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New heath PMD still Codes?

pgguru

Recruit
Messages
194
Reaction score
1
Location
Hamilton Ontario Canada
Problem: I just installed my new PMD from heath and cleared my Codes and I am still getting Hard Start and engine light on.

Demographics: Ontario. Truck is in Underground 70F

- Year: 1995
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) C1500 Suburban
- Automatic or Standard Automatic
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 267000 KM_
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc)
Pump once replaced under warranty I just installed New PMD
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? F Turbo
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) 70F
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) Winter Diesel (Out of additive for Last 150L
- What fuel additives are you using? Usually But not on for a month
- Where are you located? Ontario

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter 5000km
- Fuel filter 5000km
- CDR Valve? ?
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at ??
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at 5000km synthetic



- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at year old Matched
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): 3 Weeks ago
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? last year What type? G9 (new kind)
- Injectors - last changed at ??


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? Driving
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? Truck runs great other wise
- Has this problem ever happened before? Had Code 35 when I bought the truck but 2 Stroke oil fixed it
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. ______________
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) y And? 18 and 35


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? y
1b] Does the engine crank over? y
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? y
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? y

1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? y 10 to 20 sec_
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? _________ For how long? _________
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? n_

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? ____________
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? _________
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? no

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) remote__
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? New Heath_
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. _good
3d] PMD Make:
3e] PMD Age: Brand new

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? no___
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) no
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? _________
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? yes
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups?yes
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? yes_
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? __yes
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? _no

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? no
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? _no__
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? __no____
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? __no__
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? __no___

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges? ___no___
6b] Maximum boost under load? ____________
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? ___no_______
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? _____no_______
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum? ____no_______

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? __single_____
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? ___no___
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? ___yes______
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? ___no__
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? __________
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? __no______

Thanks for the help.
 
Have you done the LP/OPS test? Questions 3's?
If LP/OPS is bad, then you won't have any fuel to even start.
In 95, the LP won't start unless there is Oil Pressure, if you have bad LP, you will have hard start.

In issues like this, that is the other culprit besides PMD.

Your GP, what is G9? Is that the stock GP?
 
With 18 and 35 there is likely another issue, but always good to make sure LP is working for hard start.

With OBD1 like 94-95 the LP is supposed to run as soon as you start cranking starter sends power to the LP relay, and oil pressure builds quicly after that and the OPS sends power to the LP. Verify the lift pump fuse is not broken. Then verify the LP works at all. With truck off you can put 12V to pin G of the OBD interface under the dash, which sends 12v to the LP relay contact when the engine is OFF and not cranking. The LP is on the rail below the drivers door. You might be able to hear it come on with the truck off, or open the drain valve by the thermostat and drain into a container to show its pumping. Do you have the large LP relay and fuse on the firewall passenger side? Or a whole fuse center there?
 
Last edited:
Hey pgguru - do you still have a filter harness on top of your IP? If so, remove it, plug the ends back in without the harness, clear codes, and see what happens when you start it again. With a 35 I'd also get some extra lube into your fuel - put a 1/2 cup of ATF into your fuel filter mgr, bolt it up and run it through.

Any idea how many kms on IP replacement?

Keep us posted.

Jim
 
There is around 100 000 Km on the IP I am going to connect a Pressure gage to the fuel line. There is fuel but it does not seem like enough. How many PSI should I see at idle? It rattles like a Dodge when it starts now but quites right up. feels like I am pulling a load when driving with engine light on.
 
You ran B100 in the truck or are going to start this summer?

If you put a pressure guage on the filter assmebly drain hose line that goes to the T-valve by the thermostat housing and power the lift pump there should be at least 5psi at idle.
 
So I drove home from work with a 4 inch 0 to 15 psi gage connected to the fuel line. I had 5psi at idle and had a hard time getting it to drop below 3psi at wot.

Jim do I have to remove the upper intake to get to the filer harness?
Thanks
 
You ran B100 in the truck or are going to start this summer?

If you put a pressure guage on the filter assmebly drain hose line that goes to the T-valve by the thermostat housing and power the lift pump there should be at least 5psi at idle.

I have never ran 100 maybe 80 bio but not in over 8 months. I have changed all filters twice since then.

My work stared paying for my fuel last summer.
 
Hey pgguru - do you still have a filter harness on top of your IP? If so, remove it, plug the ends back in without the harness, clear codes, and see what happens when you start it again.

Jim

Also, dont forget to do this, those filters can go bad and false trip 18 and 35. Or maybe you need a filter if there isnt one :) They can get false trip from alternator interference. Do you get alternator wine on speakers in the truck or have any alternator maintenance in the past?
 
Winter Diesel (pretty much kerosene clear like a glass of water) yes ULS. I added some additive but I only have 50km on it. I am thinking of running a filter bowl of chiller oil through it. Its pure Mineral oil cost a fortune but I had 2 600Tonne centrifugal chillers that I take care of so I have lost. 10l of it to 150l diesel and i get 200km farther on the tank.
 
Hey pc... you should be able to remove the EM filter without pulling the intake. It isn't likely it will make your alternator whine on the radio... not that kind of filter, and it's the wrong circuit for that... you would get that from a poor charging line choke or a bad radio ground.

This filter was designed to prevent induction from messing with PCM timing signals to the PDM, but later discovered it wasn't needed and was a source of misery in most cases. Most of us just pull 'em out, reconnect the wires, and carry on. If you do need it, you'll know (stuttering at higher rpm). They do cause code 18, though.

Fiel pressure seems OK, but I forgot you like Bio - don't suppose you've had much crap in your lines or filters? Have you pulled the little dinky IP inlet filter screen to make sure it's clean?

As far as feeling like it's pulling a load, yeah, your truck is funning in failsafe (limp) mode ... you can still run, but timing reverts to baseline and PCM cuts fuel back to protect truck. Bet your cruise control don't work, either.

Make sure you clear the codes... that should get you back to normal. You know the procedure for doing that without a scanner, or do you have a scanner?
 
as i remember you hold the brake and go peddle to the floor at the same time to clear the codes. i did that after the new pmd but through new codes right away.
any one have a picture of the harness i need to take off?
thanks again.
 
Not air causing, what would cause these codes is alternator interference or bad filter on the harness to the optic sensor, which Jifaire suggested you try removing the filter, and if there is none you might need to get one.

Also, DTC 35 is a short injection pulse width, less than 1.2ms, and the PCM will automatically set it to 1.95ms as a result of a constant SES condition. Engine coolant temp also has to be above 68F, so after warming a little. It can be caused by a faulty fuel solenoid, faulty PCM/E-PROM (not likely), or a broken circuit to the PMD, the red wire that ends up as pin E on the PMD, comes out of PCM pin PC2, which is the 24 pin pink connector pin C2. You can try testing continuity from that pin PC2 to the PMD harness that goes to pin E of the PMD.

Do you actually get stalling? You put yes, which maybe your fuel solenoid is faulty.

You could do more diagnostics if you got a USB to OBD1 cable and got the free software or the pay one from Engh Motors on a laptop. Then you could read the injection pulse timing to see if it actually out of spec. Otherwise its just something interfering.

DTC18, cam reference pulse error, which is to control timing and start of injection.

For the 18, could be interference too, but to check it out, pull optic sensor harness off, turn the IGN to ON, and make sure there is 5V on terminal A (grey wire) of the harness. If youre missing that 5V then check that the PCM is outputting 5V on grey wire PD10, which is the Pink 24 pin harness pin D10, and if so then you have a break somewhere between there and the optic sensor.

If you have the 5V then make sure the ground to the PCM is good which is the white wire to pin D of the sensor harness. So there should be 5V across pin A and D of the harness, or check using a test light to positve battery.
 
as i remember you hold the brake and go peddle to the floor at the same time to clear the codes. i did that after the new pmd but through new codes right away.

Yep... put jumper wire in pins A & B of the ALDL connector, push brake and go pedal to floor, hold, turn key on, hold for 15 sec, release for 5 sec, down again and hold for 15 sec, turn key off.

That should clear them. To check, leave jumper in, turn on key and count flashes of SES light.

If you get 1-2, the codes are cleared.

Turn key off, Pull jumper out, start truck.

***never insert or remove jumper with key on!

pgguru said:
any one have a picture of the harness i need to take off?
thanks again.

106394_3.jpg
 
Okay so I took off the filter harness... Changed the Fuel Filter and Cleared my codes.
Now I have Codes
17
18
35
54
62
And No Power now.. I only drove it in the city but I don't think it would do highway speed now.
What the hell its worse now......
At what point do I assume that pump is NFG?
I am going to guess that the original problem had nothing to do with the PMD since I had all the same Codes and symptoms after changing it.
 
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