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New Injection Pump Shelf Life

MrMarty51

MrMarty51

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Miles City, Montana
Just would like to know, I would like to have one of these pumps on the shelf, just in case.
A brand new Stanadyne DS4 injection pump.
Apparently they have been dismantled, new seals and soft items replaced, pump tested and stored with test fluid in the pump.
Anyone have an opinion on the time frame of such a unit ?
Might could be ten years before its needed if the new remanned unit holds up.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions ?
 
I think we need to look at the storage regulations at army warehouses. For example, diesel fuel is stored for no more than 5 years. It needs to be updated.
 
Air inside the pump is not a good idea. Install a check valve on the inlet fitting, install a relief valve on the return outlet, It is necessary to apply voltage to the shut-off valve., Pump in neutral test fluid or oil with a booster pump under slight pressure. Rotate the pump shaft several times to fill all the channels in the distribution head.
 
Last edited:
denata said:
Air inside the pump is not a good idea. Install a check valve on the inlet fitting, install a relief valve on the return outlet, Pump in neutral test fluid or oil with a booster pump under slight pressure. Rotate the pump shaft several times to fill all the channels in the distribution head.
Click to expand...
I tried similar with the faulty remanned pump thats now on the truck.
Wanted to pump ATF into it.
DS4 dont play well on such terms.
I had it hooked electronically to the trucks harness, fed with a spare lift pump, suction side in a container of ATF.
Turning the pump by hand and could not get it to accept the ATF.
Mechanical pump would be easy.
 
It is necessary to assemble a small electronic circuit to control the FSD and rotate the pump with a drill.

 
denata said:
It is necessary to assemble a small electronic circuit to control the FSD and rotate the pump with a drill.

Click to expand...
Oh boy.
I guess I do have the components necessary to create such a device.
Now to get enough intellect together to build it.
I’ll need to dig up the wire harness components then put it all together.
I think a person would not need the CPS as the engine can be started with that unplugged.
Optic sensor would need to be plugged in but thats a stationary vision item I think. Nothing moving there unless it would be the rotating IP shaft.
 
To open the FSD, I used a signal from a low-resolution optical sensor. The sensor output is of the open collector type, it needs to be pulled up through a 10kOhm resistor to +5 V.
 
denata said:
To open the FSD, I used a signal from a low-resolution optical sensor. The sensor output is of the open collector type, it needs to be pulled up through a 10kOhm resistor to +5 V.
Click to expand...
I’m not sure what that would be.
I did a search fir open collector optic sensor and got lots of stuff I dont understand.

open collector optic sensor - Search Shopping

www.bing.com www.bing.com
 
The pump has two built-in optical sensors, low resolution and high resolution. No external sensors need to be connected. The one built into the pump is used. An open collector is a type of electrical output where the presence of a signal is a low voltage, and the absence of a signal is a high voltage.
IMG_20250602_110918.jpg
 
I am on the fence about ordering the new injection pump.
No word back from Quadstar tuning about if there is any sort of warranty.
My plan would be, run the remanufactured pump that is on the way until the two year warranty is up on it, then install the new injection pump and run it until it, or the engine dies, or even myself.
I’d put together the test bench like at what @denata has set up then give it a spin a couple times a year.
Probably too, order in a couple gallons of test fluid to run through it/them.
 
Run the two year warranty pump, and if there’s a problem, you have them replace it.

As to going along effort for long-term preservation of a pump, just disconnect the fuel hose on the engine and feed it some 10 weight straight oil if not available, 30 weight compressor oil I believe is a simple base oil without detergents.

A check valve on the input site is a good idea to keep it under low pressure during storage, provided you can find a check valve low cost. Otherwise, I know guys have just done the straight oil trick, running through it once to replace the alcohol containing diesel and stored theirs for several years successfully.
 
Will L. said:
Run the two year warranty pump, and if there’s a problem, you have them replace it.

As to going along effort for long-term preservation of a pump, just disconnect the fuel hose on the engine and feed it some 10 weight straight oil if not available, 30 weight compressor oil I believe is a simple base oil without detergents.

A check valve on the input site is a good idea to keep it under low pressure during storage, provided you can find a check valve low cost. Otherwise, I know guys have just done the straight oil trick, running through it once to replace the alcohol containing diesel and stored theirs for several years successfully.
Click to expand...
I was wondering about long term storage on one if the new pumps that has had the seals and gaskets replaced, then, run through the test stand/device to check operation.
Pump comes with the test fluid within and not diesel fuel.
Will L. said:
I see no point in replacing a pump under warranty with one you buy.
And there are enough people building new ds4 now that is squashed the worry of none being available afaik.
Click to expand...
Are there pumps being manufactured that has actual hardened components, unlike the early version of non Stanadyne remanned pumps.
 
The test fluid is supposed to be a far less flammable oil and I would guess nothing that evaporates easily since we have known gasoline to leave not happy residue behind even before they required our fuels to become alcoholics.

Afaik only the db2 has hardened parts made for the arctic pumps, not ds4.
Staying on top of fuel lube additives cures most of that issue.
 
Big T said:
Marty your reman IP worked for me during my brief test runs. At worst it is some sort of seal causing the problem. The hard components should be fine. Do not condemn it.
Click to expand...
I have another thread that I will get started.
Stanadyne instructions for the DS4 plumps.
It will take some time to get it all in a thread as it is very photographic intense.
I’ll try to get it all in tonight.
Total tear down, cleaning, inspection and reassembly.
I also would like to get detailed instructions, schematics and list of supplies that is required to put together a test station like what @denata has put together.
I dont understand a lot about electronics and wiring and whats required to build items such as what Denata put together to get that DS4 to function so in order for Me to accomplish such a feat I would need pictures, pin outs and parts list to put one together and that could possibly be included in that thread.
 
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