Oil

[matuva]

My NAVISTAR (Ted's engine), is on the way.
I will use a custom low stall converter with Buddy's chip.

I'm willing to keep this setup working as smooth as possible, so I bet oil choice is important.

I'm used to put Shell products in my cars. Rimula X 15W40 in my engine, and Dexron III in the trans.

The engine I have actually eats oil (about 1 liter/ 1000 kilometers). A friend told me to try the Mobil Delvac 15w40. I immediately
notice better engine start, less oil consumption, and my mileage increases.

Though, I think Shell is a good oil... What could explain differences between oils?

The only ones we get here are Shell, Mobil, Total, Cofran, Bardhall and Castrol

Which one do you use? Should I prefer synthetic or no?

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I would reccomend running regular 15W40 SHELL ROTELLA if it was mine. I know my 6.5 would gulp CASTROL down to about 1 quart every 500 miles, but would only use 1 quart every 5000 miles with the ROTELLA.

 

[btfarm]

I've been running Mobil Delvac 15W40 lately and I don't see any difference between that and Shell Rotella 15W40 in my engine as far as oil usage. Either one is about 1 qt in 6k-7k miles

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Chevron Delo 400 is also good. I have used Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, and Chevron Delo. I would personally rate the Shell Rotella, last, with Mobil Delvac first, and Chevron Delo 400 a close second.

 

[schiker]

The additive packages are proprietary and somewhat different. They are all compatible and same viscosity and probably similar base etc. i thought i read / heard rotella had some foaming and aeration problems with ford and oil driven injectors but was quickly fixed. And I am not saying it was or is bad oil. You may have been getting older product vs fresh. I shake up about everything except beer , soda, and wine ( swirl the wine).

Freshness is important as well as keeping it mixes up so additives don't drop out.

 

[tanman_2006]

I used Rotella 15/40 and my 93 chugs that stuff. Since I've gotten my 95 running I did one oil change of 1000 miles of Rotella 15/40 and used 1/2qt (doesn't burn amsoil 15/40), changed the oil using Rotella again but added Auto RX 16oz and am at 2500 miles and have used less than 1/4 of a qt. It is recommended to use Rotella with auto rx or else I would Delo 400 15/40.

I am using Rotella t6 in my Dmax with auto rx (doesn't use oil but it can't hurt), after this is will go back to amsoil or mobile 1 5/40 synthetic.

I used Rotella in my case tractor and it chewed that up, I switched to Delo 400 and it slowed down quite a bit.

 

[GM Guy]

I love Mobil Delvac 1300 super. take note of the 1300 super part. it is what one usually gets, but there is also Mobil Delvac MX, which is slightly lower grade.

with the 1300 super, I havent blown up a 6.5L yet! (fingers crossed) good oil PSI, decent consumption, etc.

 

[WarWagon]

Synthetic tends to make the GM oil cooler lines leak at the crimps even with new GM hoses. Use synthetic if you are getting extreme as I pushed dyno oil past it's limit and scuffed a piston. I generally run what is on sale. I would boil off or burn 1 qt every 500 miles towing heavy. Shell Rotella I was going through by the 5 gal pail. Other brands didn't appear to slow down the oil use at WOT pulling a trailer through the grades. Factory turbo and heads just running too hot. New CDR and all.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

I don't think I burn any oil at all in my 06 LLY. I guess I am lucky.

 

[tanman_2006]

I don't think I burn any oil at all in my 06 LLY. I guess I am lucky.

My lbz does when I tow heavy but it's not anymore than 1qt/5k miles and that's with synthetic. With Dino (Rotella) I have used over 1qt/1k miles.

 

[WarWagon]

To clarify my 6.5's used that much oil. The Duramax (2008 and 2005) didn't use oil. (1 quart in 1K miles is normal to me and I don't recall they even used that.) However B99 in the 2008 with the post injection for DPF cleaning made oil and got me a phone call from the lab about viscosity failure. (thin oil @ 10K miles on oil.) Figure it was up 2-3 quarts or more.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Yikes. I have used B99 for a few tanks in the past but I never got any bad UOA's showing any fuel in the oil. I only have 93K on the odometer so far. I'll have to start checking more frequently. I am also using Mobil 1 Synthetic.

 

[WarWagon]

Yikes. I have used B99 for a few tanks in the past but I never got any bad UOA's showing any fuel in the oil. I only have 93K on the odometer so far. I'll have to start checking more frequently. I am also using Mobil 1 Synthetic.

Post injection with the DPF is what makes oil. You get some with normal operation on non DPF engines as well. Enough to keep an eye on it or change the oil sooner. B99 does not evaporate out of the oil like #2 does. The exhaust stroke injection event is where the problem is as the fuel doesn't burn. Some runs down the cylinder walls and into the oil. The rest burns in the DOC to heat up the DPF. As B99 doesn't evaporate as well as #2 the exhaust stroke injection puts some in the crankcase.

B99 is not as bad as #2 in the oil as it is thicker and has more lubrication.

The oil lab could not detect the B99 in the oil at all. They checked it for fuel twice and we even sent in a reference sample of B99. They were unable to explain the low viscosity with lack of a fuel dilution reading.

2006 should not be as big of a concern.

We were pulling hard and the regen would try and run in town after a hard pull. The B99 and low speed operation in town made after a hard pull it worse no doubt.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Thank you for that info. I did not know that. I will be more cautious in the future, and still do more checks of my oil. :thumbsup:

 

[saratoga]

Kind of related... VW does not allow anything over B5 in the CR engines because of oil dillution from the post-injection. It just doesnt get the oil hot enough to boil the bio out. My last uoa showed a trace of fuel and there is no bio in the fuel here.