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multi-function switch 00 k3500

chevyCowboy

I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
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Location
Springfield Nebraska
i have been having some odd turn signal issues and the hazard lights have never worked on my 00 k3500 6.5td. So i decided to replace the multi-function switch in hopes that it would solve all my issues, turns out it made more. I got the switch out and figured out how to get the wires out of what the manuals call the steering column bulk head and then installed the new one. let me explain the issues

before changing switch
the horn didn't work
The right front turn signal was lighting the wrong element in the bulb (the one for marker)
The right turn indicator light on the dash was on all the time if marker lights where on and flashed when right turn was activated
Right turn flashed fast as if there was a bad bulb
hazards wont turn on
no right park light but side marker works

after changing switch
truck wont start
volt gauge shows that batteries have 0 charge. but head lights turn on and are full brightness
no turn signals work
hazards work
still no right side park light but marker works

Some one any one have an idea
Thanks its been a while since i posted but havent had any troubles
 
Test before buying parts but my thought isissues
On the right turn signal part - you have a wrong bulb, installed wrong, crossed wires in harness possible from a repair, you could have dropped the ground and one circuit is picking it up through the other one.

There is some history of the hazard light switch causing issue- usually turning it on/off about a half dozen times reveals hiccups as the indicator to replace it.

I agree possibly faulty ignition switch.

find the clicking relay, test before buying unless you want a spare around- my bet is it is good and it’s freaking out from outside errors.
 
Test before buying parts but my thought isissues
On the right turn signal part - you have a wrong bulb, installed wrong, crossed wires in harness possible from a repair, you could have dropped the ground and one circuit is picking it up through the other one.

There is some history of the hazard light switch causing issue- usually turning it on/off about a half dozen times reveals hiccups as the indicator to replace it.

I agree possibly faulty ignition switch.

find the clicking relay, test before buying unless you want a spare around- my bet is it is good and it’s freaking out from outside errors.
Ya sounds like I need to get the power probe out and do some investigating.
I'm wondering now if I didn't mess up the ignition switch. I think I had the key on accidentally when I plugged the bulk head connector in could have sorted something out there, causing the no start.


But I'm thinking you might be on to something with the bulbs or something back feeding. I didn't change anything recently but I remember having an odd issue like this on a truck a long time ago now that you mention it. I think I ended up changing the sockets out
 
So the no start issue was from the 40amp crank fuse being blown. I'm guessing that happened when I had the key on while plugging in the bulk connector.

The other problem I traced down to a bad ground. finally after flipping through allot of pages in my factory manuals I discovered that the right side and horn are on a separate ground from the left side. It is located next to the battery and air cleaner. Cleaned it up and everything works as it should again. It's seems to always be the grounds with these trucks
 
As with any wehicle, if the lamps and lights is doing weird stuff, check the grounds and clean them up even if they look okay. then, after all of that, if some issues have survived, check the bulbs filaments, a broken filament can arc across and cause extra bulbs to light up when they aint suppose to.
Good to know You got it all sorted out.
 
It isn’t just that truck. It is the number one issue of electrical in all vehicles.

The known fix is to include the ground wiring in the entire harness back to the battery but that requires money invested at the factory. the problems don’t occur until way out of warranty, so it doesn’t make sense to build them that way.

Hmmwvs / Hummers for instance only have 1 ground junction point in the cab (which is a known point of issue) because the body is aluminum and the frame is steel, and frame is bolted together so it doesn’t make good electric connection from battery out. But the 6.2/6.5 engines have the same grounding issues they had in the trucks.

Earlier this year my sister’s Kia burned up an electrical connector to the blower motor from poor ground, and my wife’s Toyota smoked headlight because of bad ground. When I was a Mac Tools guy, the numbers from mechanical shop polls showed 20% of all repairs, were electrical/ electronic regardless of manufacturer.
 
It isn’t just that truck. It is the number one issue of electrical in all vehicles.

The known fix is to include the ground wiring in the entire harness back to the battery but that requires money invested at the factory. the problems don’t occur until way out of warranty, so it doesn’t make sense to build them that way.

Hmmwvs / Hummers for instance only have 1 ground junction point in the cab (which is a known point of issue) because the body is aluminum and the frame is steel, and frame is bolted together so it doesn’t make good electric connection from battery out. But the 6.2/6.5 engines have the same grounding issues they had in the trucks.

Earlier this year my sister’s Kia burned up an electrical connector to the blower motor from poor ground, and my wife’s Toyota smoked headlight because of bad ground. When I was a Mac Tools guy, the numbers from mechanical shop polls showed 20% of all repairs, were electrical/ electronic regardless of manufacturer.
MAKES me wonder what percentage of those was a bad grounding issue ?
 
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