-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
New guy here
- Thread starter KenA
- Start date
jrsavoie
Recruit
It definitely qualifies.
Welcome to the club
jrsavoie
Recruit
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Nice ride! Welcome
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Very nice! Welcome!
Interesting followup, this "Burban" was purchased new for $43K driven until June 2014. At this time, had 139K miles, or so. Was parked with a full tank (42 gals.) and sat until August of 2022. At lot of life happened. One day, in August of '22, I woke up and decided to get the old girl running again. Bought two new batteries, held my breath, turned the key when the light went out, she fired , rattled and grumbled a bit, then, settled int a normal idle. I thought WOW! Ok, I put my foot on the brake pedal shifted into gear and realized "NO BRAKES" Yikes!
Well, after replacing the MC, and all of the brake lines from the ABS backwards, both wheel cylinders, both caliper units, ( & Pads), bleeding the system a couple times, she rolled out of the driveway and off we went for the next 5-6K miles, then the trans started not shifting. After diddling with the 4L80e on my own and not getting any improvement, I had the tranny rebuilt.
To my amazement, the body has no rust, except what's on the frame and this is mostly surface stuff. The interior is in very good condition , all of the gauges work, except for the AC. I have since relocated the PMD to the inner bumper area, replaced the lift pump, replaced both oil lines with lined braided SS units, the oil cooler, added a transmission cooler, replaced the RAD with an aluminum, the damper, belt pulley, replaced the block heater (600W), and a couple of sensors. Removed the Intake coverer for better cooling. Oh, replaced tires with HD units. As of this entry, has approximately 146K miles. What's still amazing to me is that tank of diesel ran through the engine with nary a whimper after sitting idle for "8 years"?
Now, you know the history.
Well, after replacing the MC, and all of the brake lines from the ABS backwards, both wheel cylinders, both caliper units, ( & Pads), bleeding the system a couple times, she rolled out of the driveway and off we went for the next 5-6K miles, then the trans started not shifting. After diddling with the 4L80e on my own and not getting any improvement, I had the tranny rebuilt.
To my amazement, the body has no rust, except what's on the frame and this is mostly surface stuff. The interior is in very good condition , all of the gauges work, except for the AC. I have since relocated the PMD to the inner bumper area, replaced the lift pump, replaced both oil lines with lined braided SS units, the oil cooler, added a transmission cooler, replaced the RAD with an aluminum, the damper, belt pulley, replaced the block heater (600W), and a couple of sensors. Removed the Intake coverer for better cooling. Oh, replaced tires with HD units. As of this entry, has approximately 146K miles. What's still amazing to me is that tank of diesel ran through the engine with nary a whimper after sitting idle for "8 years"?
Now, you know the history.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Cool!
I would (overly cautious individual) replace the fuel filter. Examine the old filter and housing for any signs of deposits or fuel bugs.
The rubber in the brake system failed by time and lack of use as likely the trans issues.
Soon will be your “rubber” fuel lines. The ethanol in all our diesel fuel nowdays eats this older type of line that wasn’t designed for it.
SAE30R9 for the replacement line is recommended for the alcohol in the fuel and the abrasion resistance. 3/8 from tank to ffm. 5/16 from ffm to ip unless you already increased it to 3/8, known here as FTB -Feed The Beast mod. Added fuel flow helps the ip life and power.
While spending your money- I always recommend replacing the 5-6” line out the front top of the ip in an upside down “U” shape with clear line to observe for aeration, contamination, fuel flow in the future. Usually added when problems begin but best is ahead of time so you see how it is supposed to look.
Hardware stores sell it by the foot but best is from fuel-line.com as it is rated as fuel line to withstand the harsher fuels, and is still under a Jackson after shipping.
More money yet is permanently mounted fuel pressure gauge to see while driving. Tapped with a metal “T” at the ip inlet beyond the rubber lines. Sensor there and electric gauge makes an easy add on but will spend a few bucks for descent one.
8-14psi is desired.
Under 8 shortens power, mpg, ip life. Under 1 psi DRAMATICALLY shortens life of the ip.
Since you last drove it years ago- stanandyne stopped making the ds4. There are rebuilt units with worse results now than used to be on average. There are aftermarket companies making them and no high mileage ones I have heard of yet. So taking care of the one working could be of interest - especially if you spend the money to buy a new aftermarket one because they are definitely way pricey imo.
The gauge will lead to more money spent as that is when most discover the factory style pumps do not last long at all in this new fuel from corn juice.
They barely hit minimum pressure with it being a thinner fuel than before already.
the poorer lube ability meant the addition of stanandyne lube added (some use 2 stroke, atf, gear oil, motor oil, etc as they see fit). But having the lube is half the equation, proper pressure and absence of water which the alcohol adds to the problem-is the other half.
So better water seperation is critical. But yours say for years and that fuel still ran it ok. So unless you pull out a horrible looking fuel filter- you might be like me- in an area of little water contamination and high quality fuel suppliers.
After seeing so many people absolutely eat the fuel system- I became paranoid and now recommend the million dollar FASS lift pump and fuel filer system to ensure no early death to the ip - obviously finding individual parts to work as well and save $ is an option- flavor as needed there.
But seriously- check the filter asap.
I would (overly cautious individual) replace the fuel filter. Examine the old filter and housing for any signs of deposits or fuel bugs.
The rubber in the brake system failed by time and lack of use as likely the trans issues.
Soon will be your “rubber” fuel lines. The ethanol in all our diesel fuel nowdays eats this older type of line that wasn’t designed for it.
SAE30R9 for the replacement line is recommended for the alcohol in the fuel and the abrasion resistance. 3/8 from tank to ffm. 5/16 from ffm to ip unless you already increased it to 3/8, known here as FTB -Feed The Beast mod. Added fuel flow helps the ip life and power.
While spending your money- I always recommend replacing the 5-6” line out the front top of the ip in an upside down “U” shape with clear line to observe for aeration, contamination, fuel flow in the future. Usually added when problems begin but best is ahead of time so you see how it is supposed to look.
Hardware stores sell it by the foot but best is from fuel-line.com as it is rated as fuel line to withstand the harsher fuels, and is still under a Jackson after shipping.
More money yet is permanently mounted fuel pressure gauge to see while driving. Tapped with a metal “T” at the ip inlet beyond the rubber lines. Sensor there and electric gauge makes an easy add on but will spend a few bucks for descent one.
8-14psi is desired.
Under 8 shortens power, mpg, ip life. Under 1 psi DRAMATICALLY shortens life of the ip.
Since you last drove it years ago- stanandyne stopped making the ds4. There are rebuilt units with worse results now than used to be on average. There are aftermarket companies making them and no high mileage ones I have heard of yet. So taking care of the one working could be of interest - especially if you spend the money to buy a new aftermarket one because they are definitely way pricey imo.
The gauge will lead to more money spent as that is when most discover the factory style pumps do not last long at all in this new fuel from corn juice.
They barely hit minimum pressure with it being a thinner fuel than before already.
the poorer lube ability meant the addition of stanandyne lube added (some use 2 stroke, atf, gear oil, motor oil, etc as they see fit). But having the lube is half the equation, proper pressure and absence of water which the alcohol adds to the problem-is the other half.
So better water seperation is critical. But yours say for years and that fuel still ran it ok. So unless you pull out a horrible looking fuel filter- you might be like me- in an area of little water contamination and high quality fuel suppliers.
After seeing so many people absolutely eat the fuel system- I became paranoid and now recommend the million dollar FASS lift pump and fuel filer system to ensure no early death to the ip - obviously finding individual parts to work as well and save $ is an option- flavor as needed there.
But seriously- check the filter asap.
Oh, the fuel filter has and was changed a few times, since back in service. Also, the front shocks with Bilsteins. Plan on the rears, in the spring. Yes, the fuel lines are "ticking", as is, the fuel pickup.
Thanks for reiterating these important service bits.
Last edited: