New Injectors and Glows

[Big T]

Doing injectors and glows on my son's '94 Suburban. Got the driver's side (aka easy side) injectors and glows installed and engine fired up. Took about 1.50 hours, coulda been done in 1.0 if I hustled.

Fired up the engine and it's noisier that before. Definitely more diesel rattle tap on the new injector side. The injectors were rebuilt with German Bosch nozzles. They were set to pop test at 2300 psi. Could that have anything to do with the increased noise? Before it was a very quiet for a diesel engine.

Next I start pulling original exhaust, crossover, downpipe, all to be replaced by mandrel bent Diamond Eye exhaust and Warp Speed Crossover from the '95. Then the injectors and glows on the passenger side, which I'm really looking forward to.:mad2:

 

[jeffrey98335]

Oh Big T,

You should have done the pass side first. I feel your pain.
Wow you guys are doing alot of upgrades all at once on this vehicle. I hope it all goes well. Did the water pump make it to you yet?

 

[jeffrey98335]

Yes,
The higher the pop, the more clackity clack you get, from what I have read.

 

[BigBearZach]

hey the passanger sides not that bad i just did head stud and injectors and it took me about a day the only real pain os just pulling the turbo

 

[handcannon]

You probably are already aware of this, but pulling the inner fender on the pass side will go a long ways to make changing the glows and injectors much easier. Also, since you're doing downpipe and DE exhaust also, removing the inner fender will help with doing them.

Don

 

[Big T]

Oh Big T,

You should have done the pass side first. I feel your pain.
Wow you guys are doing alot of upgrades all at once on this vehicle. I hope it all goes well. Did the water pump make it to you yet?

Just about everything, but the water pump arrived.

Injectors are a precautionary thing, as we don't know how many miles on the ones we took out.

We can do all the exhaust as that came from the wrecked '95.

We have the Dmax fan and clutch and I know from the '95 the HO water pump makes a significant improvement. Did not want to take the HO pump off the '95 as that would leave the engine open.

Colby has the adjustable OBD 1 programmer and that will be installed.

The turbo has a little bit of play, but the plan is to put an A Team Turbo in it.

Need to go through the front end like I just did on the '99. Bushings on the control arms, ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler, tighten steering box.

This is not a primary vehicle for him, so we can have it down if needed, though that is not the plan.

The passenger side was a PITA as usual. This was the first of the 3 Burbs we've had/have that we could pull the fender well, which made life easier. Getting the bolts back into the turbo drain line was a major pain. Two bolts on the driver's side crossover sheared off. Drilling and bolt extractor failed. My cut off tools (grinder and Dremel) are at our second home in Big Bear Lake. One bolt broke off flush to the manifold, the other sheared off below the bolt head. Plan is to cut the long one down, drill them out completely and just through bolt them. Done it before.

 

[colbythekid]

Or we could take the manifold off and replace it with the one in the garage or the one off the '95

Colby

 

[Big T]

Yes, I should do that. If I'm driving to Big Bear, I'd like to stay up there and continue on the electrical work up there. Sorta nice having all the spares as options

 

[Big T]

I'll note that this '94 had an aftermarket cap on the oil fill. We found the original cap when we pulled the fender well.:agreed::thumbsup:

 

[GM Guy]

always good to have spare parts and spare rigs!

I agree, should have done the right side first. I am glad I did mine that way. left side went alot quicker and was a relief compared to right side. mine was a little louder after injectors.

 

[Big T]

always good to have spare parts and spare rigs!

I agree, should have done the right side first. I am glad I did mine that way. left side went alot quicker and was a relief compared to right side. mine was a little louder after injectors.

I've replaced injectors before. I did the left side first, as I was working along. Then my son joined me to help with the right side. Not a big deal. Got everything cinched up, including the exhaust. Installed the spare exhaust manifold. That was interesting taking that off as I had to remove the oil filter adapter and the oil cooler lines.

 

[Big T]

Son drove the Burb around today and it's got leaks on the front and rear passenger side injectors. After resetting and tightening the fuel lines a couple times, I was able to confirm with my finger that the fuel is leaking from the mid-body seals. Definitely not coming from the fuel lines. Installed clear PVC tubing on the return line of the front injector and air bubbles develop in the line.

So do these injectors split up at the mid-body, thus explaining the seal there? I am contacting the rebuilder on the problem.

 

[colbythekid]

Son drove the Burb around today and it's got leaks on the front and rear **passenger** side injectors.

Drivers side, so at least it will be not as hard to get to them out and fixed.

Colby

 

[Big T]

Drivers side, so at least it will be not as hard to get to them out and fixed.

Colby

Sorry, it's the driver's side.:mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:

 

[ak diesel driver]

So do these injectors split up at the mid-body, thus explaining the seal there? I am contacting the rebuilder on the problem


yes this is where they come apart to change the internals/nozzle. Supposed to be lapped smooth enough to not leak without any kind of a gasket. obviously the rebuilder didn't pop test them much if at all.

 

[Big T]

So do these injectors split up at the mid-body, thus explaining the seal there? I am contacting the rebuilder on the problem


yes this is where they come apart to change the internals/nozzle. Supposed to be lapped smooth enough to not leak without any kind of a gasket. obviously the rebuilder didn't pop test them much if at all.

I've sent an e-mail to the rebuilder on this. He said they were all set to pop test at 2300 psi +/- 25 psi. They were Bosch German. The ones I removed are also Bosch German. Hopefully we can get this resolved.

 

[tanman_2006]

Kinda hard to get a good test on an injector if all of the fuel is squirting out the sides and you would think someone would have noticed that... I'm with AK...

 

[ak diesel driver]

in all fairness if they were in a hurry and only popped it once or twice it wouldn't be the same as in the engine running. but I would think the seam would b at least wet.

 

[Big T]

Wondering if it would be OK to replace the two leaking injectors with two from the ones that we removed? Would the 2300 psi pop setting on the remaining 6 new injectors cause a balance problem vs the unknown pop setting on the old ones?

Or should I just take two of the old injectors and have them rebuilt locally?

I'm still waiting for a reply from the rebuilder of these injectors.

 

[Will L.]

It is normal for fleet vehicles to only change bad injectors. It is not the best choice but I have done it many times by order of the boss man pinching pennies with no problems. If you send the other 2 back having them repaired while you drive w/2 old ones it shouldn't hurt anything.

Ak is right the proper procedure is to hold under pressure for 2 minutes (after final verification of pressure +10 cycles) to ensure no leaks. I would even consider sending all 8 back to him or a different shop to double check pressure if he missed this easiest part of the job detail.

I'm not sure which "Dad-ism" to use here- it's always faster to do it right the first time than to do it over Or if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. I feel your pain nothing worse than expecting what you pay for and being disappointed. I would hit him up for labor time or discount unless you use Him frequently and this is an oddball mistake out of his shop. He should pay for the rest of s/h charges regardless.