NEED HELP!!

[treegump]

I broke my single thermostat housing/water outlet and I can't find the part!?! The local chevy dealership said it was a discontinued item, and it sounds like bumper to bumper doesn't have it either!

I thought for about 2 seconds last night about jb welding it - but I don't really want to do that.

Where do I find this? (its a single thermostat housing where the bolts go in horizontally)

The dealership said that I would have to switch to a dual thermostat system...but that sounds mighty expensive to do!

 

[JiFaire]

OEM: 15963984
►AC Delco: 15-30569

GM Part# 15963984 or AC Delco Part# 15-30569 (old)
GM (new): part #12597484
NAPA - P/N: 730-4943

 

[treegump]

OEM: 15963984
►AC Delco: 15-30569

GM Part# 15963984 or AC Delco Part# 15-30569 (old)
GM (new): part #12597484
NAPA - P/N: 730-4943

That part number came back as a quick disconnect. Are we talking about the same part here? Did I miss something?:sad::sad::mad2:

 

[treegump]

i went ahead and ordered one off of ebay - but that has a delivery of 5-10 business days. If I can find another one somewhere that could get here quicker....or if jb weld would help??? even for a 30 mile trip to get it home, I'd be willing to do that w/o the thermostat in this cold weather to at least get it home and in a garage.

 

[NVW]

Try the jb weld, just keep an eye for leaks

 

[ak diesel driver]

x2 and leave the cap off so the system doesn't build pressure

 

[treegump]

ok...so...since i won't have the thermostat in it, the engine won't be building up heat. If I do start losing fluid, how will I know, cause doesn't the sensor get its temperature from coolant temp?

 

[ak diesel driver]

your low coolant light should come on first.

 

[treegump]

your low coolant light should come on first.

wow...:mad2::mad2::mad2: thanks. I'm checking around to see if a welding shop can weld it together. Todd from Heath Diesel sent me a contact at a diesel yard - and waiting for that call. Todd called someone in the mean time and got a hold of someone wanting 250 bucks for it - the extra 100 was because its a discontinued part - both Todd and I agreed that was so very kind of him.

 

[nobby]

Temporarily JB weld should do it, also you could try the following from Devcon (available at Grainger), I use both and have repaired unobtainable badly corroded aluminium cast coolant parts with the Al putty with good results.
Also the underwater epoxy is tenacious stuff and I have patched many a cracked/broken item in marine service with this stuff. All you are trying to do is stem the flow for a short time to get home so even if you get a little weepage you'll be fine.

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=1&familyid=107
http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=1&familyid=114

got a west marine near you, then if you cannot source above 'marinetex' or one of the old hull repair favourites splash zone should do it. There are many operating steel barges etc operating with 'splash zone A-788' doing its job!!):h

Cheers
Nobby

 

[treegump]

Temporarily JB weld should do it, also you could try the following from Devcon (available at Grainger), I use both and have repaired unobtainable badly corroded aluminium cast coolant parts with the Al putty with good results.
Also the underwater epoxy is tenacious stuff and I have patched many a cracked/broken item in marine service with this stuff. All you are trying to do is stem the flow for a short time to get home so even if you get a little weepage you'll be fine.

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=1&familyid=107
http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=1&familyid=114

got a west marine near you, then if you cannot source above 'marinetex' or one of the old hull repair favourites splash zone should do it. There are many operating steel barges etc operating with 'splash zone A-788' doing its job!!):h

Cheers
Nobby

thanks! I actually found a place about 40 minutes south of here that welds cast aluminum, so I'm going to take it down there. Hope this works!

 

[JiFaire]

That part number came back as a quick disconnect. Are we talking about the same part here? Did I miss something?:sad::sad::mad2:

Sorry, Forrest... nope, we weren't talking about the same parts. The quick-disconnect is a common crapped-out part, and I just assumed...

Ooops. My bad. How did you break your housing, anyway? Never saw that before!

Jim

 

[vail426]

They usually break if one side is tightened and then the other side, rather than drawing it down a little on each side until tight. After 20 years of auto shop instruction, I saw several issues like that. Darn kids.:mad2:

 

[Pruittx2]

I saw several issues like that. Darn kids.:mad2:

Well, If it weren't for mistakes,, we would all be stupid! Some lessons are more $$$ than others, but we live and learn. Now if someone else can learn from his mistake,, then all the better.

Vail,, don't make me call your folks and ask them about some of Your's :thumbsup: LOL

There ain't enough thread space :nonod: for me to list mine!

 

[Turbine Doc]

Dang Forest when I told you the other nite to check the stat, you weren't supposed to whack it with a hammer , I'd go JB weld myself as well, was the stat bad ?

 

[Mudbath]

They usually break if one side is tightened and then the other side, rather than drawing it down a little on each side until tight. After 20 years of auto shop instruction, I saw several issues like that. Darn kids.:mad2:

Or if the thermostat moved before you tightened it down (pinched under one side of housing) Use something to tack it in place and watch carefully that it doesn't get bumped when tightening housing down.

 

[jrsavoie]

Would the housing off my 89 2500 work? You're probably all done by now. I gave away most of my parts I should have had 3 of those housings off of 6.5 TD's. At the time I didn't have time to mess with moving parts around. The guy that ended up with the parts is close by. About 45 minutes south of Frankfort. About straight west of Morocco. There's another guy on this board that is very close to Frankfort also. btfarm

 

[Matt Bachand]

I personally think the backwards approach of 'righty tighty lefty loosy'.... Be honest, you went the wrong way while trying to remove it?

 

[treegump]

Sorry it took me so long to get back to ya'll. I posted my problem on facebook and some guys (one being from here) suggested I find a welder since it is cast aluminum. I had already bought what appeared to be the part off ebay - but I didn't want to wait 5-10 business days for it to show up. I paid 35 bucks to get it welded, and bought RTV & a "cardboard" gasket and put it back together Friday night and its been holding since.

I broke it because I'm an idiot - plain and simple. I saw on the thermostat "radiator - this side" (or something like that) and thought that the way the letters (or maybe arrow) was pointed was where the radiator was. Turned out I tightened it up 2-3 times with it being the wrong way and then the 4th time is when it broke (and that was with it the right way). All this in 5*F weather w/ strong winds, low light, behind my office. Fun times .

The truck isn't going over 210 anymore, but it is getting up to 210. I went ahead and removed the A/C radiator and some lines, and I sprayed Simple Green on the radiator and splashed water on it. I know that I have enough antifreeze, but I'm wondering if I have too much...cause its still not staying cold enough. I don't want to flush it till I can get a hose to the garage and I have a replacement for the quick disconnect - seeing as how that may break when I remove it. (I also ordered (2) 190* thermostats from kennedy, but I don't think it'd be worth the mess and trouble of replacing the AC Delco (GM replacement ) with the 190, would it?)

Again - THANK YOU for all your help. Sorry for freakin' out so much...just didn't expect to break a part that was seemingly unreplaceable.

 

[jrsavoie]

The AC should also be a 190.