to what you are looking to gain the most of. A lift block is easy and less money, that will not change the ride in the rear from before as of the suspension leaf section. If you want a better ride then you can go with a high quality leaf spring that will be progressive but if you haul alot you will need helper bags, due to the "progressive" design they will sag under heavy weight because they will not get stiff till they are deep into there travel...hense the name of "progressive". You can get replacement lift leaf springs but the ride will get stiffer on the cheaper brands because you pay for the lift not for the better ride + lift.

On the flip side rear blocks are not all that bad if using them in the right ways and in the safe sizes. I say you are ok up to a 5.5" rear block if all you are doing is mild towing of stuff not all that heavy. Also if you are doing big HP mods and trying to stick it to the ground then lift blocks are not for you.


As for suspension you stated for vendors to pm or chime in on what they can do for you....question, are you doing the install or are you needing it done by a shop? If you must use what they sell then you are limited to them but if you can take the truck and suspension in to have it installed then we have other options to offer. I have done many of these trucks and know what works for what use so matching product up to each customer is what I specialize in. I just was thinking it sounded like you have to go with that BDS kit

Hope the info above helps.

 

[HemisAreSlow]

I do not have to go with the bds kit...It is just the only one I have found in my area that does not drop the torsion bars....nick please pm me with what you would suggest..i can either install it myself or go to another shop I know that will install it.....I do have a 25' gooseneck trailer that I haul 2 jeeps on so I think the rear leaf springs and bags would be the way to go...I would hate to see a block come loose....I also drive with a pretty heavy foot...I see a built tranny in my future someday so that is also a concern...Mike

 

[Nor-Cal Nick]

I'll send you a PM on packages.

As for the rear leafs if you have the big over load leaf pack then depending on what size tire and wheel you are looking to run you can do just a block and helper bags and still be safe because the large over loaded 3500 springs sit taller already. Check this load out and I run 1.5" rear blocks on my dually set up running the Cognito 4" NTBD kit and 35's:thumbsup:

 

[HemisAreSlow]

what load?