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Need a class III Hitch but confused

A

Acesneights1

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All the ones I have seen are 500lb tongue 5000lb tow unless using a weight dist. Then it's 1000 tongue and 10,000 tow . But i have towed my skidteer trailer many times and ti weighs more than 5000 lbs and doesn't use a weight dist. Do they make heavier class IIIs ? Also where is the best place to buy one ? Uhaul sells them and so does Advance Auto. Same price.
 
I talked to Uhaul They don't make a class 4 or 5 for the burb. They said the hitch would b heavier than the frame can withstand. I've always towed the machine with a class 3 for years. I guess it will have to do.
 
just keep in mind that because it's rated at 5,000 lbs doesn't mean it will fail at 5001 lbs the first time you overload it. That number basically says the manufacturer guarantees the hitch won't fail for it's expected lifetime at that rating. When you overload it you are stressing and fatiguing the metal. You can continue to overload it "without any problems" but one day it's going to break. Your biggest enemy will be driving down the highway and going over those "rolling bumps" that make the truck/trailer do a lot of vertical articulation at the hitch. You are significantly increasing the weight that the hitch is seeing as the trailer tongue pushes down, which of course is why you can tow more with a weight distributor.

please be careful
 
I would've thought the hitches for the trucks would've fit the burbs too. Even if the frame is lighter it would still be stronger than a class 3 they are substantially longer.
 
There's not a damn thing about a Class III that gives me any confidence.
I'd be looking around for a IV or V before I'd tow much of anything bigger than a rowboat or lawn tractor with a CL III.
 
Burb frame is different in the back. Not straight. I found a Class 3/4 hitch that was a little better from Curt. It's rated at 600 lbs tongue and 6000 lbs tow and 1000/10000 weight dist. 170$ from Advancd Auto.
 
btfarm said:
I'd still try to get a Class IV. Skidsteer and trailer gotta be near 8k Kenny.
Click to expand...

Well, I thought about it and I'd probably be better putting a Class 4 on the CUCV. I doubt I'll tow the Skidsteer anywhere far with the Burb, The Burb is mainly for the Camper. The One I bought is more than adequate for the Camper with weight dist. A I found out it doesn't really matter which brad you buy. They are ALL made by the same company. The skidsteer is an older New Holland 775. The trailer is a Doolittle.
 
btfarm said:
There's not a damn thing about a Class III that gives me any confidence.
I'd be looking around for a IV or V before I'd tow much of anything bigger than a rowboat or lawn tractor with a CL III.
Click to expand...

There you go...don't mess around with that stuff. Make it strong as it can be and don't look back.
 
well, It's getting a class junkyard. took the old hitch off to replace and the frame is shot. I hate life right now.:mad:
So I got another useless POS.
 

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Try not to loose to much faith there Kenny, remember they are very old trucks. Hell even my truck has a little rust and its half the age of your trucks.

Have you considered cutting off the rusted parts and "building out " from there? Or bolting up the new hitch and reinforcing it along the frame with additional braces?
 
I bought my truck without a hitch, if you can believe that. Couldn't find a good reasonably priced hitch at the time, and only had a 24 foot camper so I ended up grudgingly putting a class III on it. I've towed my 33 footer for years with no WD hitch, and I've yanked on more things than I should have with it. I check it every so often and it hasn't bent or distorted at all. My drawbar rusted up inside there and I can't get it out. I chained it to a tree and yanked a few times, if that didn't pull the hitch off, nothing will. It has to be built at a significant strength beyond what they will rate it for, just like chain.
I did replace the cheap looking grade 5s that came with it with some quality grade 8s.
 
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