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Merchant Auto Motor Mounts (Brake Related)

Mad Maxx

Mad Maxx

See, what had happened was...
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Just got these and the Trans Cooler Line Upgrade Installed on my Truck Today.

After the Install, I Immediately Noticed that the Brake Pedal is ALOT more Firm, has a more Positive Feel, and isn't as Mushy as it was Before the Install.

No Brake Lines were Pinched or Bumped during the Install.

Does it even make Sense that one of these Items could have an Effect on the Brakes?
 
Last edited:
Yea, it's really Weird.

But the Pedal Feels 100% Better.

I'm gonna Dig into it more Tomorrow and See if I can Find something that isn't "Right". But I Looked real Quick, and know that no Brake Lines were Pinched during the Install. None of the Calipers are Seized either.
 
Mad Maxx said:
Yea, it's really Weird.

But the Pedal Feels 100% Better.

I'm gonna Dig into it more Tomorrow and See if I can Find something that isn't "Right". But I Looked real Quick, and know that no Brake Lines were Pinched during the Install. None of the Calipers are Seized
either.
Click to expand...


If there is a pinched brake line it would have been pinched with out any pressure on it so it would not be seized. If you do have a pinched one its not getting any fluid. With no mechanical connection between the upgrades and the brakes I would also be looking for something not being right.
 
Ok, so now if it was the Brakes, and a Line was Pinched, the Truck would Pull to the Opposite Side of the Problem Side, right? So if the Front Right Caliper Line was Pinched, the Truck would Pull to the Left, right?

If that's the Case, I'm pretty sure it's not a Line, because I Checked that on the Test Drive, and no matter how Hard I get On the Brakes, the Truck keeps Tracking 100% Straight.
 
I will agree with the pull right/left thing. There are four brake lines on top of the frame where the rear of the A arm connects if you look in from the wheel well. If it is a rear line you my not feel it. To dark to crawl under to look for anything more. If you don't see anything obvious I would crack each bleeder and confirm you can get fluid to run out.
 
Yep, I Saw the Bundle of Brake Lines on the Driver Side Frame Rail. Nothing was Crushed or Looked like it was Rubbed too Hard against.

I'll Dig In Tomorrow and See if I Find anything. I don't Think I will though.

I'm not Complaining, I Like the Feel and how Snappy the Brakes are now.
 
Assuming the front wheels were off, my $$ says that one or both calipers was binding on the slide pins not allowing it to float. You moved and bumped enough stuff around which freed them up to move again.

My brakes always felt 150% better once I took that stuff apart, lubed it and put it back together. They get worse progressively so you don't really notice it until you're standing on the pedal and it only slows down.
 
I have New Slide Bolts and Rubber Pieces to Install too. I've had a Bad Caliper Rattle for a Few Years now, and got the Parts to do all 4 Brakes.

But I just had New Calipers, Pads, and my Rotors Cut before Summer.
 
Ok, just Bled the Brakes. They all Work. Fluid comes Out of all Bleeders, Pedal Pressure and Feel is the same for all 4 Brakes.

Went for a Ride after, and the Brakes are still nice and Grabby. So much so, if you get on them enough, your Chest is In the Steering Wheel. They are almost as Grabby as the Brembo Big Brakes that came Stock on my Volvo R.

Now...I don't even know why I did it, but with the Engine Idling, and my Door Open, I was Pumping the Brakes to see how the Pressure was. When I Push On the Pedal and Hold it, then Engine Idle Sound takes on a Deeper Tone. Kinda like it would when you put a Slight Load On the Engine.

So now that has me Thinking that somehow, these Motor Mounts have Improved the Brakes.

Ideas?
 
Maybe the mounts raised the level of the motor a little, with the brake booster on the firewall, making a better direct connection for the brake lines to the wheels? Just thinking out loud.
 
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