• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

No wts light

Deere Freek

Deere Freek

Recruit
Messages
333
Reaction score
1
Location
Hastings, MI
My truck died. It rolls over, all the lights come on when i turn the key except the wait to start light... Would the PMD cause this? I've checked everything with my limited knowledge, batteries have good charge, all the glow plugs have resistance on my ohm meter, turns over fast like it should but no starting. Any ideas?
 
Wire grounds on the back of the pass side intake manifold.......Strip and recrimp the eyelets, clean up the studs and tighten them back up.

AKA, WTS ghost.
 
That means your PCM is not getting power, you probably blew an ECM fuse. If the SES light is also not coming on with the ignition then thats it for sure.
 
ECM-B it is!! it ran for about 3 seconds and then it blew... went through 5 fuses. Anybody know what that might mean now?
 
If it's a slower blow vs an immediate one you need to (hate to say this again) check the gnds all circuits; poor gnd is gonna cause high current draw; if it was fast blow I'd say a hot wire broken & shorted to the frame, is fuse blowing just with ignition on or while running, you can start eliminating circuits by pulling fuses of stuff you don't need to sustain running I'd start with glow controller if it's contacts are melted and stay energized that is a high draw item tied to the PCM in a round about way, need to think what comes on with PCM saying "I'm ready to run".

As a test try with park brake on to see if DTRL disabled makes a difference.
 
X2 good one Buddy, I've seen a number of those where wiring at heater has pulled away from the heater element beyond wiring insulation, leaving bare wire though it's still connected to the heater
 
Found the problem. Started checking things out and one of the glow plug wires (drivers side closest to bumper) had melted to the exhaust manifold and was making contact. Pulled it away and no more problems. Thanks guys.
 
Right out in the open, with my luck it should have been under the turbo so i would have had to take off the inner fender...
 
If the fuel heater has a bad spot in the insulation when it energizes could be shorting to gnd and blowing fuses, I've seen several heaters that could fit that category, though I've never had one short before, but a likely candidate if harness has bare wire exposed.
 
Turbine Doc said:
If the fuel heater has a bad spot in the insulation when it energizes could be shorting to gnd and blowing fuses, I've seen several heaters that could fit that category, though I've never had one short before, but a likely candidate if harness has bare wire exposed.
Click to expand...

Additionally, earlier model fuel heaters have the wires coming through a hole in the side of the housing and protected by a "grommet". This grommet usually goes brittle and cracks away over time leaving the wires exposed to the thin, sharp metal of the end cap. Chaffing through the wiring resulting in a dead short to ground is very likely.

Later designs have the wire comming out the bottom of the heater in what looks like a resin or potting compound. My 98 is built this way.

:)
 
I have replaced 2 fuel heaters one in my Tahoe & the other in my 1500 both were due to them going to ground & blowing the fuses...when the fuse is blown on my 95's you have no power to the glow plug controllers & no turbo solenoids i.e. no boost & no glow plugs
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top