• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

NV 4500 Help Me Update... Clutch Fubar

countryguy828

6.5 Lover
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Just like Packratt suggested, clutch is gonzo...

I think with the lack of lube on the pilot bushing caused it to wear bad. This allowed the input shaft to drop a little and bind up the clutch disc which is now destroyed.

I knew something was way bad when I saw the clutch off center with bellhousing still on
offcenter.JPG


Then with bell housing off this fell out at me
metal%20shaving.JPG


Next I got the clutch cover off to see a totally fubared clutch disc
clutchfubar1.JPG

clutchfubar2.JPG


Thanks for looking,
Dave
 
If you can swing it I'd replace both and resurface the flywheel. Otherwise you might get some chatter on launch which will shorten the new disc's life. Not sure of other issues.

Its one of those things while you are there bite the bullet and buy a new slave. Some slave cylinders come with a new release bearing included. so try and find a clutch kit that is just PP and disc. I wouldn't use the needle bearing in the kit.

Next time I am going to try the Kevlar bushing from south bend. As I have read good things about it. Only know one story of the needle bearing lasting a long time. It was on a dual mass 3500HD truck of the early 90's. Took the engine out for upgrade and clutch was still fine with 100K plus miles.
 
Alway put a new Pressure Plate and disc in at the same time. Just makes sense along with repalcing your rear main seal while your there. Just saves time and money later.:thumbsup:
 
We should be able to help you out with a new setup from Valair. Shoot me a pm and I can get you some prices.:thumbsup:
 
Scuttlebutt I heard was that a well greased solid bronze pilot bearing was the only way to fly.

I agree, nylon, I would also imagine Kevlar would be the same, will out wear metal. I would rather replace a bronze bushing than replace a crank because the pilot shaft was wore out. Bronze bushings wear a long time.
LeoEdit: I meant tranny input shaft, not crank shaft. My mind isn't what it used to be:smile5:​
 
Last edited:
I guess the real criteria is just how broke are you. When I bought my P30 it was in Kansas with a bad clutch. Got there on a friday and couldn't find parts. Finally managed to come up with a disc (helpful counterman started pulling disc just for comparison). Figured it would get me to my inlaws in Southern Utah where I could work on it better. Long and short of it was it worked so good I didn't replace it for 3 years. Then I did it right new pressure plate disc throwout .
 
You didn't post a photo of the flywheel or the pressure plate surface, but if you're broke, and have more time than money, you can replace just the disk. I did it several times when I was a kid in the old Mustang.

It will likely chatter some, and may or may not be grabby, but if money is tight, and time is aplenty, then change the pilot bearing to a bushing and put in a new disk. you're likely to need a new transmission input shaft as well, and perhaps its associated bearings.

If time is important to you, then new pressure plate and hydraulic throwout bearing with a flywheel resurface (or replacement if heat cracked) is in order.

Whatever you do, get several cans of brake cleaner and make sure all the grabbing surfaces are absolutely free of any oily residue.
 
Back in my no money days, I have changed just a disc, but I used
80 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface on the flywheel and PP,
hopefully take off some of the glazing
 
correct me if i am wrong this year does not use the center force relaase bearing and used a clutch fork so dont forget to look at the pivot ball on the case. it should have a small tit on it about 3/32 dia if i remember correctly. these damm things will cause so many problems.
wes
 
correct me if i am wrong this year does not use the center force relaase bearing and used a clutch fork so dont forget to look at the pivot ball on the case. it should have a small tit on it about 3/32 dia if i remember correctly. these damm things will cause so many problems.
wes

I'll be happy to correct you:D:D. His 98 has that (*&&(*& internal clutch slave cylilnder. I'm currently cussing the one I replaced a year ago on my 98.
 
i appreciate that when did it change to the center force. i know all about the ^&*(*&^$(*&^^^^ pivot ball also.. removed he trans 3x before figuring out the problem with the help of a great transmission shop..
thks.
wes
 
Back
Top