no start with new batteries

[Detroit Dan]

bought this 94 Sub last winter, came with two small mismatched crap batteries. One Walmart 525 cca, one no name. Always started a little slow, but always started, even at 6 below not plugged in. So I knew I needed batteries but I wasn't going to spend the money until I had to. Finally I had a couple close calls where it acted like it wasn't going to start, had to give it two or three tries. So, feeling like I was on borrowed time, I bought two new matching 800cca batteries, checked the date stamps and every thing. Made a new hot terminal for the passenger side because someone had rigged it together with a radiator hose clamp. Started right up, spun over nice and fast. For two days. Then I had a slow crank and no start, now I've got nothing, just a click. Tried redoing the terminals three times, can't find anything wrong. Tried the 50 amp charger on boost, nothing at all.

So, I'm suspecting it's not getting through to the starter. Maybe the battery cable to the starter broke at the starter end? I know that happened to me with my 97, all I had to do was drop the starter and throw a new cable on. Tried to drop this starter and couldn't get the bolts out with the 3/8 ratchet I had. Plus the tranny cooler lines are totally in the way, and don't have any play in them.

Any idea if my starter might be gone, or does it seem too coincidental to the battery change. I know running the old batteries was bad for the alternator, but it seems to be working, when it was running it said it was charing fine. I don't want to think my batteries are junk already, they should have lasted more than two days and a couple minutes of cranking.

 

[bison]

Dan,i would have the batts tested first,its not uncommon to have one go bad right from the batt.
If they test OK,focus on the cables and connections(also at the starter)
Running a starter with not enough juice hastens its demise so having the small mismatched batts could well have harmed the starter.
You may nee to use a snipe on the 3/8 ratchet to crack the starter bolts loose( better use 1/2")

 

[Turbine Doc]

All of Bison's recommendations true, here is one additional ? I've gotta ask, have you checked gnds ???? you need full juice to the starter, also if connections were as poor as you say previously possibly some internal corrosion under the insulation in spite of the new battery terminal connections so your batt cables may be bad.

Is the jumper between both batts clean/getting good flow, it is possible you are still only pulling thru 1 battery if that is a poor connection. One of the least expensive diagnostic tools every modern vehicle owner should have especially with multi battery vehicles is a load tester I think I paid $20 for mine on sale @ Harbor Freight

 

[JMJNet]

I got the feeling that the lower than requirement batteries before causes the cable to be corroded inside also.

The cables (positive to positive) may be bad, that is pending the batteries load test, one at a time.

 

[WarWagon]

Did you test the old batteries before replacing them? You have multiple problems that newer batteries and a connection repair helped. I would bet the brushes in the starter are worn out or you have another issue in the starter taking out 1/2 of the starter's power. Low voltage to a motor that browns it out can do damage. Higher temp spikes as it has to run longer and turning slow will use more current and generate more heat than a motor at normal speed. The brushes switching current at normal speed use less current than slower speed no matter the cause of slow speed: load or defects.

From the cranking speed improving and then suddenly failing is why I suspect the starter over a connection. Esp with the abuse she had.

 

[Detroit Dan]

well I wanted to replace the cables at the same time as the batteries, but I couldnt get to the starter end of the cable, and couldnt get the starter dropped down. Looked at the cables and except for the homemade garbage connection where the first pos goes into the second, they looked ok. When I made the new connection between them, I cut them back a half inch or so. No sign of corrosion at all. Checked grounds. Since I can't get under it and can't easily get the starter out, waiting for my cousin to show up with his ramp truck, we're going to tow it to his shop to use the lift and air tools. I've had enough laying under trucks in the dirt and rain. I'm going to replace the battery cables, and send the starter out to be tested and rebuilt if necessary.
I think you're right, leaving those crap batteries in so long was a bad idea, but since it kept starting, even when very cold, I just kept putting it off. It never really had to crank long, it cranked the normal time, just slowly before catching. Probably hurt the starter, then new batteries threw a shock right through it.

 

[Acesneights1]

Pop the nose off the starter when you take it out and see if a mountain of black crud falls out That will be your brushes if the starter is shot. The disc in the sol could be bad as well. Can't flip em on these like the big MT's

 

[bison]

Pop the nose off the starter when you take it out and see if a mountain of black crud falls out That will be your brushes if the starter is shot. The disc in the sol could be bad as well. Can't flip em on these like the big MT's

I think in order to see that, you better off to take the cap off the other end

 

[Acesneights1]

Actually It came pouring out the front when I took mine apart. I had pulled it apart to salvage the sol as it was good and I had a fried one handy and the starter was being turned in as a core.