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New Cadmium coated Rotor issues???? Quick Input Needed

nobby

nobby

Old Timey Diesel Guy
Messages
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117
Location
Long Island NY
Just fitted Powerslot cadmium coated rotors and Hawk LTS pads with new calipers. Brakes are weak and before I go crazy re-bleeding has anyone else done this, how did they feel initially? My guess is that until the cadmium wears off they'll be pretty poor in feel?

Cheers
Nobby
 
Last edited:
How are the rear brakes adjusted?

Do you have the bleeders facing up and out?

They should bite hard right away, I love Hawk products.

Is the pedal mushy/soft/spongy or do they simply lack feel?

How did you bleed them?
 
Rear brakes are adjusted good that was done recently.

Only replaced the front calipers so I only bled the fronts using 2 man manual method. Bled a fair amount to clean the fluid out. Pedal felt good after bleeding engine not running.

According to Powerslot guide you have to drive easy for 15 miles or so to wear the coating off before the several hard stop burnish method recommended by hawk. I want to avoid the hassle of rebleeding if I am in fact feeling the brakes simply setting in.

Cheers
Nobby
 
IF you 2 man bled them until no more air came out, they should be bled. Did you clamp the lines when you swapped calipers? If so, your golden as far as bleeding goes. IF not, you still should be good, but it is easy to bleed them again with 2 men.

I run ceramic pads on stocker rotors (originals) and it stops fine.
 
Yep lines clamped, my feeling is they are bled OK and just need to set in. I'll drive it for a while and see how it goes. Asked in the hope for a post from someone else who has this combo and experienced like findings.

Cheers
Nobby
 
FWIW I always heard Ceramic do better when they are under load, which is why I use them as I'm always 9-10k. Also no rusting brake dust, and they hold their beef.
 
Believe you are having issues with the ABS. You need a scanner to be able to reset it when you bleed in order to get all of the air out. I'm sure someone will chime in with how to do it.
 
I was under the impression that using a scanner for bleeding was only required when working on the valve bodies etc further up.

Cheers
Nobby
 
This is how I bleed and it works awesome, but you need 2 people. Gravity bleed or vacuum bleed if possible, if not, just have buddy step on the brakes and crack the bleeder, then close, repeat until no air or a few times. Put a hose on the bleeder and into a small container, IE water bottle with some brake fluid covering the end, open bleeder have a helper pump until the fluid is clear or free of bubbles, close on the down stroke. Do one more hold at floor and crack bleeder, switch to the next side-REMEMBER to check the level in the MC.
 
I have some powerslot rotors, but I haven't put them on. I noticed they are only about half the thickness of my stockers. I'm leaning toward cutting my stock rotors rather than replacing them with the thin powerslots.
 
Detroit Dan said:
I have some powerslot rotors, but I haven't put them on. I noticed they are only about half the thickness of my stockers. I'm leaning toward cutting my stock rotors rather than replacing them with the thin powerslots.
Click to expand...

Are sure you have the right ones? With new pads caliper open all the way mine were a snug fit. I see in my manual that the duallys JB8 system have a 1.50" thick rotor whereas JD7 on down is 1.26" and then 1.25". Still that wouldn't give you half the thickness difference tho.

Just did a quick finder and you should have 126.66026SL & 126.66026SR
Old number 8626PSL/PSR

Cheers
Nobby
 
Last time I did mine & also when I upgraded to SSBC twin piston calipers, I had to pull with mity vac 1st, then finished off with 2 man bleeding, no ABS issues changing front calipers, master cyl, and adding EGR disc conversion on rear.

Had a line blow on the rear once, thought I'd never get it bled, that also required the mity vac & 2 man final bleed.
 
nobby said:
Just fitted Powerslot cadmium coated rotors and Hawk LTS pads with new calipers. Brakes are weak and before I go crazy re-bleeding has anyone else done this, how did they feel initially? My guess is that until the cadmium wears off they'll be pretty poor in feel?

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

Like crap, but problem was air in system not rotor or pad related
 
Tim did you deal with air straight away, I.e. you drove for 1/2 a mile said thats crap got more air out and then Viola felt good after that?

I re-bled the fronts again last night for s*** and grins and no air at all came out. I drove around last night for a wee while light braking as instructed and it seems like it is slowly getting better, I am almost at 15 miles so pretty soon will burnish them in then we'll see I guess.

Cheers
Nobby
 
Probably need to drive more than that. There are a few bedding in process how-to on the net. Mostly are doing high speed about 50 to 60 mph and breaking it to 10 mph firmly without enganging the ABS the speed up again to 50 or 60 for 8x continously. So you need to be on freeway early in the morning. Well, I don't know about NY because they are always busy. This is done after the brakes and rotors are hot or up to temp. Then you have to take it easy, cool it down for a couple of hours before driving again.
 
This is a good description.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Hawk guide for mine is several almost stops from 30-35 and then some at 40-45. The key thing is to not come to a stop when doing or soon after doing this. If I understand correctly the description above I.e 60mph is for a high performance pad.

Spoke with tech at Powerslot this morning and they confirmed that I can expect a poor pedal to begin with.

Cheers
Nobby
 
nobby said:
Tim did you deal with air straight away, I.e. you drove for 1/2 a mile said thats crap got more air out and then Viola felt good after that?

I re-bled the fronts again last night for s*** and grins and no air at all came out. I drove around last night for a wee while light braking as instructed and it seems like it is slowly getting better, I am almost at 15 miles so pretty soon will burnish them in then we'll see I guess.

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

Mine were bad straight away, spongy pedal, re-bled right away, then after I got pedal "feel" I wanted then I burnished per instructions with the pads which was similar to process in your link EGR brake site & SSBC have brake burnish procedure in them
 
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