Nv 4500 help me

[countryguy828]

Alright guys, whats wrong with the picture here....

A few months ago I started haveing problems with the trans turning over even with the clutch pushed in. Today I pulled the trans back and re-greased the input shaft thinking this was the problem, it was dry as a bone and a bit tacky. Got it all back together and the problem still persists.

I have changed Master and Slave cylinders, rebuilt tranny, inspected the clutch disc flywheel and pressure plate. All this about a year ago.

The problem has gotten worse over time. Its now to the point I have put it in 4x4 low, first gear, held brakes to the floor as hard as possible and the truck still moves forward.

Clutch disc now frozen to the flywheel after sitting all winter?

Dave

 

[packratt]

Fill out your signature so we know what we are dealing with. Click here to fill out yours.

Good chance you've broken the center in the clutch disc. The OEM and LUK clutches are prone to doing this. Mine was doing that when I replaced the clutch.

 

[countryguy828]

It has a LUK clutch in it with around 30-35k miles on it.

I only pulled trans back enough to regrease the tip of the input shaft. I didn't wanna pul the tcase off so I couldn't slide it back any further to look at clutch disc itself.

Thanks
Dave

 

[packratt]

What pilot bearing did you use? Did you use the old style solid bearing or the newer roller bearing? The roller bearings have a bad habit of failing and welding themselves to the nose of the input shaft. Cure is to use the old style bearing.

Check your clutch slave cylinder. I had one with less than 12,000 miles fail.

There are only so many things that can keep the clutch from releasing.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

check your slave cylinder. If no luck there then most likely a messed up pilot bearing

As stated above. lol

 

[countryguy828]

I put in a Brass Bushing the first time I took the trans out. The bearing turned into powdered bits of dust. I think all subsequent problems since was do to the crappy grease NAPA told me to use. Probably fighting the sticking input shaft has cause more problems and clutch failure.

I really don't wanna pull the trans out in the dirt again, need to make room in the garage eventually. Currently I have 2 tractors in there torn down for restoration. Anyone need a Farmall A?

I was hoping regreaseing would have been the quick fix so I could get this truck on the road again so I could work on ole gassey, water pump and brakes went out the same day last week! Has a damn vacuum leak for the last 5 yrs that needs fixed too.

 

[Odlaw]

Did you check the pivot fork and ball? mine did the same thing - I was busting master cylinders mashing the clutch so hard. Had the clutch replaced and the shop handed me my old pivot fork and ball...well there was no ball - just a bump with a grease fitting on the other end - it had worn a big hole right the the pivot fork. I guess PO didn't know what that grease fitting was under there for.

If thats all good, I would have someone mash the clutch (with truck off) :rolleyes5: while you get under there and look through the inspection hole and see if the master and slave are actually moving the clutch fork.

 

[schiker]

Regreasing a '98 what do you mean?

I don't think you are suppose to grease the "bronze oil impregnated bushing" its suppose to be self lubricating. I think grease in the bellhousing attracts clutch dust and makes a lapping compound that accelerates wear.

Older trucks have a zerk to grease the ball/pivot for the clutch fork but thats it. And regular greasing helps. But not the concentric slave cylinder no maintenance via lube. I think you are suppose to flush and change the brake fluid in the hydraulics at about the same time you flush the bake lines. Something I really haven't done and address it when one or the other fails.

Later trucks the roller bearing has a seal and I think it is suppose to be lifetime lubed. I think that's the problems the seal fails then clutch dust contaminates the grease dries it out and or makes lapping compound then wears the rollers down or causes them to skid instead of roll and they deteriorate.

Could be a bad spring in the pressure plate or sprung apart (broke) hub that catches a PP finger.

Bad slave or Master which could have failed prematurely due to a bad excessive force pressure plate issue???

Is it pulling from start up in all gears? Can you get a higher gear to slip the clutch when starting up in gear?

 

[packratt]

A 98 doesn't have that type clutch slave cylinder setup. The slave cylinder is inside the bellhousing and fits around the input shaft for the transmission.

Some freeking engineer got paid a bonus for coming up with that setup.

 

[countryguy828]

Can't get the clutch to slip at all. In 4x4 low 1st the brakes won't hold the truck, anything higher kills the motor.

Up until last weekend I was able to drive the truck OK, once I got to a stop I had to make sure it was already in gear and once stopped you could feel something break loose then hear a bit of a squeling. I could feel the clutch engage properly when letting out as well. This is what led me to believe the input shaft pilot bushing needing greased.

I beleive this has been my problem all along everytime I have had to take trans out. At least 4 times now. Each time was right about 5000 miles. I think the grease was breaking down causeing the input shaft to stick. I think it just caused more damage this time before I had time to fix it. I think flighting it when it would get bad it what wore out the 3rd gear synchro making me rebuild the thing.

Nothing is ever easy for me...........

PackRatt, is the zoom clutch worth the extra $$$$? I pull a GN trailer with this truck in the 10,000# range. Though it hasn't been hooked up since maybe Oct and that was only about a 40 mile round trip, and it was empty the whole time.

 

[packratt]

Only have about 10,000 on the clutch. Did have 20 tows of my 20' trailer with 4 round bails on it. Also a couple with 2 in the bed 2 on the trailer with tractor and loader on the trailer as well. That was probably topping 10,000.

Clutch disc looks fine when I pulled the engine to replace the cracked block.

I did a bunch of research before buying it. Looked like the Zoom and Southbend clutches had the best opinions and the Zoom had the better price.

The center of the old clutch disc had broken with one spring out and fingers of the pressure plate hanging on another spring.

 

[packratt]

I figured I was better off getting a more expensive clutch rather than paying to have it replaced.