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Ok the turbo stopped working tonight

Crankme69

Crankme69

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I have to check & see if my Vac pump chit the bed or if it's the wastegate solenoid.

I wanted to keep my vacuum operated wastegate but if that vac pump is bad I'm prolly gonna go to a homemade TM...

What would you do?
 
I would call Walking J and go big. But that's just me.

Wastegate Solenoid's can sometimes be revived with a little Panther Piss (WD40).

If you ditch the vacuum pump, you'll either need a chip or a resistor added so that you won't throw codes.

Good luck!
 
same here on my e-bay truck. I can move the wastegate freely at idle, and i pulled the line off the pump, and put my pinky over it, and felt nothing. Is this precise enough that I wouldnt feel anything even if the pump was good? as is I need to buy a vaccuum guage to be sure?
 
This reminds me of about 2 weeks before I bought the ATT. Turbo started acting funny and boost was suddenly just dropping off. Then for an entire week I had to drive with no boost cause the bloody wastegate was just dumping all my power out the tailpipe.

Then the ATT came in and I was happy again:D

Come to think of it... I still haven't replaced that solenoid :haha:
 
I'm late on this one, but it looks like the guys have all the good information out already...

If your truck has an "S" in the VIN, it has an EGR, which means you have some decisions to make...

- you don't have a chip, so a turbomaster won't really be effective for you - you'll have to keep the boost way low to avoid the dreaded 78 code
- you do have an EGR, so if you have no vacuum, you'll be getting constant EGR codes. Again, because you don't have a chip. telling your PCM your truck is an "F" and to ignore the EGR.

I would tend to think this is a boost solenoid issue, if you aren't seeing EGR codes... if your pump is dead, you would be getting codes for both. You really need a vacuum gauge to check, though... you should have over 20" vacuum after the pump (before the solenoids), 16-20" after the solenoids at idle (so measured at the turbo actuator, or at the EGR). If you have vacuum before the solenoids but not after, either the solenoid is pooched or the electrical is at fault (fuse?) - either are cheap.

If there is no vacuum at the pump, then you either gotta do a new pump or change it all over - Turbomaster, EGR delete, chip (tell 'em you want to delete the EGR!), and possibly pump-ectomy and shorter belt... depends on how involved you wanna get.
 
Install a Heath or ??? chip and a turbo master and be done with the aggravation.

If you dont want to install a big exhaust just order the chip accordingly.

I would go the exhaust route with the chip and TM these things run sooooooooo much better.

My DaHooooley runs feels and sounds like a big block rather than a 6.5 (except for the lttle rattle up front)


MGW
 
Thanks I'm gonna give a look see tonight if I get home from work before daylight runs out...

I'll give a shout back after I find out what's what.

Thanks again all

PS had to pull the ole trusty 7.3 out from behind the barn...has not been started in a month or so it rattled to life after a couple cranks, man I don't need 2 trucks but I just can't get rid trusty lol!
 
Crankme69 said:
Thanks I'm gonna give a look see tonight if I get home from work before daylight runs out...

I'll give a shout back after I find out what's what.

Thanks again all

PS had to pull the ole trusty 7.3 out from behind the barn...has not been started in a month or so it rattled to life after a couple cranks, man I don't need 2 trucks but I just can't get rid trusty lol!
Click to expand...

Gotta love an old reliable IDI!
 
BigBlueChevy said:
Gotta love an old reliable IDI!
Click to expand...

Yup ole trusty has been one very reliable truck!


Well I had my Son take a look see for me. The Vac pump is pulling vacuum but the wastgate is not controlling the boost it's like stuck. The wastegate does move free when the motor is off...

Any ideas, sounds like the wastegate solenoid but I hate to throw parts at something without being sure...

Soo what's next hmmmm?
 
Ok now I'm cornfused for sure.

I came home & just started by checking the vac pump with a hand held gauge, that's pulling plenty of vacuum. So then I checked the line the feeds the three solenoids & that was also pulling good vacuum the same.

Then I checked the turbo actuator, just moving it while placing my finger over the inlet nipple, that seems to hold.

So here is where it gets interesting or confusing to me anyways...being that my EGR is plugged, I disconnected the crossover tubing that feeds the EGR vent & EGR solenoids & baro sensor. Hooked up the vacuum hoses from the vac pump to the wastegate solenoid & tee'd in my hand held vacuum gauge into the line that runs the wastegate actuator, took the truck for a little ride boost worked fine truck ran great but the EGR was setting the SES light.

So just for shits & giggles I removed the hand held and plugged the baro sensor into the outlet of the wastgate solenoid that feeds the wastgate actuator...hooked my lab top and turned on the GMTD scan tech and took a little ride...MY EYES were BIG as could be when the calculated boost was reading 12 psi at idle and would spike to 26 when mashing the go pedal to the floor then would level back out at 16~17 psi and even more WEIRD is NO SES light WTF???

That's a calculated boost right? I mean the boost was not really running at 12psi at idle and then jump up into the mid 20's under heavy acceleration...I only ran it around the block & shut it off, dark now & temp is dropping here. I will hook up the hand held to the intake next to read actual boost.

Man I wish that I had a clue what the fudge all these really means...planning to pick up a new wastegate solenoid tomorrow am but now I really don't even now if that's the problem or if one of the other EGR solenoids or maybe the BARO sensor is fudged up...

Help please before I destroy a great running truck...
 
Something you might want to check with a turbo problem is the crossover pipe to make sure you are not losing exhaust due to a broken or rusted through crossover pipe. I had problems with codes on my 1998 and after checking everything out I accidentally discovered that the crossover pipe was rusted in two causing me to lose exhaust gases. This caused an intermittent turbo boost issue which initially looked like a boost sensor problem.
 
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