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My 93 project truck-Alpine Green

bk95td

6.5 nut job/addict
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I bought the 93 k2500 in my sig a year ago or so. The po told me it had some kind of major engine problem. He was towing a small trailer when it started making bad sounds like a rod bearing or something like that. He had it towed home and started taking it apart and then walked away. The truck sat for 3 years before i bought it. He had drained the rad.took the crossover exhaust off and unbolted the torque converter.
I assumed the engine was junk. Truck has 210,000 miles on it. Bought it for $700. He had just[less than 500 miles] had the ip rebuilt and had paid that much for that. So now to find a engine. I found a 93 6.2 n/a out of a short bus with 95,000 miles on it at a small junkyard for $300.
So I finally get to working on it and deside to start it up to hear just how bad it really is. It sounded terrible but I couldn't tell where all the bad noise was coming from because of the exhaust being off.It did have a pretty bad miss also. So, time to yank the engine.
I get the engine out and this is the first thing I find is the center is broke out of the flexplate. That would explain the horrible knocking but not the miss. Time to dig in deeper. I want to have arp head studs and a new cloyes timing chain anyhow.When I get the timing cover off I find the bolts that hold the drive gear on the IP were all loose and hitting the timing cover.:nonod: Hadn't fallen out yet.Looks like it was doomed even if the flexplate hadn't broke. Heads came off next and all the cylinders look good except #7.:eek: Rust pits at the bottom of the bore. Unshure if head gasket leaked or just condensation. The other cylinders had absolutely no ridge. So now my choices are:give up on this engine and use the 6.2 or spend over $1000 on this one to have bored and new pistons or hone #7 cylinder and put new rings in just that hole.
I went for the hone #7 with new rings[fingers crossed].I can always go for either one of the other choices if it doesn't work. Only out the head gaskets rings and my time if it doesn't work out:mad2:
I put the arp head studs in and checked the decks and heads for flat.:thumbsup: No visable cracks. I took a couple of bearing caps off and bearings look very good.
Other goodies put in while apart are:all new valve seals, cloyes timing chain and sprockets,front and rear main oil seals, new bosch HO water pump, ac delco thermostat, new medallion injectors,pmdcable oil line/cooler kit, dual frost plug heaters and new home made heavy duty starter brace to clear frost plug heater on passenger side.
The most time consuming part is the cleaning and painting[waiting for engine bay to dry now]
Engine should go in tomorrow after I get the energy suspension motor mounts in.
Here's some pics:
 

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So was the rust pits below where the rings ride in the bore? If so I think it will last just fine. Amazing what a good cleaning and a little paint will do.
 
Other things forgot to mention:new harmonic balancer and new belt tensioner. There will be more when I go through the slips. I'm going to cobble some exhaust together untill I know it will run good. It has a gasser muffler with dual tailpipes:rolleyes5:.I also found out it has a goodwrench tranny in it:thumbsup:
a couple more pics:
 

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The engine color is Alpine Green/detroit diesel green Duplicolor paint
 
So was the rust pits below where the rings ride in the bore? If so I think it will last just fine. Amazing what a good cleaning and a little paint will do.
The #7 piston must have been at bottom dead center. The water must have been on top of the piston so yes the rust was bearly where the rings ride. I honed the daylights out of it but could not get all of the pit out. A guess of less than .010 of the pit left. Not exactly a dream build. It was very smooth after honing. Nothing for the rings to catch on. I figured there wouldn't be alot of cylinder pressure when the piston is in that area. As said I'll only be out the cost of gaskets $50 and the rings $25. I thought it was a pretty good risk to take. All of the new parts can be swapped to the 6.2 if I loose the bet.
 
I bet it will last quite awhile. Probably start using a little more oil on that hole though. Pretty amazing some of the engines I put back together as a kid and they ran pretty decent. Biggest ? is long term.
 
Nice work. How did you prep the engine for paint?
A couple of cans of foaming engine degreaser after useing a putty knife . Then a wire wheel on a air drill. Then a wash down with laquer thinner. The tin all went in the parts washer and then sanded. followed by a washdown with laquer thinner. 2 coats of primer then 2 coats of paint. All the small parts took at least twice as long as the block and tin.
 
more features and pics. All stainless exhaust bolts. Stainless glow plug heat sheilds. Drilled and tapped exhaust manifold for exhaust temp probe.
 

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That is a sweet-looking engine, bk!

I agree with the gamble you took on the rebuild... I've put engines together with worse than that, and like AK says, they all amazed me with how well they ran and lasted. The worst that will likely happen is you'll have a cylinder that uses a little oil.

You made out like a bandit on this one, for sure!
 
A couple of cans of foaming engine degreaser after useing a putty knife . Then a wire wheel on a air drill. Then a wash down with laquer thinner. The tin all went in the parts washer and then sanded. followed by a washdown with laquer thinner. 2 coats of primer then 2 coats of paint. All the small parts took at least twice as long as the block and tin.

Again, nice work.

I'm in the early phases of planning my suburban restoration project and was thinking of another engine color because black is so boring. After seeing this green has to be my new favorite.

Any special prep on the frame? Mine is trashed due to living in the rust belt. I'd like to blast it with sand and then paint with POR-15 or equivalent.
 
Again, nice work.

I'm in the early phases of planning my suburban restoration project and was thinking of another engine color because black is so boring. After seeing this green has to be my new favorite.

Any special prep on the frame? Mine is trashed due to living in the rust belt. I'd like to blast it with sand and then paint with POR-15 or equivalent.
I didn't go all out on the frame. I wire wheeled it as good as possible and gave it a lacquer thinner wash. Sprayed with permatex rust killer, then 2 coats of rustoluem. Easy and cheap to touch up.
I don't think you need to blast to use por 15. Won't hurt though. Spendy stuff. I got the duplicolor alpine green from summit racing.
 
Got a few more pics as I SLOWLY progress. Hoping to fire up next weekend or sooner. Found a decent downpipe in my parts pile to put on.It doesn't look like the drove over factory pipe. Need to get band clamp for that and rad. hoses from napa. The oil cooler set up is from pmdcable. I really didn't like having to cut a hole through the air deflector. I also had to fab a bracket to hold the hoses so they wouldn't pull directly on the cooler. I also had to rob the oil line bracket off a newer engine that bolts to the motor mount. The 92-93 oil lines ran up to the inner fender from behind the exhaust manifold.
 

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Looks really nice:thumbsup:
Did you make the stainless glow plug heat shields? Good idea as the factory ones rust out.
 
x2 on the sharp looking engine.

I powder coated my engine's glow plug shields, heat shields around the pass side injectors, & turbine heat shield w/ high temp silver to match the manifolds done w/ Cermakrome (same as the majority of header coatings).

Wasn't certain if it would tolerate the heat on the turbine shield, but it's held up quite well & eliminates any further corrosion.
 
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