Newbie with vacuum lines ????

[gnel]

Hello to eveyone. This sight was recommended to me by thefermanator.:thumbsup:
I am in the process of buying a 1995 chevy suburban 2500 4x4 6.5 td. The turbo was not working due to bad vacuum lines. These bad lines were not connected at the wastegate solonoid. I replaced the lines and the turbo is working but I´m not sure if I connected the lines correctly at the solonoid. Wich side does the line from the vacuum pump go to? The firewall side or the radiator side of the solonoid? Thanks for any answers. g
I almost forgot to ask. I want to relocate the pmd right away. I like the price of the pensacola kits are they a good product or is pmdcable better? Lastely can I leave the pmd on the IP and still connect the cable? Thanks again.

 

[Crankme69]

My truck has a schematic of the vacuum line routing on the fan shroud.

Here is a schematic of what mine looked like before I deleted the EGR valve.

HTH's

You can leave the old PMD mounted on the pump, plug in the extension cable there at the OEM location and route it out to the front bumper to install the new cooler & PMD. Leave the ground alone hooked up at the OEM pump location.

Check PMDcable.com Leroy is good guy to do business with...

 

[gnel]

Thanks a million crankme. This one has no schematic on the fan shroud.

 

[Crankme69]

Yr welcome, if ya had it hooked up backwards she'll have a lot of boost & prolly throw a code, don't ask me how I know :rolleyes5:

 

[btfarm]

Hey gnel, Welcome to The Truck Stop!
Alot of good guys here like Greg (crankme69) and Ferman that'll steer you in the right direction...:thumbsup:

 

[gnel]

Thanks for the welcome btfarm. Hey crankme I did have those lines reversed oops. What would happen if you kept running em that way? Oh yea how do I get my personal info at the bottom of the page like you guys got? Thanks g

 

[Crankme69]

If you ever have the chance to hold the solenoid in yr hand you will see the port sizes are different sizes for the supply and the return. The boost ran high on mine with the hoses reversed & it would code periodically.

 

[btfarm]

Oh yea how do I get my personal info at the bottom of the page like you guys got? Thanks g

Go to User CP at the top and then "edit signature". Just put all your info in there. Be sure to spend plenty of time looking around the other areas of the forum where we all have many discussions about all sorts of things. Particularly "off topic"

 

[gnel]

OK I hope it works?

 

[Turbine Doc]

Thanks a million crankme. This one has no schematic on the fan shroud.

Gnel welcome to the site, the schematic shown is for a S truck (EGR) what flavor of truck is yours, look at the 8th digit of the VIN code on door sticker or VIN plate in corner metal tag drivers dash seen thru the windshield.

95 2500 4x4 you are looking at most probably is a F coded VIN, so schematic is not the same, only one vac solenoid on that vehicle, and were it mine & you being in Mexico with possibly limited parts for a 15 year old vehicle, get rid of the vac pump and install a fully mechanical turbo master set up, and run a shorter serpentine belt

 

[gnel]

Thanks for the welcome TurboDoc. I am all ears. Can you tell me how to accomplish this "fully mechanical turbo master setup"? You are correct no EGR here. This site is GREAT! Thanks g

 

[Turbine Doc]

see this post Buddy linked you to http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showpost.php?p=291184&postcount=30

I don't see a boost gauge yet for you so IMO take deferred expense of new vac pump, and cost of a gauge and buy a TM from Heath, with a home brew TM you MUST install/run with a gauge, with a Heath TM you can install and forget it and save later for gauges.

reason for MUST have a gauge recommendation with a home-brew TM, you can close the WG just by tension it to keep the WG shut, that can cause engine damage if you don't know how hard boosting you are when at differing engine rpms, and a unknown spring the initial and full load tension is an unknown, so how your tension at any given engine rpm is unknown.

A Heath TM is a known entity, set it and forget it,

 

[Turbine Doc]

Thanks for the welcome TurboDoc. I am all ears. Can you tell me how to accomplish this "fully mechanical turbo master setup"? You are correct no EGR here. This site is GREAT! Thanks g

When you buy :thumbsup: or make a TM (IMO not best option but doable) then the vac pump can be removed and you run a 1" average shorter serpentine belt, you may have to try several so that belt tensioner is correct, then less items to fail, vac pump, vac solenoid, or vac lines.

 

[gnel]

Thank you TD for such a prompt response. This site is really amazing. I´ll check out the link. This is all new to me so I hope I don´t ask to many dumb questions. I just want to make this truck reliable from the get go. Thanks again g

 

[Turbine Doc]

Thank you TD for such a prompt response. This site is really amazing. I´ll check out the link. This is all new to me so I hope I don´t ask to many dumb questions. I just want to make this truck reliable from the get go. Thanks again g

Thanks for the Kudos be sure to tell all your friends :thumbsup: you have found the best 6.5 resource on the web not that I am opinionated or anything ):h

You'll find that we are pretty much a family of "gear heads" here with much been there done that behind us in multiple technologies, you name it, one of us here has probably got some expertise in it.

Our DMax guys know their "chit" as well, we also are conversant in lesser Diesels of the Stroke & Cummins varieties just funning around with some inter brand rivalries.

We try not to only be brand specific ( That said I'm partial to the GMC "professional grade truck builders brand vs the lesser ones) ):h many of us also are VW TDI guys, myself included, ya just gotta love 45 +mpg

Don't worry we'll soon have you up to speed in no time, once you get your feet wet try the search function possibly we may have covered a question in case one of us isn't on same time you are to provide a quick response also check out the technical reference library thread at the top of the 6.5 headers above.

 

[gnel]

Hey TD I don´t think that link to buddy was the right one? Its getting late and I´ll check back in the a.m. Saludos g

 

[Turbine Doc]

Hey TD I don´t think that link to buddy was the right one? Its getting late and I´ll check back in the a.m. Saludos g

2nd picture below the pic of the upper plenum shows a home brew (self made) TM

 

[gnel]

Well I didn´t go to sleep instead I checked out that Heath TM. WOW! Thats gonna happen soon. I´ll call Heath for more info. Thanks again.G

 

[Turbine Doc]

Here is a good thread on a home brew kit http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=24072

 

[buddy]

When you run a manual turbo wastegate actuator realize the PCM can no longer control the turbo. So it can cause DTCs to turn on the SES light and cause you to lose power. Thats if you arent running boost within 2 psi of what the computer expected. So a lot of people do it and it works, and in order to get more performance they also add a boost fooler so the PCM thinks it has less boost than you really do.

If your vacuum system still works there is no need to get rid of it. The truck will be most efficient and spool to peak boost faster with the vacuum setup.

And that money spent on a TM is better put towards an aftermarket PCM program first IMO, other peoples opinions differ. Some people have vac pumps that dont last and some last 300,000 miles.

If youre not interested in making more power and just making the turbo work as cheap as possible because of a dead vac pump, then a homemade manual actuator is the way to go and just dont tighten the spring much, just so there is no big black smoke cloud.

A manual actuator can get you more boost for better power on the stock PCM, mainly because the PCM allows 10 seconds of higher than expected boost before it throws a code. Adding a boost fooler (just a potentiometer on the boost sensor) you can run a little more boost.