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Need advice on Rear bearings 1994 K3500

J

jrsavoie

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Rural Clifton, Illinois
To change a rear bearing, is it necessary to also change the race? The race looks good

Are there any special tools needed to remove the race?

I am having trouble removing the snap ring. Is there a special snap ring pliers or tool for that?
 
Tapered roller bearings 'wear in' together. You increase the failure chances greatly if you do not replace the race and roller at the same time.

It begs the question how a race is ok and the roller needs replacing...(?)

The heavy internal snap ring can be compressed with the very tip of a pair of needle nose pliers. I ground a groove in the jaws of one pair I have. Worked.
 
The race looked good. The bearing looked good but was loose. I cheaped out and just changed the bearing.

I rolled the dice on this one. Something I've never done before. We''ll see later if I crap out or not. I have parking brake issues to deal with now.

Can you change the front parking brake cable without removing the inner fender?
 
jrsavoie said:
Can you change the front parking brake cable without removing the inner fender?
Click to expand...

That one I don't know for sure.

If it's anything like the previous generation of GM truck, yes.. They had a helluva clip that poked through a hole then 'starred' out locking it into place.. For these I had used a small worm drive hose clamp to compress the 'fingers' just enough to back the cable out. Loosen the clamp once (hopefully) the fingers were out part way.

Same lock clips are found on the backing plates of the drum brakes.
 
Can you change the front parking brake cable without removing the inner fender?
Click to expand...

Changing oil and doing a chassis lube today, I got a few pics of my '93 cable while under the truck.

Just a big grommet thru the floor, those above mentioned clips holding things in the Ebrake bracket and the cab mount frame bracket. Looks pretty straight forward.

Oct06_0003.jpgOct06_0005.jpgOct06_0002.jpg
 
Thanks

Made it out to GM Guy's and back safe and as sound as can be expected.

Had a message on the phone that my parking brake cables were aT THE dealers waiting for me.

Had some minor starter problems. The first 2 times I shut the truck off the Bendix whirred the first start attempt. Started normally the 2nd attempt. After which I avoided shutting the truck off.

After those 2 no starts, it has started normally 6 times in a row. I have had starters do that before and last a year or 2 depending on how many times it is started. I will run it as is unless I have to take a trip or go someplace where I would be uncomfortable having an issue. Might just carry one of my spares in the truck with me. If it acts up again I'll do the swap.

Having no parking brake, a manual trasmission and being scared to shut the truck off presented some interesting situations of having to hold the brake while refueling etc. - actually I had good parking brakes - but if I had set them I would have had to pull the drum to release the right hand side. After all the trials & tribulations, I found that the front cable has a section about 1/4" that sticks for !/4" of movement 1" from being completely released. That is what started all this. - It was a good thing because I found the oil soaked shoes, bad seals, loose bearing & changed the oil in the rear differential. It actually didn't look bad. The inside had a minimal amount of muck in the bottom, but no shiny stuff or bits.
Found the right side rear cable to be bad when we put the drum back on and it would not turn freely even with the adjuster backed all the way off. It just tensed me up a little extra because of the time constraint I was under to make the trip
 
glad to hear you made it!

Jeff has a pretty snazzy CCLB folks, if it was 2wd we would have been dickering. :) I do regret not asking you about the FS2500 and its mounting, I totally spaced on that.
 
glad to hear you made it!

Jeff has a pretty snazzy CCLB folks, if it was 2wd we would have been dickering. :) I do regret not asking you about the FS2500 and its mounting, I totally spaced on that.
 
Apparently we misunderstood the back road directions to Colby. We ended up running down several miles of muddy cruddy roads to get there.
IT was quite the adventure. I'm pretty sure if I had moved over a mile or 2 one way or the other I would have been on the correct road. We actually never got off the muddy roads til we pulled into town. The pizza was good and so was breakfast at the hotel

GM Guy said:
glad to hear you made it!

Jeff has a pretty snazzy CCLB folks, if it was 2wd we would have been dickering. :) I do regret not asking you about the FS2500 and its mounting, I totally spaced on that.
Click to expand...
 
Thomas county KS, a horrible place to end up on county roads. worst maintenance program in the state IMO.

was it the last few miles before town? if so, did it come out at a stoplight, then you turned north and went up Range to get to the pizza joint? If so, scary thing is, that was one of the best roads! :O
 
I install a t in the engine oil cooler supply line, just in back of the radiator, to feed the bypass filters. I return to the oil fill neck

some FS2500 pics.

I will start a new bypass filter install thread alsoFS2500 & manifold pressure gauge 003.jpgFS2500 & manifold pressure gauge 007.jpgFS2500 & manifold pressure gauge 009.jpgFS2500 & manifold pressure gauge 002.jpgFS2500 & manifold pressure gauge 001.jpg
 
I am still mulling over bracketry, in the future I am also thinking about a coolant filter to filter junk for long WP life, and letting out a bit of SCA's, even though the 6.5L probably doesnt need it.

I am thinking of possibly locating them on the same bracket. most likely left side somewhere, but not for sure, depends on how I mount the coolant filter.

Thanks for the pics!
 
3500GMC said:
That one I don't know for sure.

If it's anything like the previous generation of GM truck, yes.. They had a helluva clip that poked through a hole then 'starred' out locking it into place.. For these I had used a small worm drive hose clamp to compress the 'fingers' just enough to back the cable out. Loosen the clamp once (hopefully) the fingers were out part way.

Same lock clips are found on the backing plates of the drum brakes.
Click to expand...

I looked up the tool online and then made one out of a piece of tubing

The starter I mentioned earlier in the thread is still on the truck and still doing the same thing. Half the time you hit it, it will not engage. But it always engages 2nd try. I still have a spare if it goes.
 
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Yep It is not grinding or making any obnoxious noises. Do you think that is a concern. It is just spinning when it does it. I do not believe the gear is being thrown forward to even have a chance of engaging
 
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