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New wheels and tires for my K2500

pacificdrumma

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Location
CT
It was time for a new set of wheels and tires, and like most 18 year olds, I had no desire to keep my current stance, I wanted to go bigger, wider. The truck came with 245's on stock ride height when I got it, and when I replaced those tires, I turned the bars up 5 full turns, 1.25" roughly, and put the 285's on my PYO wheels, 6.5" wide with stock offset. The lift as well as larger tires definitely had a positive effect on the look of the truck. Later on, I got 2" billet wheel spacers for the back to even out the width of the rear axle to sit as wide as the front. The tires would sit about even with the widest point of the factory fender flares. The truck looked good. Those tires were Cooper Discoverer AT3's, a mild all terrain. I had no complaints of them other than tread wear. The tires carry a 55,000 mile road hazard warranty, but I got about 18k on them. Granted, I drive like most 18 year olds, and my alignment was questionable, but I was still disappointed in how they lasted. Good tire in snow, never got stuck with them, except for the last week I had them on. Per Coopers website, those tires are 32.6x11.45 or something like that when mounted.

When it was time to get new tires again, I decided to go a more aggressive route. In talking to a local 4x4/off-road guy with a very good reputation, I went with Nitto Trail Grapplers. They weren't cheap at $1150, but he swears by them and I have heard lots of good things about them. I have absolutely no need for M/T's, I just like how they look. I decided also to not use the PYO wheels. Nitto recommends a 7.5-9" wide rim for the Trail Grapplers in a 285. I picked up a set of 16x8 American Racing steelies for $80 and had them painted semi gloss black. These tires are a true 33x11.50, they might even be a bit wider. They look killer and so far, for the 60 miles I have put on them I am very happy with them. Not nearly as loud as I had imagined, so far good in snow too. Not as good as my Coopers in snow, but still good.

Enjoy some pics, I like the stance.

Here it is the day after I brought it home, 245's stock everything

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285 Coopers, no wheel spacers

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285 Coopers, rear wheel spacers

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And now, 285 Nittos, 8" wide rims with some offset, same rear spacers

1688063_10201739639555926_557764864_n.jpg


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Here is a good comparison for stance, Coopers on 6.5" PYOs vs Nittos on American Racing 8"

Coopers

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Nittos

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I think that technically I need one as well, but I never have it on when Im driving, and the cops around here leave you alone as long as you are respectful and responsible.
 
Since I want to eventually give my truck a clean, closer to stock appearance, I pulled the light bar off this past weekend. At the same time, I turned my torsion bars up another 5 full turns, for a total of 10 full turns up from when I got it, assuming that was stock. Rides very stiff now, less body roll, and you feel every bump on the highway. Not sure how I feel about that yet, but time will tell. Anyway, it sits nice and level now, and I really am digging how the truck is looking currently.

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1618708_10201771675676809_1510165994_n.jpg
 
At 10 turns, you're probably really close to being out of any necessary downward travel. I recommend against this for a number of reasons.

I wish I'd have seen your truck pictures before I put the dodge mirrors on mine, this past summer. Of all those I looked at, I never did find a photo from the angle I really wanted on the body/chassis combo I really wanted to see it on. Not sure when you put those on, but they look good.
 
Its weird, I still have about 3-4 threads left on each bolt. I plan on turning them back down one turn each, the ride quality is almost unbearable. I really like the mirrors too.
 
The threads remaining aren't, necessarily, an indication of how much more you can turn the bolts. Typically, you're looking at about 1/4" truck height adjustment per bolt turn. You're nearly bottomed out with as many turns as you've put on this - your front suspension can, almost, not travel downward anymore and that's never a good thing on the chassis. It's also unsafe because you eliminate the suspension's ability to force itself to make contact with the ground.

After you settle on a height you want, you're due for an alignment. Otherwise, you're going to eat your tires up quickly.
 
Or look into cognito upper control arms or maybe rough country makes some too. There is a downward bump stop under the upper control arm that is part of the inner frame mount, take a look at that to see if you have downward travel.

My 06 is fully cranked and still has 1-2" before it hits the stop. I feel it pulling a trailer or w/ a bale of hay on back.
 
Or look into cognito upper control arms or maybe rough country makes some too. There is a downward bump stop under the upper control arm that is part of the inner frame mount, take a look at that to see if you have downward travel.

My 06 is fully cranked and still has 1-2" before it hits the stop. I feel it pulling a trailer or w/ a bale of hay on back.

Having 1-2" of downward travel isn't much. Pot hole, dead-furrow, speed bump...
 
I looked today, and the bump stops were maybe 1/8" away from the control arms. Lowering the bars down 3 turns tomorrow.
 
I guess I am just weird/ have a different way of thinking, but I like the first pic the most. :)

still love long beds with cab clearance lights though!

the truck looks rust free, I didnt know that was possible in that area? must get washed often.
 
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