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Motorkote?

db9938

stick'n it to the man
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Has anyone else heard/tried this?

I have listened to the ATN radio show on 700WLW/XM 173, and the OTR drivers that call in swear by it. I know what most folks say about oil additives, "snake oil."
But, I found it on the shelf at Meijers, and thought I would give it a try. Thirty bucks, and I could use it with the wife's van and my truck.

We left the dealership, after getting the wife's van looked at and oil change, and drove about 20 miles to the nearest Meijers. I put in half of the suggested amount, 6 ounces, and drove home, about 30 miles.

The overhead console read 12.2 MPG before we left for the day, and did not change until we left Meijers. To my surprise it was 13.4 MPG when we got home.

Now I know that on boards MPG calculators are notoriously off, but usually they are consistently off.

The way I look at I have to at least recoup $15 of gas savings to pay for half of it. By using the console numbers, and known fuel tank size theoretically she could save 2 gallons, or get 28.8 more miles per tank full.

After adding it to both vehicles, I did notice that the engine seemed to smooth out a bit, and quiet down.

We will see, the trucks DIC was showing 14.6 MPG, and tonight I did not get to go out of town to get a good idea of whether or not it will improve. I will keep you updated.

Here's the website, if you are interested: http://www.motorkote.com/
 
Sorry, well I can't say that I have seen any appreciable difference. DIC says the same, but that could be the short drive I have to work and home, 16 miles round trip.

But the truck is quieter, for whatever that is worth.
 
I have not seen a specific analysis of this product.

Generally oil "Improvement Additives" fall into 3 categories.

1. Viscosity improvers- Products like STP Oil Treatment, Motor Honey, etc. They contain long chain hydrocarbons that raise the kinematic viscosity of the lubricant, thereby temporarily reducing blowby and smoking. They also tend to quiet a loud engine with slop in the valvetrain. A mechanic in a bottle.

2. Chlorinated additives- Products like Dura-Lube, Militec, Prolong, etc. These additives have high concentrations of chlorine and can create hydrochloric acid in internal combustion engines, rapidly reducing the TBN (Total Base Number) of your engine oil which can affect non-metallic surfaces and ultimately metal surfaces, causing internal corrosion, pitting, etc. Most use an extremely cheap Group I base stock carrier oil with a high paraffin content, and can significantly contribute to deposit formation. They use Chlorides because they are slippery, anyone ever seen Chlorox used in a burnout pit?

3. Solid Film or Colloidal additives- Products such as Slick 50, T-Plus, Restore, etc. contain teflon/ptfe, molybdenum, or graphite. These add solids to the oil system, again usually with a cheap low quality Group I base stock carrier oil, which adhere to metal surfaces, theoretically inducing a burnishing process (you've seen real burnishing causing the wear lines on the race of a wheelbearing after use, it deforms the surface of the metal due to pressure and sliding action). Unfortunately, these solids stick to each other as much as anything else, forming larger solids, clogging filters, and possibly blocking oil galleries.
Solids may also dam up around bearings, reducing oil flow. Teflon/PTFE can react with some metals such as aluminum and magnesium at high temperature, causing ugliness in turbo applications.


I'm not familiar with this product, but I have seen some others.
 
I am not sure what category it would fall into. The claim is that it has no solids, and it presents itself as a clear, slightly less viscous than 15-40w, liquid. That said, I think it would rule out #1 as well, so that leaves #2. Which is interesting in the fact that the comparison demonstrations on their website do not have of the ones you have listed in #2.
 
Took a small trip tonight.

Sorry, I don't have a baseline to compare it to, but here are the known s:

Truck: 2005 GMC CC

Modifications away from factory: Retrax tonneau, EGR plate, linex
Route taken: relatively flat, 80-85% 55 mph or higher state routes (from 45177 to 45155)
Currently:
27637.7 miles
1938.5 gallons used

Avg mileage based on these numbers= 14.257

tonights numbers, based on hand calculation:
Begining miles 27560.5
Ending miles 27637.7

Total miles driven 77.2

fuel difference at end of run 3.884 gallons

for an average fuel millage of 19.876

From what I remember on other times that I have hand calculated millage, this doesn't really deviate from those numbers, or prior to the use of the product.
 
Here is an update, I just filled up:

All averages are hand calculated.

27861.5 miles
27637.7 miles

difference: 223.8

Fuel purchased: 22.282

AVG. MPG =10.04

VERDICT, I think it's self explanatory.
 
next run:

ending miles:28129.7
difference:268.2
gallons purchased:21.522

AVG MPG=12.46

Verdict- improving, but far from advertised
 
Next run:

ending miles: 28404.6
difference:274.9
Gallons purchased:15.784

AVG MPG=17.41

Hmmmm, could this be the switch from #1(winter blend) to #2(summer blend)?
 
Well, I kind was thinking that. But I don't know what else would explain the sudden jump in MPG's. I haven't changed the route I take to work, or my driving habits.
 
OK, I think something is up.....

ending miles:28593.6
difference : 189 miles
gallons purchased:22.101

AVG MPG=8.55

No towing....
No extensive idling, yes I use the remote starter occasionally, but usually as I walk out the door towards the parking lot....

I think that I need my right foot to go on a diet for awhile.
 
OK, I think something is up.....

ending miles:28593.6
difference : 189 miles
gallons purchased:22.101

AVG MPG=8.55

No towing....
No extensive idling, yes I use the remote starter occasionally, but usually as I walk out the door towards the parking lot....

I think that I need my right foot to go on a diet for awhile.
:eek: Holy Shit! :eek:
Something ain't right...
 
It's probably a bad calibration on a different fuel pump. If you are buying fuel at the same place all of the time, you'd better quit smoking tires!
 
It's probably a bad calibration on a different fuel pump. If you are buying fuel at the same place all of the time, you'd better quit smoking tires!

Yep, same place, Kroger's. Did the sniff test to the oil, nothing out of the ordinary.

No noticed loss in performance, strange knocking sounds. Same daily commute.

I guess the next thing is to check the air filter. If that ain't it, and there is another repeat performance, then I'm going to the dealer.


on edit: I suppose one explanation could be that I may be accidentally hitting the remote start. I don't know.
 
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