Oil cooler replacement w/ pics

[Rodd]

Well it is done. I replaced my oil cooler w/ the one from Lubrication Specialist. I will try to detail it out w/ pics so the next guy who wants to attempt this mod will have an easier time that me. It really wasn't that difficult. I didn't think it was going to be that dirty of a job. Boy was I mistaken. I did clean up under there but it just allowed me to stay a little cleaner for about 5 more minutes than if I didn't clean at all.

I will try and do this in order so hopefully y'all will understand.

1. Use some engine cleaner and a pressure washer. Unfortunatly when I got started my gas can was out to gas so no pressure washer. I just used the hose w/ a pressure attatchment. Worked but not as well as I would have like. I also used some brake cleaner. That seemed to work best but gets expensive. I got the tech brake cleaner from wally world for $1.96.

1.1. Drain the oil!

2. Remove the front cover/grill to expose the Oil cooler. There are 4 screws that take a 5/32 hex to remove. There is a white tab on the left and right sides that comes up from cover onto the black frame. There are 2 more approximatly 12" in from the outside screws. They are set back in a little cubby hole.

3. There are 3 tabs, one on each side and one in the center that hold the bottom down. I sqoze my arm in from the top and lifted the connectors that hold the tabs to the frame/bumper.


4. Disconnect the 3 light on each side. The outside ones twist and pull out. The 2 inside ones on each side you push a tab and twist to remove.

5. Here is the grill removed. You can see the oil cooler on the right, the trans cooler on the left, the a/c condesor (I think) behind them, and then the radiator just before the fan. (I may have gotten the a/c condensor and the radiator mixed up. I didn't pay much attention to which was which.

6. Unscrew the oil cooler. There are 4 bolts at each corner. I think they are 10 mm. I tried to disconnect the lines from the cooler but they wouln't come. So, I removed the plastic cover in the right whole on the bumper. Then I used my sawzall to cut the lines. It would probably be easier to saw them prior to unscrewing the bolts so the lines are firm and don't move. You will get some oil leaking out so have something ready to catch the oil.

"Continued"

 

[Rodd]

7. "On 4X4 only" Remove the ujoint for the front drive shaft.

8. Remove 90 degree filter fitting. It takes a 32mm socket to remove. This would be a good time to replace the orings in it as well. I took mine off because I added a bypass filter. That will be in the next thread on how to add and oil bypass.

This one shows the 90 already off. I removed the stem from the 90 and screwed it in the block filter housing. Like I said earlier this is for the oil bypass.

9. Remove the oil lines at the block. There is a clip that comes out w/ a pick or a flat head screw driver. The lines pull strait out however it is a pita to get them out. The header gets in the way. I used my sawzall again to get these out.

The lines are in the top right of the photo.

Here they are removed w/ the oem connector still in.

10. Unscrew the oem connectors using 1 1/4" wrench. It is slow going cause you only have a little room to move your wrench. Start w/ the lower one then the upper one.

Here is the clip and the oem fittings removed. The clip is hard to see on the right.

"continued"

 

[Rodd]

11. Now it is time to start installing. As you can see it was dirty behind the cooler. I vacumed and sprayed it out.

12. Put teflon on the threads of the 45's and screw them into the cooler so they face each other. The tapered end out, it goes to the braided line. Then screw on the braided lines and insert lines down behind bumper and screw in the 4 bolts connecting the cooler to the brackets.

I removed the stock line clamp and used the ones the manufacturer sent.

I reused the stock line holders for the one under the block. The ones that came w/ the kit were a pita.

Continued

 

[Rodd]

13. Screw in the 90's to the block. They are 1/2 npt. I used a 3/4 inch open ended wrench on 1 side and closed on the other as well as a screw driver. When the open ended would fit I used the closed end over the thread carefully. Once I felt some resistance I stuck the screw driver in the whole and turned it. Do the upper first then the lower. Us a 1" open ended wrench to fasten the braided lines on the 90's.

14. Reconnect the 90 degree oil filter adapter and new filter.

15. Reconnect drive shaft.

16. Reinstall the lights and grill.

17. Pour in fresh oil.

Voila you're done almost. Start her up and check for leaks.

Hope this helps the next guy.

 

[mfgguru]

Good job! Your truck was a heck of a lot cleaner than mine. Thanks for the pics contribution. We will have all the different DIY jobs on here yet! FYI, that is the same kit I put on. Wonder why GM had to make it so difficult?

 

[Rodd]

Good job! Your truck was a heck of a lot cleaner than mine. Thanks for the pics contribution. We will have all the different DIY jobs on here yet! FYI, that is the same kit I put on. Wonder why GM had to make it so difficult?

Because they want the dealers to do the work. $$$$$$$$

That's why I love this website.

 

[Schwind]

Thanks for the how to. It will definently help me when I have to replace my lines and cooler. Hopefully this will get into the sticky's so I can find it when the time comes. Nice pictorial, good job. If we all keep contributing like this it won't take long to surpass the other site that has so many good post from the members here.

Would you post the part number for the kit and for anything extra that you may have had to buy to get the job done?

 

[nobby]

Nice pics and info well done and thank you.
FYI though there is no need or point in doping/taping the threads for the flare fitting ends. The seal is made on the flare seat faces and should the seat leak after tightening doped/threaded tape will not stop it as the fluid can and will still leak where the female nut rotates on the hose end. Good quality flare fittings will not leak once tightened up unless of course the face is scored somehow and then the cure would more than likely be a wee bit of gasket goo on the flare face only. Furthermore it pays to put Anti-Sieze on the flare threads to make it easy to get them apart next time.

cheers
Nobby

 

[Sunshine]

Thanks Rodd...This is going to a big help when it`s my the time to have fun...
and as Schwind has mentioned hopefully this will put into the Sticky`s..

 

[Pillow]

FWIW On my installations I did not disconnect the driveshaft. Granted it is hard to get up in there with the wrench for the block fittings.

Great write-up! I see a new sticky in the library

 

[JiFaire]

Great job, Rodd! This write-up is on a Sticky, and is already a featured item in our fast-growing 6.5TD Technical Library...

Thanks for taking the time to show us all how it's done!!

Jim

 

[Rodd]

Great job, Rodd! This write-up is on a Sticky, and is already a featured item in our fast-growing 6.5TD Technical Library...

Thanks for taking the time to show us all how it's done!!

Jim

Man I can't believe it. I have finally been published!!! Two times in the same day. I better go out and buy a lottery ticket

I just want to acknowledge again those that came and did before me.

 

[mitchedo]

Along with the teflon tape someone else pointed out, be careful not to deform or scratch the flare if you use a screwdriver in the hole. I dropped one of the 45* fittings on my kitchen floor, dented the flare and had to buy a new one. Stupid ceramic tile.

I'm installing mine while the engine's out. ...should go a little easier that way.

 

[treegump]

Just curious - but how long did this take you? Should I set a saturday aside for this (4+ hours) or could I do this after work (2-4 hrs)? My oil is so thin the insides are clankin...or that's what i'm figurin, anyways.

 

[dangerousdave]

Just a hint;
fire it up and pressure test BEFORE you put the grille back on;
you can guess how I know why.

 

[Matt Bachand]

GIve yourself a Saturday.

That way you're not rushing, can take your time and do other maintenance if need be, youre gonna get filthy,... Get some large cardboard if you can and line the ground with it.

 

[treegump]

GIve yourself a Saturday.

That way you're not rushing, can take your time and do other maintenance if need be, youre gonna get filthy,... Get some large cardboard if you can and line the ground with it.

hm...i'll be visiting family this weekend...i wonder if my parents and g/f would mind if I did this in the gravel driveway as the entire rest of the family come by to visit, haha. (Actually I would probably never get it done then - too many questions and family asking me if I'm crazy for taking apart my truck:mad2

 

[Rodd]

Matt's right. If you have never attempted this give it a Saturday and take your time.

 

[treegump]

Alright - thanks!

 

[snoman699]

Excellent post!:thumbsup:

Your timing is perfect. I've been putting off replacing my lines/cooler (LubeSpecialties) and remote bypass filter setup (AMSOil) since summer. (needed the truck for haulin')

Looking forward to see your thread on the remote filter installation.

Cheers.
Mike