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Oil Pressure Sensor Issues, Brand recommendations needed

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Messages
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
On dad's 92, the OPS may be shot. The LP still works, but wqhen the key is on, engine off, it reads 35 PSI. We think sensor is shot, but the cluster may need work too. But 1st we will attempt changing the sensor.

So, finally the question ):h

Would you guys go with the GM/Delco switch?
If not, please give recommendations.

Also, it is at the rear of the motor in a shitty spot, right?

Thanks for any help guys!

(PS, getting the truck in shape to haul a engine fire dodge cummins to a friend 200 miles away this week, and then take in the 3i Show (ag show) at Garden City!) (needs clean title for another truck, burn't truck owner never reports anything, so titles stay clean!)
 
ACDelco brand OPS.

Location under the GP controller slightly toward the driver side of the Fuel filter. At least, that is the location on mine.
 
X2 on part and location, OPS on later models is under the driver side upper rear intake manifold runner, some of the aftermarket OPS's have short lives ACD seems to be longest lasting ones.
 
thanks for the input everyone. I will be buying an AC Delco off of Rock Auto tonight.

also, the symptom of it registering 40 psi engine off key on is because of the OPS right? or do we need a cluster?
 
GM Guy said:
thanks for the input everyone. I will be buying an AC Delco off of Rock Auto tonight.

also, the symptom of it registering 40 psi engine off key on is because of the OPS right? or do we need a cluster?
Click to expand...

Unknown, as there isn't enough info to do a diagnosis. However, the OPS is a failure-prone part, so starting there is good.

Once OPS is replaced, see if things have improved. Remember if you want to know cause, you need to only change one variable at a time - i.e. change one part at a time before re-testing.

For the earlier blocks, I recommend purchase of an OPS socket. For later blocks, I have found that only a crow's foot wrench will fit. In either event, you'll be laying over the top of the engine. I recommend putting padding in place so as not to tear up your abdomen.

-Rob :)
 
Not so fast, GMguy..

One of our vendors (Leroy) also carries that switch, and has it on an extension (so if you ever have to change it again, it's easy to get at). You might want to check out his page at PMDcable.com just to see if it's what you need, or if his price is what you're looking for.

I agree with the other guys that you want to stay away from aftermarket switches though... too many guys have tried them and had to replace them in short order. The OPS switch draws 'way more current than the aftermarket switches are set up to handle.
 
I am going to get one of the extensions to bring the OPS up higher. When i am about to put my new engine in im going to do it all, along with new oil cooler lines.
 
TurboTahoe said:
Unknown, as there isn't enough info to do a diagnosis. However, the OPS is a failure-prone part, so starting there is good.

Once OPS is replaced, see if things have improved. Remember if you want to know cause, you need to only change one variable at a time - i.e. change one part at a time before re-testing.

For the earlier blocks, I recommend purchase of an OPS socket. For later blocks, I have found that only a crow's foot wrench will fit. In either event, you'll be laying over the top of the engine. I recommend putting padding in place so as not to tear up your abdomen.

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

by earlier blocks, you mean 92-95, right?

we';; try the OPS first, it is on its way from Rock Auto. (we got AC Delco)
 
GM Guy said:
by earlier blocks, you mean 92-95, right?

we';; try the OPS first, it is on its way from Rock Auto. (we got AC Delco)
Click to expand...

I worded it that way because I know my '95 Tahoe has a pretty easy to access OPS (just needed the big socket) and the '99 Burb has a pain in the patootie OPS located under one of the intake runners for the intake manifold. I don't know what year they changed the OPS installation position, only that they did sometime between 95 and 99.

Maybe someone else with more knowledge can chime in. (I just remember that a bunch of people said "It's right there under the Fuel Filter Manager, why can't you see it?" When I was trying to find it on the 'burb. I finally found it - and it is in an awful place. Some guys have removed the intake manifold and/or installed an extension - which is offered by one of our supporting vendors here.

-Rob :)
 
When I changed mine via OPS socket i was able to do with intake on, however, I was extremely nervous i was going to snap in in half due to extremely odd angle.
 
For the one under the intake runner (99 Burb), I had to use the crows foot wrench. I just could NOT find one in the 1 1/16" size, so I ended up buying a 1" crows foot and spending a few minutes with the dremel tool and a grinding stone. Works great now.

Good luck!

-Rob :)
 
TurboTahoe said:
For the one under the intake runner (99 Burb), I had to use the crows foot wrench. I just could NOT find one in the 1 1/16" size, so I ended up buying a 1" crows foot and spending a few minutes with the dremel tool and a grinding stone. Works great now.

Good luck!

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

You gotta love DIY tools... people look inside my toolbox and ask "Where did you buy THAT wrench? I've never seen one with a 45* bend in it like that." LOL :D
 
JiFaire said:
You gotta love DIY tools... people look inside my toolbox and ask "Where did you buy THAT wrench? I've never seen one with a 45* bend in it like that." LOL :D
Click to expand...

Right on, Jim. Sometimes people look in my tool chest and wonder why I have "mangled tools"... No, not broken, just modified for specific jobs!

:iagree:

-Rob :)
 
Out of school, finally got filled in at home

The new OPS fixed the guage issue, it will zero out with key on.

According to dad, with the socket, it was actually not bad to change.

So the truck got fixed in time to make the trip with the junker dodge 3500 on the trip down, and on the return trip hauled an offset disk and a IHC crew cab truck cab & 8 foot bed. 10 mpg down, 11mpg back. all and all not bad for a stock 6.5L:thumbsup:
 
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