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Opinion on Steering Wheel Position

Big T

Big T

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After finishing the procedure to tighten the steering box, replacing Pitman arm, Idler Arm and bracket, upon putting it back together the steering wheel was cocked to the left. With dwindling light, I hastily pulled it apart, adjusted it and put it back together. Much better, but not perfect:

1357686377.jpg


That's a shot of the wheel position when driving straight. It requires a tiny bit more pull to the left to overcome the crown in the roads. Should I pull it apart and seek perfection, like one more tick to the right? It is a biatch to get the steering column slid onto the steering box, especially by yourself.
 
Tick = splines on the shaft going into the box. I was able to rotate the wheel/column over a couple splines and reinstall. Before this it was cocked about 2" more to the left. It is hard doing it yourself trying to get the column angle of attack correct with the box (man that sounds good) and the wife did not want to leave her sewing machine.:mad2::nonod:
 
Stop to stop are the turns the same? This would show you if you are a spline off or you have a bent draglink etc.
 
WarWagon said:
Stop to stop are the turns the same? This would show you if you are a spline off or you have a bent draglink etc.
Click to expand...

Haven't counted (seems the same), but why would it change from stop-to-stop?

Here's the measuring tool I've been using:
stanley2.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
if you look closely it soes have a alignment spline but it can be overcome if you loosen up the clamp enough.
 
ak diesel driver said:
if you look closely it soes have a alignment spline but it can be overcome if you loosen up the clamp enough.
Click to expand...

There was a natural fit and that was the first attempt which resulted in it being off. I pulled the bolt out, spread the clamp some with a big screwdriver and you're seeing the result of the second attempt.
 
I thought they adjusted that amount out with tierods? Mine is off a little and always straight after a front end alignment. Some have asked and I try to remind them when I take it in that the wheel is off a bit.

I think raceday mechanic has a write up on it.

But if its driving straight and front end is aligned its personal preference.
 
Theres a flat on the shaft that cannot be overcome if you look at it closely. If the wheel is off center, you need to adjust the tie rods to correct it. The shafts are splined and set up so you can't change the relation of teh wheel to the steering box because steering boxes since the early 90's have what is called a heavy on center feel to them. When the steering box is dead center it will have a heavier feel to it than it does a 1/16 of a turn to either side. This is done so you know when the steering is straight while driving. When you do the steering box adjustment this is the tight portion that you felt when you adjust the preload bolt on top. If you changed the relation of the wheel to the steering gear box, you will have a tight portion in teh steering every time when it passes true center.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Theres a flat on the shaft that cannot be overcome if you look at it closely. If the wheel is off center, you need to adjust the tie rods to correct it. The shafts are splined and set up so you can't change the relation of teh wheel to the steering box because steering boxes since the early 90's have what is called a heavy on center feel to them. When the steering box is dead center it will have a heavier feel to it than it does a 1/16 of a turn to either side. This is done so you know when the steering is straight while driving. When you do the steering box adjustment this is the tight portion that you felt when you adjust the preload bolt on top. If you changed the relation of the wheel to the steering gear box, you will have a tight portion in teh steering every time when it passes true center.
Click to expand...

It drives perfectly straight when I let go of the wheel, but it's just slightly cocked. I saw the flat spot on the shaft to the steering box and thought the same, but that is for the bolt and it definitely has leeway. When I first set it, the bolt head was pointed out at a 45 angle towards the fender well. Second and third times I set it, it was pointed straight up. I was able to change the wheel position noticeably by pulling it off and resetting the wheel. I did it a couple times and after the first one, it kept settling at this position.

Please explain how you could set the wheel position by adjusting the tie rods without screwing up the alignment? It's driving perfectly straight right now. Definitely heavy on center as I can let go of the wheel and it just stays straight.
 
You adjust the one side out, and the other side in the same amount to center the wheel. you don't center them by trying to change teh shaft orientation as it WILL mess up the heavy on center feel that is built in to the box. it's very common to have to readjust teh steering wheel center when yo uchange steering boxes as they are all a little differently clocked on the splines I have found on the pitman shaft. i've had some on JEEPS change a 1/4 turn when changing steering boxes because of it.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Theres a flat on the shaft that cannot be overcome if you look at it closely. If the wheel is off center, you need to adjust the tie rods to correct it. The shafts are splined and set up so you can't change the relation of teh wheel to the steering box because steering boxes since the early 90's have what is called a heavy on center feel to them. When the steering box is dead center it will have a heavier feel to it than it does a 1/16 of a turn to either side. This is done so you know when the steering is straight while driving. When you do the steering box adjustment this is the tight portion that you felt when you adjust the preload bolt on top. If you changed the relation of the wheel to the steering gear box, you will have a tight portion in teh steering every time when it passes true center.
Click to expand...

I second this, when i put my box & steering shaft together it only fit 1 way correctly.

This is one major reason i like my Wrangler. I do my own alignments on it. Very simple. Just too many variables in the IFS tie rod setups for me to mess with.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Theres a flat on the shaft that cannot be overcome if you look at it closely.
Click to expand...

It can be overcome and isn't hard to do accidentally. I have used a mirror to set it and been a spline off. Also turning the wheel with the bolt loose will pop it and slip it a few splines. The aftermarket Borgson shaft doesn't have a flat.

The side to side rotation count is used to make sure you have it centered and don't have other issues like hitting the stop in the box before you hit the wheel stop for a turn. My drag link was bent and caused a smaller circle on a left turn and a larger circle on a right turn with the wheels at full lock. This turn radius difference was because we hit the stop in the box before the wheels hit their stop.

An good alignment suspension shop generally won't charge extra to set the shaft properly as part of an alignment. IFS needs an alignment often as well as torsion height adjustments and alignments after height adjustments.
 
WarWagon said:
It can be overcome and isn't hard to do accidentally. I have used a mirror to set it and been a spline off. Also turning the wheel with the bolt loose will pop it and slip it a few splines. The aftermarket Borgson shaft doesn't have a flat.

The side to side rotation count is used to make sure you have it centered and don't have other issues like hitting the stop in the box before you hit the wheel stop for a turn. My drag link was bent and caused a smaller circle on a left turn and a larger circle on a right turn with the wheels at full lock. This turn radius difference was because we hit the stop in the box before the wheels hit their stop.

An good alignment suspension shop generally won't charge extra to set the shaft properly as part of an alignment. IFS needs an alignment often as well as torsion height adjustments and alignments after height adjustments.
Click to expand...

Aftermarket shafts I could see being splined al laround without the flat in them. And the centering is also for the heavy on center feel. This became a rather large issue for DODGE as many would try and adjust the steering wheel center by the steering shaft instead othe drag link adjuster. It resulted in enough steering concerns a TSB was issued for it. And these are the same steering boxes that GM uses basically. If you ever adjust one, you can EASILY feel the heavy on center spot when you are adjusting them.
 
OK, I once again tried to remove the Pitman arm from the '99 steering box after soaking it in PB, but the air impact wrench would not do it. So I whacked it a couple times with a BFH and voila!!, it came off.

I noted that it does have a large flat spot on the input shaft. I also noted while driving that the '95 steering box now on the '99 does seem to have a bit less turning radius. The wheel has 3 full turns from stop-to-stop and basically ends up in the same place on each side.

So, should I tighten up the '99 steering box and put that back on? Or just leave the '95 on it?
 
People drove around with the reduced turning radius for yrs w/o issue. Imo if it doesn't bother you in day to day driving then I would leave it and keep the 99 for back up and maybe reseal it.
 
IMO after having driven my BURB with both the 95 and an ARG which has the 97+ turning radius, the new style is hands down superior. Parking in pull in spots used to always be a 3 point job with the 95 box, but with the ARG it is a simple pull in job now. It was far and away MUCH better, and it has slightly more power steering force to it over the 95 box.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
IMO after having driven my BURB with both the 95 and an ARG which has the 97+ turning radius, the new style is hands down superior. Parking in pull in spots used to always be a 3 point job with the 95 box, but with the ARG it is a simple pull in job now. It was far and away MUCH better, and it has slightly more power steering force to it over the 95 box.
Click to expand...

Damn. Well I'll order a new Moog Pitman Arm, tighten the '99 and get it ready to install. We'll use the tightened '95 on the '94 as that needs to be done.
 
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