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My 2005 Yukon XL

Well we will see how this unit holds up. I've got to go to another O'Reillys and grab a second one.
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Also may have struck a deal on the parts truck I got the front differential from. Hope to harvest the steering gear and pump from it.
 
DieselSlug said:
Had a code come up yesterday, P0137 bank 1 sensor 2. Not sure if I have ever replaced that O2, will have to inspect closer.
Click to expand...
Yep, I did previously replace it. With supposed Genuine GM. First was replaced in July 2024 and the second was October 2024 (both banks).

Need to get the scanner hooked up and see what the voltage output is before I order another. Of course its a week to get another OEM unit. Was thinking about trying an NTK, which supposedly is NGK and I can get that locally. Strange thing is NTK only has a single part number for up and down streams. That just doesn't sit well with me.

And I got the 2nd fan controller:
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Had a click, no crank, no start. Upon further inspection arcing at the starter solenoid. Cleaned up all connections and douched in Fluid Film. NY is why we can't have nice things.
20251122_115019.jpg

All is well in life again.
Screenshot_20251123_190458_Gallery.jpg

Also swapped out the B1S2 with another delco after reading the live data. Nice relatively flat graph with the new sensor. Will see once the monitors run again.
 
They are in. Got the probes installed in the radiator, also got the trigger side all wired up. Due to snow Friday and rain shutting my progress down I have the ground alligator clipped temporarily to the negative battery terminal. I need to find a good long term ground spot. I have the pot switches turned all the way down right now. Let the tuning begin.
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Something you might think about once you get it all tuned in. snag up one of those cheapo harbor freight water tight boxes, the smaller ones. drill a hole or slot under the gasket were you can get all the wires in and the probes out. this will keep the thermal switches protected from the elements like salt and what not. if there is room to mount it all, you can move your aux fuses, relays and what not in there too for your plow attachment
 
dbrannon79 said:
Something you might think about once you get it all tuned in. snag up one of those cheapo harbor freight water tight boxes, the smaller ones. drill a hole or slot under the gasket were you can get all the wires in and the probes out. this will keep the thermal switches protected from the elements like salt and what not. if there is room to mount it all, you can move your aux fuses, relays and what not in there too for your plow attachment
Click to expand...
Agree for sure. We may change this up. They are calling for 6-plus inches of lake effect Friday so I kinda jumped quick on the install. Thats a good call on the HF boxes.

The plow wiring is actually very "plug and play". The only splices needed are to the turn signals behind the marker lights. Im running out of real estate quick under the hood woth the dual battery and plow setup! I am planning an aux fuse block for ditch lights to aid in plowing at night. Hopefully we get some good plow pics Friday!
 
I have a ground on the left side of My truck.
Seems the headlamps and etc might be connected to that.
I run a 10 gauge ground wire from that to the engine block.
I have read that adding extra grounding wires can be counter productive but I did not want to depend on a flimsy body to battery ground to do the job.
 
Went and looked at the $100 parts truck today. It gets rougher everytime I look at it. Its currently broke into almost 3 pieces, right behind the cab, and at the rear leaf perches. Its a 2006 Chevrolet RC/LB, base model 4wd V8. I would assume a 4.8L, but I have not verified. Its got Fisher push plates and some wiring. Its looks like maybe a MM1 setup as there is no isolation module.

The steering gear and maybe pump is what I really want after my current go around with aftermarket junk. I can't tell 100% if the box is tight as the pitman is disconnected but it seems to move immediately with upper column input. The truck is not Hydroboost, so ultimately concerned with parts compatability. Comparing the part numbers on RA it seems as the gearbox is the same between the 2 trucks. Im on the fence. Really thinking about just splurging after the new year on a red top or blue top gearbox as I just dont want the headache of dealing with this pile.....
 
MrMarty51 said:
I have a ground on the left side of My truck.
Seems the headlamps and etc might be connected to that.
I run a 10 gauge ground wire from that to the engine block.
I have read that adding extra grounding wires can be counter productive but I did not want to depend on a flimsy body to battery ground to do the job.
Click to expand...
I've been adding grounds for decades and never had a problem.

I think the people that have a problem with it have a separate ground issue
 
Went back out to the truck to check how tight the box is with 2 people. Its FAR better than the reman on the Yukon. Also found out the truck is a 4.8L and not a 5.3L. Hope to get it drug home this week or next, its gonna be a fight. No steering and the frame drags behind the cab.
 
Ran the Yukon today doing errands with the plow on. Kinda messing with the tuning of the Hayden fan controllers. Found some issues I need to figure out:

-After some fan cycles I get a P0480, which is fan circuit 1 error. Im guessing its not sensing a voltage drop from fan startup? It does have a soft start built into it. Be nice to know true code set criteria on this, but it has to be somwthing about the external ground triggering.

-Pulled a long hill (1 to 2-miles) at 50-plus MPH. Still got HOT even with the fans on high! Like 233! I am running with the plow as low as possible. I had hoped for up to 220 max.

-I cant crank up the Hayden controllers too much, as the fan will still operate key-off. You need to set it at a point where heat soak won't raise the temp to trigger and turn the fan on during shutdown and your walking away risking a dead battery. I would have assumed this circuit would be keyed in some manner?

Overall, I am disappointed right now. I know tons of these trucks has plows way back when. How did people not overheat all the time?!

I am not sure if any of these issues can be solved without big changes. I didnt think the computer would be that "smart" to recognize any changes in the circuitry, nor it being able to operate outside of keyed power.
 
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