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More holes in front bumper?

treegump

Romans 3:22-24
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Location
Martinsville, IN
I ripped off an aftermarket back-up lamp on a snow bank on my back bumper, so I'm considering cutting 2 holes in back bumper for those lights. After that, I'm considering on putting my fog lamps in my front bumper - maybe about 1.5' from the ends... (they won't be as low as I'd like, but they'd be more protected).

Question though - are the additional holes going to hurt or help or make no difference in the cooling ability that they bumper provides for the engine? Could I put fins behind the lights to move the air towards the factory holes?
 
I've seen guys use the diesel bumper on their gasser's just to put lights in them. But on our trucks, their there for a reason. You'd be better off, putting a lower air dam on, and mounting the fog/driving lamps under the bumper in the cut out's on the lower air deflector.
 
I've seen guys use the diesel bumper on their gasser's just to put lights in them. But on our trucks, their there for a reason. You'd be better off, putting a lower air dam on, and mounting the fog/driving lamps under the bumper in the cut out's on the lower air deflector.

I don't want to put my fog lamps in the 2 air-flow holes...I want to cut 2 ADDITIONAL holes in the front bumper for the lights. I was just wondering if there'd be any difference of flow of air because of it.

After all - the main reason I want to put the lights in the bumper is to get my ground clearance back, w/o worrying about tearing off my lights. I mean, we don't have a ton of clearance to start off with - so if I add an air deflector, I'm risk breaking that too, or losing ground clearance because of it.
 
I would not see any problem, as you are not restricting or diverting air away from intended intake areas. Nor would there be any reason to channel air to the radiator as your placement will not affect air pressure or flow near the center of the truck.

it sounds like everything you want to do is outside the radiator area, so no bubbles, no troubles. :)
 
OPk I see now,, yeah you'll be fine, make the holes a 1/4 inch around the lights bigger, put something on the bare metal, where the cuts are, and go for it! pics when you done would be cool.!!!!! You'll have to locate them carefully as the outer brackets will be in the way some. Hold them up in there where they'll clear brackets and such, mark the area, and then pull the bumper off and mount them up!
 
After riping one of my fog lights off today (damn snow banks) I like your idea. my question would be is there any problem with taking away strength from the bumper that might fail a safty inspection? Id love to do this but if it wolnt pass PA inspection then its not worth my time.

Justin
 
Justin,

I don't have a PA inspection license, but the code reads like this:

75 Pa.C.S. § 175.209. Chassis.

(a) Condition of chassis. All items of a chassis shall be in safe operating condition as described in this subchapter and Subchapters E—H and J.

(b) Bumpers. A vehicle specified under this subchapter shall be equipped with front and rear bumpers securely attached to the chassis, except when the original body configuration provided by a recognized manufacturer did not include bumpers in the design of the vehicle.

(1) Some part of the horizontal bumper of a passenger vehicle and all street rods shall fall within 12—20 inches above ground level.

(2) Some part of the horizontal bumper of a truck shall fall within 16—30 inches above ground level.

(c) Scrub line. A vehicle specified under this subchapter shall meet the minimum scrub line requirements. See Chart 5 (relating to scrub line).

(1) A scrub line is an imaginary surface created if lines were drawn from the bottom of the wheel rim on one side to the bottom of the tire on the other side. When lines are drawn from both sides, an ‘‘X’’ under the vehicle suspension is created. A suspension or chassis component may not be below the top portion of this imaginary ‘‘X.’’

(2) Only exhaust systems and sheet metal may extend below the scrub line.


--Paul
 
another possible place would be in the front skid plate, but then there's the issue of protecting the front of the light, and mounting it, and got ask youself if you really want your lights THAT close to the road. I think I'll stick to the bumper.

Also, if you're worried about integrity...you could bolt or weld a plate beside the light inside the bumper - strengthening that part of the bumper. But if the hole is only 4" by 6" or something like that...I don't think it'll be hurting it too much.
 
Go have a look at LMC Truck's website. They have a lot of custom bumpers with additional lights, it may give you some ideas of what you want to do.
 
I dont have any concerns about strength my only concern is with the truck passing PA safty inspection. from what the code says it looks like it should be fine so this weekend if we dont get any more snow I will have to look at it and see where some holes could be made.

Justin
 
Only other note on PA inspection- they lights must work and be wired so they only go on with the low beams and automatically turn off when high beams go on. Many inspection mechanics don't check this, but if you get one that's "by the book" they'll fail you. I knew a PA inspection mechanic that failed a 15 passenger van because one of the seatbelts in the seat all the way in the back didn't latch!

§ 175.190. Inspection procedure.

(5) Check the lamps and lenses and reject if one or more of the following apply:

(i) An exterior bulb or sealed beam, if originally equipped or installed, fails to light properly, except ornamental lights.

(ii) The turn signal lamps do not flash between 60—120 flashes per minute.

(iii) The turn signal lamps do not properly indicate the right or left when so switched.

(iv) The lamp shows a color contrary to Tables IV or V (relating to required motor vehicle lighting equipment; and location of required equipment), as applicable.

(v) The lamp or filament indicated at switch position does not light when the correct switch indicates the lamp should be on.

(vi) The lamp has a missing or broken lens.

(vii) A required lamp is missing.

(viii) Auxiliary equipment is placed on, in or in front of any lamp.

(ix) The fog lamps operate with high beams of headlamps.

(x) Auxiliary driving lamps operate with the low beam of standard headlamp system or alone.
 
Only other note on PA inspection- they lights must work and be wired so they only go on with the low beams and automatically turn off when high beams go on.

(ix) The fog lamps operate with high beams of headlamps.

(x) Auxiliary driving lamps operate with the low beam of standard headlamp system or alone.

Well, you could wire the switch into the low beam wire, so that the only time you could turn them on was when the low beams were on. That ought to take care of that, right?
 
yeah I'd take the low beam wire and put a relay on it, power the relay from the battery, and send other post of relay to the new lights, that way theres no extra load on the stock headlamps. Same way the all on headlamp set up is.
 
FWIW I have lights in my bumper holes and it didnt chagne anything temp wise and I tow realy heavy. 4 draft horses in a living quarters
 
FWIW I have lights in my bumper holes and it didnt chagne anything temp wise and I tow realy heavy. 4 draft horses in a living quarters

I saw a tahoe with fog lamps filling almost all of the holes up front, and I guess my concern is - because heating is such a concern, how is that not affecting your cooling any? Do you have a pretty much stock cooling system, or do you have any upgrades?
 
Bone stock everything other then turbo master on a GM4, i did blow a head gasket but i was towing a empty hay wagon so at the time i dont think heat was a factor. 210k when it blew
 
Bone stock everything other then turbo master on a GM4, i did blow a head gasket but i was towing a empty hay wagon so at the time i dont think heat was a factor. 210k when it blew

what's you're exhaust like? Does no cat and/or muffler help diminish heat buildup?
 
aftermarket 3inch down pipe to 4inch to 5inch stack. no muffler or cat :eek:
 
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