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New found fuel economy

R

Rodd

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Location
Antelope, CA
Man I have bee so busy w/ work, school, and kids sports that I haven't had but 2 posts in the past 6 months. Any way lets get down to business.

I have had a 10 micron racor filter sitting in my garage for 10 months waiting to be installed. Now it is done and my first tank after the modification netted me 18.6 MPG on 350 miles. 100 of that was freeway @ 75 mph and the rest was in town. This is with 410's in the rear. WOW. In the 3 1/2 years I have owned this truck the best I have ever seen was 14. This is also on a bad injector since I just cleared an unbalanced code on #3 and that is one of the reasons I did the mod because it started to buck a little. I also notice when I get on it going up a hill it lacks enough fuel. I found when I did the FTB mod 8 months or so ago the last ditch screen in the filter mgr was gone. I think some crud got through to the injectors and caused some damage there so those are next. With the pre filter I removed the tank sock. We'll see how the next few tanks go.
 
Regular fuel manager or remote fuel filter?

Got a PN for us to use? :)

That is in incredible gain! Very nice!
 
The fuel mgr is still there I replaced the filter there and added in the racor back by the rear Axel. I'll get the filter part #.
 
Okay, my 2 tanks since the great fuel economy have been dismal. They have been about 90% in town and 10% freeway. My last 2 tanks the truck has averaged about 10.5. I think it is injector time. I have a set of rebuilt marines that are waiting to go in. What really gets me is the first tank after the new prefilter was so good. I was thinking I screwed up or something on my calculations but I track every single tank and I can't see where I made a mistake. I must have to have such a big disparity between fill ups.
 
dangerousdave said:
Any easy tips to drop the tank and remove the sock?
Click to expand...
You can either do it w/ the tank almost empty or empty the tank via the t valve and jump the pump till it's empty. Then you take out the 2 bolts holding the tank in place w/ a floor jack supporting the tank. You will also need to unclamp the hoses connecting to the fuel fill and the overflow before lowering the tank. Don't lower the tank all the way. You need to reach up top and unscrew the fuel line and return line then you can take the tank all the way out. Next you need to use a flat head screw driver and hammer and tap the pressure ring off hitting the 3 tabs. Now the fuel sending unit will come out and then pull off the sock and you're done. Oh I almost forgot before starting disconnect the fsu wiring on top of the rear axle.
 
I thought the same thing but I could hear the fuel coming up the neck and in addition I saw the fuel looking down the neck. You may be correct though I may have looked when the foam was still up there and mistook it for fuel vs foam.
 
Rodd said:
You can either do it w/ the tank almost empty or empty the tank via the t valve and jump the pump till it's empty. Then you take out the 2 bolts holding the tank in place w/ a floor jack supporting the tank. You will also need to unclamp the hoses connecting to the fuel fill and the overflow before lowering the tank. Don't lower the tank all the way. You need to reach up top and unscrew the fuel line and return line then you can take the tank all the way out. Next you need to use a flat head screw driver and hammer and tap the pressure ring off hitting the 3 tabs. Now the fuel sending unit will come out and then pull off the sock and you're done. Oh I almost forgot before starting disconnect the fsu wiring on top of the rear axle.
Click to expand...

Alternatively, get 4 or 6 friends over, pull the bed bolts, unbolt the filler neck, disconnect the tail light wiring and lift the bed off.

*note*

Doesn't work so well in the "rust belt".....
 
great white said:
Alternatively, get 4 or 6 friends over, pull the bed bolts, unbolt the filler neck, disconnect the tail light wiring and lift the bed off.

*note*

Doesn't work so well in the "rust belt".....
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be able to drive it then since the bed is connected to the cab. :D
 
Okay I think I may have found the problem with my fuel economy. Tell me if this makes sense. I was talking to a guy at my local standyne rebuild shop about my fuel consumption problem and he thinks my new racor may be starving the truck since I took out the 70 micron sock and have a 10 micron pre filter and the stock 10 micron filter. He said the pre filter may be plugging up with larger particles. He also said the tank is prone to flaking and that is why the sock is on there. What are your thoughts?
 
Me thinks any filter installed pre LP is gonna cause trouble for the already low capasity LP's we have.
A fuel pressure gauge pre and post install would have told you the diff.
 
bison said:
Me thinks any filter installed pre LP is gonna cause trouble for the already low capasity LP's we have.
A fuel pressure gauge pre and post install would have told you the diff.
Click to expand...

:iagree: Having a fuel pressure gauge in the line between the FM an the IP tells you a lot !!
 
This is why I up-sized to a 60gph Racor pre-filter as it had larger body to get plugged up, and lower flow restriction overall than a 45gph filter did, just for test I ran all way home NY to Ms with my Heath h/o lift pump only on some WOTs to 100+ mph did I ever drop to zero pressure, flipped on my Walbro in parallel and maintained 5+ all times, my Walbro was "used but good" when I bought it, it still maintains 6 psi on highway but only time I see 10 psi now is @ idle so I'll be doing a rebuild for it in the not too distant future.
 
I have a fuel pressure gauge between the ffm and the IP unfortunately I need to trace a wiring problem because it is max out at all times once power is added to it.
 
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