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no fuel to injectors

Jason63

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North Idaho
i just put a reman longblock in, got ready to start, no start, so i checked glowplugs, they were fine, i took off two injector lines and cranked, no fuel, i bled the filter before that btw. when i say cranked i mean cranked, like 30 min to see if maybe there was air to get out, nothing. so i took my intake off the check connections, i forgot the fuel heater, but i haven't tried, will it hurt to crank it with the intake off, i just dont want to tear it down again if something is bad, which i don't think is the case because everything worked fine before the engine swap, other than the holes in pistons. but i have fuel to the pump, i checked and there is power to the pump on the pump side of the pmd, lift pump works. maybe a loose wire somewhere? is there a possibility that the pump air locked? everything was in a garage during disassembled phase, and was only out for about a week. sorry i know this post is a little unorganized but if you can decipher it can you suggest anything?
 
When you say cranked 30 min, I hope you are giving it 20 second cranks with a bit of time, maybe 30 seconds to a minute, in between to cool off. Open the T-valve drain and crank a bit, see if fuel comes out. That will prove you have pressure to the filter. If so, and you've checked grounds and PMD (do you have one you can borrow to plug in as a test?), I'm not sure where to go next.
 
yeah i let it cool down, prb an exaggeration, i checked all the connections today, i just dont see how it could have gone bad when it worked fine when it was on old truck, yeah its still mounted on pump, is there any way to test the pmd w/o computer? i also checked fuel to the pump, plenty of pressure
 
No way to check the PMD at all that I know of. I'd get a new one and a remote mount cooler and check it out that way. You really need the remote to keep it cool and it wouldn't hurt to have a spare.
 
i suggest you check all wiring and plugins of the engine harnass + all grounds for broken wires[continuity check would be the best if there happens to be a wire broken inside the insulation] and corroded or dislocated pins including connectors and wiring at the mainharnass back of the fuel filter. also check for working of the fuel shut off solenoid.I would not suspect the PMD at this time as it was working before
 
also check for working of the fuel shut off solenoid.

Its very easy to disconnect and remove, might be worth doing, make sure the plunger end is intact, then reinstall.

Is it possible you have a broken IP shaft (sorry to even mention it!)?
 
Its very easy to disconnect and remove, might be worth doing, make sure the plunger end is intact, then reinstall.

Is it possible you have a broken IP shaft (sorry to even mention it!)?

I dought the IP shaft is broken as it was working for you before. It is not uncommon though for them to break. As a matter of fact I am R&R'ing one this weekend for that.
FWIW Before I get ready to install I spin by hand the input shaft on every IP and hold my finger over the fuel inlet to make sure I get a vacuum/suction. If you can't fill a vacuum something is wrong.

If you do decide to buy a PMD/heat sink/ext cable kit let me know and I will get it out quick.
 
Silly question, are there any codes?

Does your glo-plug/WTS light come on? Does SES light come on when IGN ON, engine off?

Try pulling off optical sensor harness on top of the IP and see if it starts in limp mode
 
i don't have access to a scanner, yeah glow plug light comes on for 6 sec or whatever, and i tested the wiring and they are getting juice, either it doesn't come on or i don't have one, all i get is service throttle soon glowplug and check guages when key is on, i had to quit for today, ive ran the batteries down twice after trying stuff but i believe thats all there is, i already tried the ops still nothing, im thinking i might just have to get a new IP, i don't know what would have made it go bad but it seems like ive tried everything
 
You went into this motor swap a little lacking, but hopefully with all the people here will be able to get it running.

Sounds like you SES light isnt working, or you have a PCM issue of some sort. The PCM must be getting power to have the Glo-plug circuit working, so the PCM or ECM-IGN fuse should be fine.
Make sure the "guages" fuse is good if you have one in the fuse center.

It could be burned out bulb in instrument panel, and we can check some voltages to verify that before tearing into it.
 
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